NO!!! He wired two hots to the 30A plug, whereas it should have a hot and a neutral. When he removes the double 30A breaker, he also has to connect one of the two wires to the neutral bar on the load center.but if he changes out the double 30 breaker and installs a single pole 30 amp, is that all that's required?
The converter was made by Progressive Dynamics. I contacted them, it's a series 6300A, model 6332. They're shipping a new one, it'll be here Wednesday. By the time I had someone fool with it, get the required parts, etc. honestly I figured it'd be cheaper in the long run to simply replace it. The electrician pulled the converter today and tested the board etc. - there were a number of problems with blown caps, blown fuses, blown resistors, etc. etc. so IMHO, it just made sense to replace it. I do have the new sgl. pole 30 amp breaker here, and he'll wire that as 120v 30 amp after we get the new converter back in. Once we get everything back together, I'll check the systems as far as operation, but as I said, the TV wasn't plugged in, the refrig. was set to off, etc. The microwave I'm not sure about, but as someone else mentioned, there should be an in-line fuse if it doesn't work. All I'm hoping is that with everything that "blew", there were enough internal protections so that nothing else got messed up. Finally, this was actually more my fault than the electricans, so I'm willing to eat the cost. Had this happened at an RV repair facility, I'd be a lot more PO'ed about it (I'm more PO'ed at myself right now, truth be known). To be honest, I had intended on replacing the microwave anyway, it was the original one, and didn't even have a turn-table...I can pick one up at Sears for about $50. I guess what surprised me out of all of this is that the plug configuration will plug into a 240v dryer receptacle, it's the same configuration. Honestly, that was my mistake, and I'm not sure if there's anything on the exterior box/receptacle that indicates it's for a 30amp 110v, however, I will look at it when we do the replacement and re-wiring.Tony_Alberta said:What make and model of converter? Depending on age of RV folks here may have some suggestions on units that do proper charging.
jimmie123 said:I guess what surprised me out of all of this is that the plug configuration will plug into a 240v dryer receptacle, it's the same configuration. Honestly, that was my mistake, and I'm not sure if there's anything on the exterior box/receptacle that indicates it's for a 30amp 110v, however, I will look at it when we do the replacement and re-wiring.
I guess what surprised me out of all of this is that the plug configuration will plug into a 240v dryer receptacle, it's the same configuration.
Lou Schneider said:No, it won't. The TT-30 120 volt RV socket has a round ground pin. The NEMA 10-30 240 volt dryer socket has a L - shaped ground pin. The plug for one socket won't fit into the other, by design.
The outlet should have the NEMA number (TT-30 or RV-30), voltage and current molded into the plastic. Usually it's on the back side - you probably won't see any markings on the front.
seilerbird said:If anyone is to blame it is the stupid RV manufacturers for using a non-standard 30 amp 110 volt receptacle and plug. They should have used a 30 amp 220 volt standard receptacle and plug since day one. Then there would never be a problem.
They should have used a 30 amp 220 volt standard receptacle and plug since day one.
People do make mistakes, even people that are licensed in their trade. At least it sounds like they're trying to work together to solve the issues and not just blaming each other for the mistake. If they're neighbors, and very possibly friends, that may be more important than whose at fault.
220 is composed of two 110 volt legs. It would work just fine. You don't have to have 220 appliances to use a 220 service. 50 amp is 220 and it works just fine.Ned said:I don't know of any 220V RV appliances, so how would that work?
seilerbird said:220 is composed of two 110 volt legs. It would work just fine. You don't have to have 220 appliances to use a 220 service. 50 amp is 220 and it works just fine.
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-071-00278-000-Flush-Mount-Receptacle/dp/B00009W3A9/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1313936915&sr=1-10Ned said:A 220V 30A outlet has no neutral thus no 110V legs, just one 220V, so it won't work. A 50A RV outlet has 2 120VAC hot legs and a neutral. No wonder electricians get it wrong, they don't understand anything about RV wiring.
So why must you be so rude and insult me?Ned said:You did say "a 30 amp 220 volt standard receptacle" which most people, including most electricians, would understand to be a 220V dryer or welder outlet with no neutral. That's what got the OP in trouble originally.
The reason they don't wire RVs with those is the cost is greater, and an RV with that only needs 30A doesn't need 2 legs of 30A, just one. If the RV needs more power, then it's wired for 50A with 2 legs.
And as I've said before, it's not always all about you.
seilerbird said:So why must you be so rude and insult me?
And as I've said before, it's not always all about you.
JayT said:Forum Staff Member..... Hmmm
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