Water pump not working

[Natetheskate]

I have a shurflo 2088-404-144 water pump that the motor runs, but it isn’t pumping water. Anyone familiar with this unit? And what can I do besides replacing the pump?

 

[DonTom]

And what can I do besides replacing the pump?

I would check the voltage at the pump, make sure water is getting into it and if all that checks okay (and most likely is) replace the pump with a HydroMax pump part # P25201. It should be somewhat of a direct replacement but with 15 more psi. I think the shurflo 2088-404-144 is no longer available.

But you can buy the exact same Shurflo 2088-404-144 unit as used here.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[NY_Dutch]

Here's a direct replacement for your Shurflo 2088-404-144:

Pentair SHURflo 2088-443-144 Diaphragm Sprayer Pump 3.5 GPM Auto Demand with Back-Flow Preventive Valve and Self-Priming, 45-PSI, 12VDC, 1/2" MSPT-Male - Hydraulic Pumps - Amazon.com

Pentair SHURflo 2088-443-144 Diaphragm Sprayer Pump 3.5 GPM Auto Demand with Back-Flow Preventive Valve and Self-Priming, 45-PSI, 12VDC, 1/2" MSPT-Male - Hydraulic Pumps - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Or since the motor is working, you could just replace the pump head and save a few dollars:

Amazon.com: SHURFLO (94-236-08 Head Assembly : Automotive

Amazon.com: SHURFLO (94-236-08 Head Assembly : Automotive

www.amazon.com

 

[Rene T]

I had a pump years ago, don’t know what brand but had the same issue. I removed the pump head and found that all the screws for the different vanes had backed out. Tightened them up and all was sat.
There may be a filter in the inlet side of the pump may be plugged. If there is, remove it and clean it or replace it.

Do you have water in the tank?

 

[Natetheskate]

Yes

 

[Henry J Fate]

I find it easier to pull the pump and bench test it depending on where and how it is mounted. It is easier to perform maintenance and it prevents water from spilling and creating new problems in the RV. If it is getting water to the inlet, the screen is clear, all valves are set properly and it was working fine yesterday, it would be best to replace the entire pump. If you get the same pump as listed above, you will inherit some parts from the old one.

The only other thing I would add is that if you are in below freezing temps, make sure things have not iced up.

I have the same pump in my 2001 Brave. The filter screen turns to lock on and off. Just be careful of water flowing out. You will need to plug the tank feed line after emptying the tank. It is possible to have water back feed from the house side too so be ready to manage some water if you tackle the problem installed. Same water flow problems will exist if you remove the pump for service or replacement.

 

[namumac1]

If the motor works you can buy a new pump head and replace the old one.

 

[boatbuilder]

If the pump sat idle and dried out, just getting some water thru it may get everything working again. It is just a multi-chambered diaphragm pump with in and out check vales on each chamber. If the check valve flaps dry out they may not seal and will prevent the pump from picking up water.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

First be sure that it is not sucking air from a cracked inlet hose and that the intake port isn't blocked with debris or sand. Both of those are common problems. Often the intake port has a small screen/filter that can block all water flow if it picks up much debris from the tank.

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[Kirk]

Before you do too much work, do you have a tank fill valve from city water that you use to fill the tank? If so, did you fill the tank yesterday just before the problem happened? If you have a tank fill valve and leave it in the fill position with the hose disconnected, the water pump will draw water from the tank bottom, pump the water into the system where it will pass the hose connection and pass through the open tank fill valve and back into the water tank. That will keep the pump running constantly and supply little or no water to the faucets. Check that first.

 

[Great Horned Owl]

There is a repair kit so you can replace bad diaphragms.
Repair Kit

Joel

 

[Natetheskate]

I took the pump apart, didn’t find anything broken, but noticed that the pump doesn’t have a screen! I bought another pump - was told it was a bolt on replacement, but the inlet/outlet was a bit higher than the original, so it won’t work unless I change the plumbing. I’ll just wait until I get home.

 

[Rob&Deryl]

I would check the voltage at the pump, make sure water is getting into it and if all that checks okay (and most likely is) replace the pump with a HydroMax pump part # P25201. It should be somewhat of a direct replacement but with 15 more psi. I think the shurflo 2088-404-144 is no longer available.

But you can buy the exact same Shurflo 2088-404-144 unit as used here.

-Don- Reno, NV

I replaced mine with a higher pressure unit but I know my plumbing is rated for it. Older RVs May only be rated for 40psi.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Older RVs May only be rated for 40psi.

60 psi is the least rating I've ever seen, and that was back in the 80's. It's pretty much standard that RV water pumps come factory set at 40-45 psi, putting them well within the max pressure envelope. RVIA standards have called for pressure tests around 85 psi since the early 2000's.

 

[Kirk]

RVIA standards have called for pressure tests around 85 psi since the early 2000's.

From the RV Doctor website, Properly Pressure Testing an RV Water System

 

[Henry J Fate]

Good practice is to use a pressure setting that is good for RV living and good for the plumbing. The shower is usually the determining factor for the RV living happiness. The plumbing pressure, regardless of the rating, is always best kept low. Especially in older vehicles. Mobile plumbing installations are exposed to different elements than let's say your home or stationary applications. Also, water leaks in a RV are quite a bit more complicated than in a home.

I have found that some folks cannot live without a healthy flow of water in the shower. That usually translates to 50-55 psi. Maybe even 60psi. If you can stand it, a little less pressure and flow under 50psi is a better choice.

Setting things in this manner may not be important to everyone but when a leak decides to appear and the damage becomes a reality, maintaining a lower pressure becomes a little more important. This is also important with city water connections. Get a good pressure regulator for city water connections. I recommend a Watts regulator for city water connections as they have been the standard in pressure regulation since the earth was proven not to be flat.

 

[Natetheskate]

Well, I got the pump changed out, had to put in new PEX pipe on the outlet side, since the pickup was a bit higher. I found out that vise-grips don't squeeze the clamps properly - had to get special kind of pliers off Amazon. But the pump works better, with superior flow, so I'm grateful for that.

 

[Rene T]

That’s awesome. Thanks for getting back to us.

 

[John From Detroit]

Pumps should be plumbed with flexible pipe to help control vibration noise.

As for PEX... I use sharkbite connections on it.. When the shark bites, Into Pex dear, Water leaks, Go away.

 

[Natetheskate]

The reason I did it that way is because that's the way it came from the factory. Of course, after I had done all this I discovered that ShurFlo offers a kit with flexible line for this purpose.