I assume that you measured between the RV and earth ground and alternating current voltage and that the RV was connected to shore power?Got a meter and it has 24 volts on the frame. What is causing that?
Test that again with a CHEAP ANAOLOG voltmeter. I bet you were using a digital voltmeter.2011 30' Salem Cruise Lite. I was jacking the trailer to change a tire. My ear touched a bolt and it tingled. Got a meter and it has 24 volts on the frame. What is causing that?
Absolutely. A tingle today could be electrocution of someone tomorrow.I would say if there's enough there to get a "tickle" on bare skin then I would want to know where it's coming from.
The last trailer I bought the owner had made his own 20 amp adapter (Plug in v/s Twist lock) and did just that.. He made it out of an extension cord and he swapped the leads on that too so if you used his cord. No problem but I use my own 12ga cord wired properly so problem.. I fixed.I had that problem too. I discovered that the plug I had used from my garage had the hot & common leads reversed. A simple plug tester from HomeDepot was all I needed.
Turning off the circuit breaker will open the hot lead to the water heater but won't do anything to eliminate a ground fault if there's a neutral to ground short. You'll still trip a GFCI ibreaker even with the circuit breaker off.Heating elements of the fridge and water heater are both very good suspects. Plug into a ground fault receptacle. Does it trip it? This makes finding it easier. Start with unplugging the fridge cord on the backside of the fridge, flip off the water heater if you had it on. Process of elimination, just one item at a time. Make sure whatever you are checking is actually functioning at the time.
Charles
The most important question here still has not been answered by the OP. So why are we even trying to guess the answer?And, measured between what 2 points?