What is the best plan for storing my RV battery during the off season?

[elkcamp]

I've heard: Put it on a shelf and recharge when your ready to use it again; put a battery maintainer on it; put it on the charger every 30-60 days. Thoughts?

 

[Ned]

All of the above will work.  Pick the method that you prefer.

 

[SargeW]

I prefer the use of a quality battery maintenance charger.  It stays plugged in, and only kicks on when the charge state drops below a preset point. Don't get a cheap one, they may boil the battery dry.

 

[JimGeorgia]

We have shore power and keep our unit plugged in.  Is that a problem?  I check the battery fill levels on the house batteries.

 

[SargeW]

Nope, that's fine Jim. As long as you are periodically checking the water levels, that is no problem at all.

 

[poncho62]

I just set it on a shelf in the garage, along with the lawn tractor batteries....Once a month, I put them on a charger for a few hrs each

 

[Sean G.]

^ +1

 

[Wavery]

If you live in severe cold climate, removing the batteries may be worth the time & effort. Otherwise, I would recommend a solar charger (maybe 20W minimum, higher in northern climate where there is very little Sun-lite). The controller for the solar panel acts as a "Maintainer" and gives you the peace of mind that the battery will always be charged. I even have a solar panel on my tractor garage. I hook it up when not in use. Then again it is still critical to check the water level monthly. Be careful not to fall into the trap of feeling like, "Well... it's just a little low, I'll fill it next month". When the water level starts dropping the battery loses it's cooling ability and the water will evaporate in an exponential manner.

The problem with leaving the battery on the shelf and charging it before the next trip is that batteries naturally lose voltage over time. It's best to recharge your battery when it drops to 12.5V and never let it drop below 11.5V. The battery loses it's ability to recover from low voltage.

Remember...... never use tap water under any conditions. The minerals in tap water will kill batteries. Most grocery stores sell distilled water and it's always a good idea to keep a gallon or 2 on hand.

 

[Mopar1973Man]

The easiest way is what I do. Park the RV and plug it in to 120 VAC and not worry. Head into my 5 year on these batteries and still going strong with winter temps as low as -25*F and just leaving the RV plugged in. Once a month I check the water levels that's it.

 

[John From Detroit]

Battery Tender (TM) or Battery Minder (TM) (Battery maintainers) you need not remove from RV if you have power

If you have a GOOD 3-stage converter... Just plug in.

IF you decide to remove the batteries please do yourself a favor or two.

On the batteries there are wires from battery to battery: For the moment ignore these.
And there is at least one wire on each "end" (positive or negative) that runs off to somewhere else.

PAINT tape, or slip a colored split loom (that ribbed plastic tube) over the POSITIVE wire(s) make the paint, tape or loom RED (nail polish works well here)

Optional use BLACK on the negative wire.

And if more than one wire is attached TIE the wires together with string or tape them together or put a bolt through the lugs so they stay together.

On my chassis battery I used to have 3 such hooked to the positive, I ended up putting them together in such a way I now have a single wire to the positive, makes it easier to hook/unhook and ...  Other improvements (They simply used the WRONG metal for that triple connection lugs).

 

[elkcamp]

All good tips. Thanks!

 

[Wavery]

One other tip......... keep the battery top clean and dry. A dirty and/or wet battery top will conduct electricity between the battery posts and will lose voltage faster. Even high humidity will have some conductivity and increase the natural voltage loss.

 

[GaryWT]

Mine is plugged in from April/May to Nov.  when winterizing I but it in the basement of the house and unplug the trailer.  In the spring I usually just install it and plug in the trailer and it charges.  If I think of it I might put it on a trickle charger for a day or so prior to the install.

 

[Mopar1973Man]

The only thing a battery requires through the winter is a low level charge. For 12V system 13.2 volts is perfect. The batteries don't have to be removed from the vehicle. As with any battery if left unhooked it will self discharge. So that means you have to maintain a charge on the batteries. Anytime the batteries are being charged they will emit some moisture all batteries will so this is why you have to check the electrolyte levels in the batteries now and then. If you check the water level month and keep a charger on the batteries at a very low level like I said like 13.2 volts your batteries will last 10 plus years most likely. 

I should know being my stick and bricks is powered by a 24 volt battery bank hooked to 4kw inverter powering the house. I typically clear 12-13 years out of the 8 large 6 volt batteries powering the house.  These batteries are not in a heater area either they are subjected to cold temperatures as well. So this all being said the RV is just a mini version of that I live in the rest of the time. Just two 12V batteries, 1,200 watt inverter and a few solar panels.

 

[99WinAdventurer37G]

Battery Tender (TM) or Battery Minder (TM) (Battery maintainers) you need not remove from RV if you have power

If you have a GOOD 3-stage converter... Just plug in.

IF you decide to remove the batteries please do yourself a favor or two.

On the batteries there are wires from battery to battery: For the moment ignore these.
And there is at least one wire on each "end" (positive or negative) that runs off to somewhere else.

PAINT tape, or slip a colored split loom (that ribbed plastic tube) over the POSITIVE wire(s) make the paint, tape or loom RED (nail polish works well here)

Optional use BLACK on the negative wire.

And if more than one wire is attached TIE the wires together with string or tape them together or put a bolt through the lugs so they stay together.

On my chassis battery I used to have 3 such hooked to the positive, I ended up putting them together in such a way I now have a single wire to the positive, makes it easier to hook/unhook and ...  Other improvements (They simply used the WRONG metal for that triple connection lugs).

I used a "Battery Tender" on my motor cycle, and after 8 years (and counting) with the same battery I thought I was onto something.  (it's connected when I'm not riding or towing it behind the MH) It turns out a battery "conditioner" or maintainer that slowly charges your batteries, while not overcharging them, helps them to last much longer.  They sell the Battery Tender at Costco and Walmart, but from what I've learned, any conditioner or maintainer that trickle charges without overcharging, should do it.

And marking the wires before you disconnect them is one of the best things you can do to prevent mistakes.