Winterizing Question

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Well-known member
Jul 10, 2012
I am winterizing our 98 Winnebago Brave for the first time.
I am wondering how do you deal with the water heater?
Specifically the small section of water line between the Bypass valves & the water heater?

I have drained the water heater, dumped all tanks, pumped RV Anti freeze they all lines & fixtures.
Filled all traps and dumped 1/2 a gallon in each of the black & grey water tanks.
But there is still a shirt section of water line between the by pass valves and the water heater filled with fresh water.
How do I get that out ?
Does everyone put the plug back in and run anti freeze thru the water heater?!



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That section of tubing should have pretty much drained when the WH was drained, but if you are concerned, you could open the by-pass valves (with no water pressure).  This should allow some of the antifreeze to push out most of the water or at least mix with it.  If still concerned, pressurize your water system with 30-40 lbs of air with a compressor and then open the by-pass valves.  FWIW - I've never been concerned with it nor had a problem with it.

I leave my plug out, but I have insect screening blocking the WH panel vents so insects and other critters can't get in (not that they would in winter).
I've never worried about that and never had a problem either. If you still desire more action, follow Molaker's advice.
Okay, one more question .
The tube from the fresh water tank to the low point drain.
Mine still has some water in it.
Would you pour antifreeze into the fresh water tank and run it thru that section to the low point drain valve?

My concern is based upon the new water heater, plumbing and sub floor that had to be replaced by the dealership.
As the previous owner was an older couple, the gentelman passed away and the RV didn't get winterized.
The dealership disclosed this to us prior to the sale.
Needless to say I don't want any issues if there's something I can do to prevent it.
The last thee nights have gotten down to 24deg.
In my opinion, the best way to winterize is by blowing out the water with air pressure applied at the city water connection.  Open and close each faucet (including the outside shower) one at a time several times until no more water blows out and then fill each trap (sinks, shower) with antifreeze.

Many fresh water winterizing systems there is a feature where the system is set to the city water mode (fresh water tank not in service) and by a special valve setting and hose connection antifreeze can be pumped from a jug of antifreeze into the system and not into the tank.  Your RV documentation (or dealer) should be able to give you the info on your particular system.
How is it that water is remaining in the line to the low-point drain? Why doesn't it empty when the drain is open? Is there a spot in the line that is lower than the drain itself?  Seems odd...

You should not have a problem with small amounts of water as long as it has room to expand, i.e. there is air as well as water in the line. Breakage occurs primarily when water is trapped between two shut-off points.  The water has no place to go as it expands during the freezing, so it cracks the pipe or tubing instead.
I'm the odd duck in the group that doesn't use anything more than air. I drain all tanks and such. I blow all lines out with just compressed air. I even blow the lines out to the water here to be sure no water is trap in the lines. I add 2 ozs of pink to the toilet and that about it. I even blow out all sink traps too.

Can't freeze what's not there.

I use a bit more pink than you but I have two toilets.....

My line on the "Dry method" is "If the air frezes, the pipes on the motor home will not be on the list of things I am worried about" 

If you'd like to know what WILL be on that list.. Just one thing.. Heaven or.. that other place.
Playing devil's advocate. If you only blow out the water lines using the city water inlet, how do you protect the water pump? I think when you run water through the city water inlet, it by passes the water pump, and thus so would the air to blow out the water.

Just askin...

When using air to blow out the lines, you drain the fresh tank and run the pump dry. It won't be 100% dry because it is self-priming, but it's dry enough so that freezing will not damage it.
Exactly how I do it.  8)

When using air to blow out the lines, you drain the fresh tank and run the pump dry. It won't be 100% dry because it is self-priming, but it's dry enough so that freezing will not damage it.

So very true...  ;)

My line on the "Dry method" is "If the air freezes, the pipes on the motor home will not be on the list of things I am worried about"
My method of winterizing, which I highly recommend, is to drive the MH to the closest area where the average temperature is 70 degrees and it never freezes at night. Then stay with the rig and check the water system daily by taking at least one shower and washing the dishes after every meal. I've never had any broken parts while using this method.

Yours truly, tongue in cheek
Mine method works almost as well as bucks2's....

I tie a large snow shovel to the front of the vehicle and drive away. When someone stops me and asks "What is 'that thing' for??", I know I have gone far enough and it is safe to stay awhile!!! ;D
I did that the first year I started going south Stu. I put a snowblower on the roof. When people stopped asking how I got it up there and started asking what it was, I knew I had reached my destination.

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