Switching out low drain points

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ngranneman

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Feb 8, 2019
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I'm going to be switching out low drain points and curious on peoples thoughts on different options with replacing with a shut-off valve. Do Watts quick-connect, Sharkbite, or going with old style crimping and going straight down vs angled.
 

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Joezeppy

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Upstate NY - Kuyahoora Valley
I did this exact mod last spring. Got sick of the messing with the caps while winterizing. I used SharkBite straight fittings with a 1/4 turn valve. Angled would work, too. My drains hung down quite a bit so I was able to just cut off the existing fittings and replace them.
 

Gary RV_Wizard

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Sort of depends on what you now have, doesn't it?  I'm guessing you have no valves now, maybe just screw on caps for Pex tubing?  There are screw in valves in various thread sizes that could replace the caps.  Or cut off the existing fitting and use any brand of push-to-fit fitting (Sharkbite is just one brand), or a compression type fitting. They all work, and work well.

The main consideration is the degree of exposure to external damage. LP drains are often below the belly pan and exposed to road damage, so you want a sturdy fitting and one that doesb't protrude too far.
 

ngranneman

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Feb 8, 2019
Posts
60
If I was to use existing connection and twist on a siphon, all I can find is brass. Do you thing brass twisting on plastic will work? Brass one also doesn't have a washer inside like the current stopper end one does


Gary RV_Wizard said:
Sort of depends on what you now have, doesn't it?  I'm guessing you have no valves now, maybe just screw on caps for Pex tubing?  There are screw in valves in various thread sizes that could replace the caps.  Or cut off the existing fitting and use any brand of push-to-fit fitting (Sharkbite is just one brand), or a compression type fitting. They all work, and work well.

The main consideration is the degree of exposure to external damage. LP drains are often below the belly pan and exposed to road damage, so you want a sturdy fitting and one that doesb't protrude too far.
 

Gary RV_Wizard

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Joined
Feb 2, 2005
Posts
76,141
Location
West Palm Beach, FL
Threaded fittings typically don't use washers. 

The problem with brass threaded into plastic is the different expansion rates. In my experience, a male brass fitting will expand enough to crack a plastic female, but a brass female screwed over a plastic male holds up fine (compression of the plastic rather than expansion).  Obviously plastic threaded fitting would be a better choice. They make those, but may not be found in local hardware stores. Plumbing supplies should have them.

https://www.industrialspec.com/shop/miniature-valves/plastic-ball-valves/bvsa-series-right-angle-ball-valve.html

If there is enough tube below the belly pan, cutting off the old one and slipping on a push-fit or compression type valve is simple and effective.  Whatever works easily in your situation.
 

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