Winterizing Question - I could use some fast advice

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Well-known member
May 29, 2006
Poulsbo WA
Hi all -

Here in the NW it looks as if we're in for some night temps in the 20's this week. Remember, I can't get the water pump to work. I'm convinced it's a fuse but, despite all your advice, I've yet to find it.

I'd like to avoid frozen pipes and don't have a lot of time so if I can get this done Sunday (today) that would be a help. My thinking is to drain the water tank and I think I read in this forum to use an air compressor down drains to force the water out? If so, would that be both the kitchen and bath sinks?

I know I'll get some solid, quick advice. Thanks in advance -

Poulsbo WA

I used to blow water out of fresh water system and pour a small amount of RV antifreeze down the drains to protect the traps. If you have electricity at your RV you could avoid having to winterize by leaving the furnace set at a50 degrees to keep it from freezing. Also if the temps are only going into the upper twenties and will go back to 40 or so during the day you could probably get by with just draining your fresh water tank.

That said to be safe:

Apply 50-60psi of air to your city water inlet with one faucet already open. Keeping one faucet open at all times open and close each hot and cold faucet working from closet to supply to furtherest in that order including flushing the toilet.. This will go quicker if you bypass the water heater and drain it using lower drain .

Since you cannot run your pump after you have blown air out of system disconnect water pump so that it drains and pour a few cups of RV antifreeze down each trap and into toilet bowl.

Good luck.
You do not blow out via the drains. In fact, the drains are rarely a problem because they are open and freezing water can readily expand. But to be safe,  pour some RV (non-toxic) anti-freeze down each sink & shower drain to prevent the water in the p-traps from freezing.

You blow out the lines by hooking an adapter to the city inlet - it has hose thread on one side and an air valve nipple on the other. Available at most RV stores and some hardware stores.  Open a water tap  and blow low pressure air through the water line, thus pushing water out the tap. Close the tap and repeat the process with the next one. If it is a single lever faucet, do it for both cold and hot positions, to get both water feeds. 20 -30 psi of air is sufficient. Don't forget the toilet feed.  If you have an ice maker, you will have to cycle that too, or disconnect the water line at the control valve (usually located behind the fridge and accessible via the outside fridge access door).  Before doing this, drain the water heater and close the heater bypass valve, if you have one.  That way you aren't trying to blow the tank full of air.It is usually located right near the heater but inside the rig. Sometimes it is right in the wet bay.

If it won't be cold very long, you could just leave the heat on low. Maybe put a 75-100W light bulb in the bay by the water valves, since they don't get much heat from inside. I'd still do something with the ice maker line, though. Even if you just wrap it in insulation or put another small light bulb in that area too. It doesn't take much heat to keep it above freezing.
Thanks guys -

Here'[s what i guess I'll do -

Drain the water tank tonight. Leave the heat inside on 50 or so - I have plenty of propane. I have no RV anti-freeze, only auto - so maybe I can run to the RV supply store in the morning and put it in tomorrow (Mon) night. While there, I can look for the adapter mentioned by Roamer.

Thanks Jeff, Roamer. This has been an unusual winter here in the NW - much colder and windier than normal and they're mowing their lawns in NYC. IMO - All part of the inevitability of global warming.

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