used motorhomes
- Thread starter jameshugh
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
thelazyl
Well-known member
I think you will find a lot of good information on this site. I am glad to share what I learned since buying our first RV 4 months ago.
The 2 sites below are good ways to browse motorhomes. the second one has actual sales prices.
https://www.rvtrader.com/
https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/
I think you will find many options in your price range. Motorhomes depreciate rapidly for the first 5 - 10 years, and initial quality of new motorhomes is generally poor. That is why we looked for used motorhomes, in floorplans we like, and were very well cared for.
I hope this helps and good luck
The 2 sites below are good ways to browse motorhomes. the second one has actual sales prices.
https://www.rvtrader.com/
https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/
I think you will find many options in your price range. Motorhomes depreciate rapidly for the first 5 - 10 years, and initial quality of new motorhomes is generally poor. That is why we looked for used motorhomes, in floorplans we like, and were very well cared for.
I hope this helps and good luck
Isaac-1
Well-known member
Condition is everything when it comes to an RV of any type or age, here are a few issues you need to be aware of:
1, Rot is the primary killer of motorhomes, this usually occurs due to water intrusion from the roof, sealant around the roof penetrations (vents, end caps, etc.), as well as around window frames (commonly around the above cab bunk windows on class C's). Rot is often far more extensive than it appears at first sign, and far more expensive to repair than most people think.
2, Cosmetics may matter on some older coaches, more and more commercial RV parks are implementing a 10 year old rule, meaning coaches over 10 years old are not allowed, or must submit photos proving they are in good condition. Enforcement of these rules are often spotty, as the real purpose is to keep junky looking RV's that may break down and be stranded at any moment out of the rv parks. Many parks also only apply these rules to longer term residents staying a week or more, personally I have not ran into the issue, but others have.
3, There are a lot of rubber components on an RV that will age out somewhere in the 10-15 year age range, this includes not only tires (which most people suggest should be changed every 7 years regardless of wear level), but also belts, hoses, and numerous suspension and steering bushings. Here it helps to buy a coach that has been well maintained, and where the previous owner has already done some / most of this potentially differed maintenance.
4, Inspect, Inspect, Inspect, buying a used RV is not like buying a used car, a professional detailed RV inspection on a 30 ft class C should take on the order of 5-6 hours to complete, and cost somewhere around $600-700, depending on the specific details, location, etc. this does not include a detailed inspection of the engine and power train which should be done by a mechanic familiar with this specific brand of chassis. Buying an RV is much more like buying a house, except in this case it is the house, with all of the appliances, that have spent their life in harsh conditions, often without climate control running, and being subject to a rolling earthquake every time they are moved.
1, Rot is the primary killer of motorhomes, this usually occurs due to water intrusion from the roof, sealant around the roof penetrations (vents, end caps, etc.), as well as around window frames (commonly around the above cab bunk windows on class C's). Rot is often far more extensive than it appears at first sign, and far more expensive to repair than most people think.
2, Cosmetics may matter on some older coaches, more and more commercial RV parks are implementing a 10 year old rule, meaning coaches over 10 years old are not allowed, or must submit photos proving they are in good condition. Enforcement of these rules are often spotty, as the real purpose is to keep junky looking RV's that may break down and be stranded at any moment out of the rv parks. Many parks also only apply these rules to longer term residents staying a week or more, personally I have not ran into the issue, but others have.
3, There are a lot of rubber components on an RV that will age out somewhere in the 10-15 year age range, this includes not only tires (which most people suggest should be changed every 7 years regardless of wear level), but also belts, hoses, and numerous suspension and steering bushings. Here it helps to buy a coach that has been well maintained, and where the previous owner has already done some / most of this potentially differed maintenance.
4, Inspect, Inspect, Inspect, buying a used RV is not like buying a used car, a professional detailed RV inspection on a 30 ft class C should take on the order of 5-6 hours to complete, and cost somewhere around $600-700, depending on the specific details, location, etc. this does not include a detailed inspection of the engine and power train which should be done by a mechanic familiar with this specific brand of chassis. Buying an RV is much more like buying a house, except in this case it is the house, with all of the appliances, that have spent their life in harsh conditions, often without climate control running, and being subject to a rolling earthquake every time they are moved.
Gizmo100
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2018
- Posts
- 3,065
jameshugh said:
We tend to pop in and out....
Welcome to the forum James....This isn't a live chat type board...You post your question then as members log in they will try to help.
And on that note you will find lot's of opinions as to your question regarding the right RV for you.
Look at the links provided to get some ideas as to what's best for you.. Your focus should be on floor plans that work best for your needs. Also how you plan to use the RV...Weekend getaway...Long road trips....Full time RV'er.
After looking at prices and what's available....if your still interested, Then check into renting a class C for a week to see if it's something you really want.
And of course feel free to post questions as needed....
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Brand name is not so important, though the ones with a higher original MSRP will be better built in some ways (mostly hidden). What's important is condition and a floor plans that suits your needs (See Isaac's message). I would lean toward the mid-price tier models from Winnebago/Itasca, Forest River and Jayco, but would not rule out any of the contenders.
There should be plenty to choose from in your size & price range, so take your time and shop a lot, both locally and online. Don't let a sales guy whip you into a frenzy either - if you miss out on one there will be others coming along. And don't fall for the "today only" price spiel - it's pure BS.
There should be plenty to choose from in your size & price range, so take your time and shop a lot, both locally and online. Don't let a sales guy whip you into a frenzy either - if you miss out on one there will be others coming along. And don't fall for the "today only" price spiel - it's pure BS.
Isaac-1
Well-known member
I tend to agree with Gary, original MSRP is a good ballpark idea of build quality, though there are some caveats , certain models have known potential issues, I will use the Alfa See Ya class A's as an example, over all these were fairly well built though not top tier motorhomes, in this case the company went out of business primarily due to delamination failures of the side walls, this was through no fault of their own, instead the company they bought their side walls from had a manufacturing fault in their process, which was not caught until years later when the walls started failing.
Another problem with trying to give specific brand advice, is without knowing a specific year and model it is often hard to make a blanket statement. Over the years some brands have moved up market, some have moved down market, some are no longer around, some were once quality names, but have been bought out (many around the 2008 economic meltdown) and now exist in name only and are no longer the quality brand they once were.
One other thing about class C's very few of them have ever been well built, this is partly due to the need to use light weight materials to keep weight under the GVWR of 12,500 to 14,500 pounds for the Ford E series cutaway chassis.
Another problem with trying to give specific brand advice, is without knowing a specific year and model it is often hard to make a blanket statement. Over the years some brands have moved up market, some have moved down market, some are no longer around, some were once quality names, but have been bought out (many around the 2008 economic meltdown) and now exist in name only and are no longer the quality brand they once were.
One other thing about class C's very few of them have ever been well built, this is partly due to the need to use light weight materials to keep weight under the GVWR of 12,500 to 14,500 pounds for the Ford E series cutaway chassis.
Arch Hoagland
Well-known member
Have you ever had or used an RV?
ZinLuvR
Well-known member
I agree with the others and will add this; have some money set aside to fix/repair/replace things you or an inspector won't find. Hopefully you won't find any expensive repairs needed. We bought used, glad we did, and we went in with money in the bank to cover any problems. As to brand, forget it for the most part. We had no idea we would end up with our Monaco, wasn't on our list at all when we started. Floor plan, floor plan, floor plan. Someone once advised, "happy wife, happy life". Good luck in your search, don't get in a hurry, there are thousands of RV's out there for sale. You might try craigslist as well.
RedandSilver
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2016
- Posts
- 1,325
jameshugh said:
Welcome to the forum.
Congrats on retiring. Your new to the motorhome world - how do you know you want a Class C that is 26-28ft?
Is that the biggest one you can park at home? OR is it the biggest one you think you can handle? etc.
What are your plans for it? Weekend trips, week long, or months at a time? Are you alone?
Did you think about towing a vehicle behind it?
Where do you live - City and State? Are you in a warm climate year round? or in snow country during the Winter?
Rv'ing and Cold don't go together well at all.
Condition and floorplan are the things to look for. IF you buy something and don't like the features/floorplan you probably
won't use it as much as you planned to. Don't be in a hurry because there is a lot to learn before you jump in.
WILDEBILL308
Well-known member
Just a thought, why mess with a small class "C" when for the same money you can have a realey nice Class A diesel for the same money. More storage more towing better quality than any "C" I have seen. Here is a 38' 2002 NEWMAR KOUNTRY STAR 300HP CUMMINS W/2 SLIDES and only 25,218 miles, they have a couple like that right now. https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/used-rvs-for-sale/diesel-motorhomes/2002-newmar-kountry-star_rv-40803jameshugh said:
Let me know what you think.
Bill
muskoka guy
Well-known member
If you look, the PPL website also has a section that will show you actual sale prices for used rvs sold in the last two years. This is helpful for gauging actual values for certain models, sizes etc. CheersWILDEBILL308 said:
