1996 Ford frames (Gulfstream this case)

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snobird

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Joined
Nov 20, 2010
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8
After a period of no use, the engine electric was dead as can be .  Changed the engine battery and a relay on the doghouse firewall (side mount) still no juice. Is there a standard procedure to narrow down the culpert as I'm 75 miles from any dealer and NO Gulfstream dealers in the Pacific Northwest.  They won't even answer the phone for me in Indiana as they KNOW we're screwed and blue in the NW! Oh it's a gas guzzler to boot.  Yellowstone Model CLA
 
Are you talking about an F53, class A, Ford chassis?
Do you have a battery disconnect switch by the entry door or on the dash that may be open?
Do you have a volt meter that you could use to make a couple of quick checks for basic power?

Certain items (i.e. Headlights, steps, etc..) should work if you have things hooked up correctly, even with the (factory installed) disconnect switch open.  Do these items work?

 
First need to know if it is the Class A (F53) or Class C (E350 van) chassis. But the items that Lou mentioned should work in ether case. Do they? nay other clues you can give?
 
aka Porky said:
Are you talking about an F53, class A, Ford chassis?
Do you have a battery disconnect switch by the entry door or on the dash that may be open?  < yes a store sw for coach or engine may be the circuit board??
Do you have a volt meter that you could use to make a couple of quick checks for basic power?

Certain items (i.e. Headlights, steps, etc..) should work if you have things hooked up correctly, even with the (factory installed) disconnect switch open.  Do these items work?
  Not sure on the F53 but I found parts online with E350 Probably the 53 though. Nothing works, headlights, wait just the aftermarket radio.


Edit: Moderator fixed missing end-quote control word
 
Gary RV Roamer said:
First need to know if it is the Class A (F53) or Class C (E350 van) chassis. But the items that Lou mentioned should work in ether case. Do they? nay other clues you can give?

Guessing E350 Shore power works when plugged in, batteries are iffy.  Engine nothing works including lights all that only the radio. Kind of like the Key switch in reg auto scenarios.  Low mileage on this one 39,000.
 
If nothing works on the engine, even the lights, I'd say you have the main fuse (usually a fusible link) open. You said the aftermarket radio works, so I suspect that is wired direct to the battery.
 
Gary RV Roamer said:
If nothing works on the engine, even the lights, I'd say you have the main fuse (usually a fusible link) open. You said the aftermarket radio works, so I suspect that is wired direct to the battery.
Or to the house batteries maybe.
 
Have you checked the ground connections?  Not just at the battery, but where the ground cable actually attaches to the frame or ground shunt?  I suspect the batteries were allowed to just gradually die and that is a recipe for corrosion.
Jerry
 
Lots of good ideas here.  Been raining and yes we had a little snow!  I'll get out tomorrow and fire up the meters. Fuseable link?  circuit breakers? grounds,  all possible causes or perhaps a smaller relay as there are about 6 to suspect!  Tried the button on the isolater trick while someone else tried the starter with no results yesterday,  Just dead as dead can be.  It did click on a relay when I did that though.
 
Is it a A or a C unit?  This will determine if F53 or E350/450.

Your Yellowstone CLA makes me think CLass A.  which means F53.
 
It's a class A yellowstone and I just found some interesting numbers on the Vin  3FCMF53GOTJA09564,  Notice the F53 in the center! I guess the grounds are ok.
 

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