To GFCI or not to GFCI

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PickyBiker

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Joined
May 5, 2022
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Tyler, TX
I want to install a 30 amp RV outlet box on my property. All I can find is a box with just a 30 Amp outlet, a box with a 30 amp outlet and a non-GFCI 30 Amp beaker, or one with a 30 amp outlet, and a 20 amp outlet with a 20 amp GFCI.

I am rather surprised that there doesn't seem to be a box with both a 30 amp outlet and a GFCI 30 amp breaker.

What does electrical code require for RV 30 Amp outlets?
 
PickyBiker said:
I want to install a 30 amp RV outlet box on my property. All I can find is a box with just a 30 Amp outlet, a box with a 30 amp outlet and a non-GFCI 30 Amp beaker, or one with a 30 amp outlet, and a 20 amp outlet with a 20 amp GFCI.

I am rather surprised that there doesn't seem to be a box with both a 30 amp outlet and a GFCI 30 amp breaker.

What does electrical code require for RV 30 Amp outlets?
Click to expand...
The NEC does not require a 30 amp GFCI for RV use, only for the 15/20 amp utility outlet. 30 and 50 amp RV outlets feed a sub-panel in the RV where individual branch circuits may require a GFCI depending on their usage.
 
Last edited:
NY_Dutch said:
The NEC does not require a 30 amp GFCI for RV use, only for the 15/20 amp utility outlet. 30 and 50 amp RV outlets feed a sub-panel in the RV where individual branch circuits may require a GFCI depending on their usage.
Click to expand...
Thank you.
 
Just a thought for the future, you may want to go to a 50 amp. should you ever upgrade to a bigger unit. You could still use either one with a pigtail. Just with 30 amp. you won't be able to run everything on a unit requiring 50 amp.

Wi1dBi11
 
If budget constraints are a problem for the extra cost of a 50a outlet due to the larger & more expensive wire needed as well as the panel, you could also use an adapter to connect a 50a RV to the 30a outlet if you should ever get one. We used a 30a outlet at our house for our 50a RV for years since it can supply plenty of power to operate both air conditioners as long as the microwave or electric water heater element were not in use at the same time. I did that because our house already was near the 200a service limit of the house, which is common to most homes. Considering making the new outlet a 50a one is certainly valid, but is not of critical importance.
 
Many RV's do not play nice with GFCI outlets or breakers. Assorted theories as to why..and I have one of my own I won't bore you with. But many RV's do not play nice with GFCI outlets.
If you feel you must.. Get the Box with the standard 30 amp breaker, and get a 30 amp GFCI. it's easy to swap 'em out.
 
NY_Dutch said:
One potential problem with daisy chaining GFCI's on a single circuit is the potential for inadvertent tripping when the first GFCI self-tests, tripping the second one at power up.
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I don't see pressing a button every time you have AC to be a big deal.

But I also often find the newer more sensitive GFCI's to be too sensitive when the slight unbalance is often normal. Such as with electric motorcycles. Experienced Zero cycle riders (like me) who sometimes charge on GFI with 120 VAC defeat the GFI by carrying an adapter that will not let the bike be grounded to the outlet. The unbalance in Zeros is because one side of the line has a different impedance to ground inside the bike's power supply. Why? I have no idea, I just know it is there. So all is okay as long as the bike frame is not connected to the ground on the 3 pin GFCI outlet, so the outlet cannot see the imbalance to ground on the bike.

IOW, I am safer without GFI as then I can at least ground the bike to the outlet.

-Don- Tom's Place, CA
 
DonTom said:
I would like to be bored with your theory.

-Don- Tom's Place, CA
Click to expand...
Has to do with capacitive coupling between the black and green wires.
IF you understand what a capacitor is. you understand why the wires (hundreds of feet of wire) in an RV can act like a capacitor and ..... The black is coupled to the green (So is the white but for some reason some GFCI's can't figure this out)

If you plug, say a 100 foot length of extension cord in via a 3-2 wire adapter so you "lift" the ground lead.. and use a very senistive volt meter to measure hot or neutral to ground... 60 volts.
 
DonTom said:
I don't see pressing a button every time you have AC to be a big deal.

But I also often find the newer more sensitive GFCI's to be too sensitive when the slight unbalance is often normal. Such as with electric motorcycles. Experienced Zero cycle riders (like me) who sometimes charge on GFI with 120 VAC defeat the GFI by carrying an adapter that will not let the bike be grounded to the outlet. The unbalance in Zeros is because one side of the line has a different impedance to ground inside the bike's power supply. Why? I have no idea, I just know it is there. So all is okay as long as the bike frame is not connected to the ground on the 3 pin GFCI outlet, so the outlet cannot see the imbalance to ground on the bike.

IOW, I am safer without GFI as then I can at least ground the bike to the outlet.

-Don- Tom's Place, CA
Click to expand...
It's not a big issue if you realize what happened. The point though, is that it's unnecessary and provides little if any additional protection.
 
My 30A breaker has a GFCI. Had it put in about 2.5 years ago and haven't had any problems with it.
 

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