What RV antifreeze is good for long term use?

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Len and Jo

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Never really thought about this in the past and just bought "the pink stuff" at the best price I could find. Got in a discussion on the stuff and it got my gray cells moving. This is the only article I have found on the subject. There appears to be significant pricing differences ($3 - $7 per gallon) depending on the ingredient mix (ethanol, proplyene glycol, glycerol), . Since we take several winter camping trips each year we consume many gallons of this stuff in a year. Insight from long term RVers would be nice. What kind of RV antifreeze should you use?
 
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The pink stuff is all I've ever used. It does leave a bad taste so I'm considering filling my system with something that has a better taste and is drinkable. The freezing point of 80 proof vodka is -16 degrees and flushing the system can be done the next spring one glass at a time.
 
Never really thought about this in the past and just bought "the pink stuff" at the best price I could find. Got in a discussion on the stuff and it got my gray cells moving. This is the only article I have found on the subject. There appears to be significant pricing differences ($3 - $7 per gallon) depending on the ingredient mix (ethanol, proplyene glycol, glycerol), . Since we take several winter camping trips each year we consume many gallons of this stuff in a year. Insight from long term RVers would be nice. What kind of RV antifreeze should you use?
At $3 a gallon and using only about 3 gallons each time, the expense is minuscule.
 
At $3 a gallon and using only about 3 gallons each time, the expense is minuscule.
That would be a nice price. Here Walmart has it (last year) at $2.95/gal for a very short time, then jumps to $5 and, sometimes, up to $8/gal. Lowe's seems to have it in the $5 range. And some rigs take a lot more than 3 gallons. The Beaver I used to have needed 5 gal. for just the hot water side (no water heater, it had Aqua Hot). For the Ventana it's 4 gal for the hot water side (Oasis instead of water heater).
Thankfully blowing out the cold side with air sufficed for that side on both rigs.

So it's not the same for every rig or location.
 
I would expect that a purely ethanol antifreeze would be tasteless and not require any flushing in the spring, but I'm pretty sure the ethyl alcohol would have to be "de-natured" to make it undrinkable, thus avoiding the hefty taxes on potable ethyl alcohol. The "de-naturing" ingredient is probably going to make it unpalatable. The RV antifreezes I see that are labeled "ethanol" seem to include propylene glycol as well.

Note that glycol is an alcohol too, just in a different form. Propylene glycol is non-toxic to humans, but ethylene glycol is poisonous in even small amounts.

Concentrated ethanol can be damaging to some plastics, e.g. acetate, but shouldn't bother most materials, especially in the <20% concentration typical of RV potable water antifreezes.

I think the best choice is simply the lowest cost blend of potable water antifreeze that gets the job done.
 
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That would be a nice price. Here Walmart has it (last year) at $2.95/gal for a very short time, then jumps to $5 and, sometimes, up to $8/gal. Lowe's seems to have it in the $5 range. And some rigs take a lot more than 3 gallons. The Beaver I used to have needed 5 gal. for just the hot water side (no water heater, it had Aqua Hot). For the Ventana it's 4 gal for the hot water side (Oasis instead of water heater).
Thankfully blowing out the cold side with air sufficed for that side on both rigs.

So it's not the same for every rig or location.

Wait until the winterizing rush is over to buy it. Our Walmart dropped the price drastically around December. Wanted to get rid of the old stock.

Right now they have it for $3.98
 
The best antifreeze for long term use.
In the fresh water system... AIR. if the air ever freezes you won't be worried about the RV.
IN traps and toilets... More or less all the same. Go pink.
 
I have found that Nitrogen (78 %), mixed with oxygen (21%), water vapour (small & variable amount), argon (0.9 %), carbon dioxide (0.04%), and trace gases works well.

This concoction is forced through the entire water system using an air compressor set on 20 psi, thus eliminating all water. I usually drain the water heater and leave the plug out until spring where the flowing water from the heater is a very good reminder that the plug was left out. Don't forget the toilet valve will hold water if your not careful. Always carry a spare valve just in case.
 
Yep, I buy a case/6 G near the end of Dec. for the following year. It takes 2 G to winterize my 40" DP with clothes washer.

That's the way I buy mine. I order the PG type. It may cost more but I like the PG formula better. 2-1/2 gallons include the drains and toilet.
 
This concoction is forced through the entire water system using an air compressor set on 20 psi, thus eliminating all water.
Not quite all water, but on most rigs it's adequate. Nonetheless, on rigs with hydronic heating systems (specifically Aqua Hot and Oasis) using air leaves just enough water behind to damage the tight, twisty internal spaces in these units, risking a very expensive repair, so the pink stuff on the hot side after using air is necessary for those. Note that the manual is very specific about that.
 
I have found that Nitrogen (78 %), mixed with oxygen (21%), water vapour (small & variable amount), argon (0.9 %), carbon dioxide (0.04%), and trace gases works well.

This concoction is forced through the entire water system using an air compressor set on 20 psi, thus eliminating all water. I usually drain the water heater and leave the plug out until spring where the flowing water from the heater is a very good reminder that the plug was left out. Don't forget the toilet valve will hold water if your not careful. Always carry a spare valve just in case.
That might be great for Florida. Try that above the Mason Dixon line.
 
That might be true especially since the Mason Dixon line has been moved south to Interstate 10.
Those fancy new devices sure are picky about freezing, better be safe and listen to those in the know.
 
I have found that Nitrogen (78 %), mixed with oxygen (21%), water vapour (small & variable amount), argon (0.9 %), carbon dioxide (0.04%), and trace gases works well.

This concoction is forced through the entire water system using an air compressor set on 20 psi, thus eliminating all water. I usually drain the water heater and leave the plug out until spring where the flowing water from the heater is a very good reminder that the plug was left out. Don't forget the toilet valve will hold water if your not careful. Always carry a spare valve just in case.
If water will go through there so will compressed air. Fill the p-traps with RV antifreeze and it's all good.
 
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