Recent content by Dreams

Ok just one stud and I figured makes sense for biggest first so I will go battery to relay, then relay to starter, then relay to alternator,  and then the hazards. Wasn't sure on the stars because some say because the rings are all different the stars make better contact. It all worked either...

Nothing major just curious question. Some background: Have a 1976 Superior on Dodge M500 chassis, 440-3 with headers. Anyways took her out for a test drive and when we turned her off the heat from the end of the header that wasn't wrapped radiated up on the starter relay and got flame going...

For now I am still setting up power. If I keep the constant duty what amp should I use? I will have 12v 400w solar with possible upping in future. If it matters I am running a 440 with sniper efi. Have to check what the starter and alt are. Thank you all for the valuable info. All info is...

Thank you all for the input. I am still gathering info on this before I commit to anything. It is a slow expensive work in progress. Figuring out no matter what I need on this motor home (76 Superior 2900) I have to search everywhere and then still have to use my imagination to fix things...

Right now the way it is wired it has 1 cable going from starter relay to solenoid then from the same terminal a cable goes to the positive on the battery, the second terminal has a wire going to the frame, the 3rd terminal has a cut wire to no where and the 4th terminal is empty. The house...

Not sure where this fits so it is here for now. I am remodeling/rewiring a 76 superior and came to a dilemma. I have removed all the house wiring and will be running it completely separate from the starting batteries. My question is do I really need the constant duty solenoid since the battery...

Thanks for the info...will remove it. Lucky for me it is just screwed on so easy to remove.

Emblem with raised letters on front and back of rv. Not sure what the number is for. Need to repaint the white letters but unsure of what paint to use for plastic.

Ok, yes just want a good surface. Thanks for confirming it for me. There are so many opinions out there contradicting each other. I figure you know how rv floors should work. Thanks again... Jen

Sounds good to me. Still wondering should I glue between the plywood? Some say yes for strength and others say no glue so the overlay has some give separate from the subfloor that is attached to the metal joist.  Also do I need some type of water barrier between the plywood and flooring or is...

On our 76 superior the floor was one of those things that the farther you get the more you say "did they really do that? Really?? First I took up the t&g wood laminate floor. Under that was the "really?" part. On the plywood subfloor they had painted over top of pieces of carpet padding, rusty...

Thanks for the links...any info is good to find. Been working on this for about a year and a half and found out most parts are non existant. Had to have a new driveline built and special order ignition parts. Gonna upgrade to fuel injection system. The mechanic is taking her on as a challenge...

Lump of coal working it's way to diamond in the rough. Before and now

In the process of getting our 76 dodge superior 2900 up and running. Saved her from the scrappers. Been working on fixing her up for a little more than a year. Hoping to find some/any info on this rv but having no luck anywhere. Can't even find pictures that match. But anyway, happy travels...