Alaska with the Stocks 2013

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June 13 Day 27 Whitehorse, YT

We have been getting up early, so we decided to sleep in.  But...We awakened to the sound of chirping, and it wasn't birds--it was our phones.  Electricity was going on and off, until it finally stayed off completely.  Power was restored 30 minutes later.

Today we went to the Beringia Interpretive Centre, our favorite attraction when we stayed here for 10 days in 2009.  Admission was $5 x 2 for seniors, and well worth it.  They have added a whole new wing since we were last here, and we were the only people there from 11-1. 

I had taught my sixth graders and third graders about the "land bridge", but I had no idea that this land mass was the size of the 48 United States and was a flat plain never covered by glaciers.  It had plentiful grasses and very few trees, so it was like a grocery store for mammoths, bison, sloths, sheep, goats, caribou, and short-faced bears.  These in turn were a food source for LIONS, yes lions, which were the most numerous predators.

We viewed exhibits and then saw a 17-minute film explaining Beringia that had been made specifically for the museum.  We went to lunch at nearby Airport Chalet--Dean had a hamburger and coffee, and I had the cheapest meal on the menu, perogies with tap water to drink.  It cost $30.  Everything was tasty. 

We returned to the museum in time for their National Geographic film about Beringia, which focused more on the animals and less on its creation.  They had a multitude of fossils that have been discovered by placer miners when mining using high-pressure water on the sides of cliffs.  They are mining for gold, silver, copper, and tungsten.

We pretended we were hunters and used the atlatl, a spear-throwing tool.  Dean excelled (Picture 1), and in 2 tries almost hit the bison.  He threw it with enough force that it stuck in the ground.  (Picture 2) We would not have starved with such a skilled hunter.  Mine came close to the rabbits in the foreground, but they flopped.  I would merely have tickled the rabbit.

Yesterday, we went to Extra Foods, only to find that it closed at 9:00, and it was then 9:20.  We found them to be the best grocery when we were here before, so we returned today to buy fresh produce.  Walmart didn't carry groceries in '09, so we didn't try them.

Last night, we went to the Yukon Movie Theatre and saw "Internship", which we both really enjoyed.  On the way home, we stopped at the bald eagles' nest because it was the perfect time (they are usually home from 9-11, based on past experience).  No eagles on the cliff, lightposts, flying over the Yukon River, or in the nest!  We returned today and again scoured the scenery, but we found no sign of them. (Picture 3) We did see a TV camera, and it may be new.  We'll check again on our trip home.

Population in Whitehorse has gone from 34,000 in 2009 to 36,000 in 2012.  I looked this up because I see so much construction going on, many new buildings and remodeled buildings, making the town look much nicer.

At the Beringia Centre, I asked the guide about the difference between a territory and a province.  He said that the federal government gives territories a LOT of money, subsidizing many programs.  They only get one member of Parliament.  Whitehorse is the capitol of the Yukon, and they have a government building, which we will visit on our return.

Staying at Pioneer RV Park--30 amps (sometimes), FHU, good WIFI, good cable TV, very full, suggest you reserve ahead

Postscript:  I had finished my posting, e-mails, bills, etc., and settled down for TV & dinner at 9:00, and there on TV was my eagle nest!  Inside it were 3 eggs, and the narrator said they are expected to hatch any day now.  Mama is turning them and active.  I want to go to it again and see if we can see anything.  The camera is new--just put up a few weeks ago by Yukon Electrical.
 

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Linda and Dean,

What a neat experience you had with the Tlingits!  Thanks for sharing it with us.  The part about the banner being turned, hiring another clan, and the potlatch were really interesting.  I had heard the word potlatch but didn't know anything about it.

Those carvings are something else!  I also think #4 is best.  Such detail!

Also I suspect more things will be open after June 15th.  You're still a few days early!  It sounds like the Beringia center's new section is worth visiting.  I thought the whole place was fascinating!

ArdraF
 
June 14 Day 28 Tok, Alaska

We drove 396 hard miles.  The road from Whitehorse to Haines Junction was average, with a dense carpet of magenta wildflowers, lavender lupine, and bright yellow daisy-like flowers lining the roadside. 

After Haines Junction, the road became rugged with lots of significant frostheaves that would launch you an inch off your seat--very much like riding a bucking bronco, even though we had seatbelts on.  I asked Dean to slow down from his pre-set 61-mph when my neck ached and our house-sized side-by-side refrigerator broke loose from its mooring, rolling into the kitchen cabinetry with a crash.  We stopped at the next parking area and put a block between the refrigerator and the cabinets.  It won't be an easy fix. 

Dean did bring his speed down to 45 mph, but it is not an experience I want to repeat, even at that speed.  I will be looking at changing that part of the itinerary for our return home trip.  I know I'm a tenderfoot (or in this case, a tenderneck), but I think the RVers who were passing us, even when we were doing 61 mph, are certifiably crazy. 

I think the Yukon Highway Department fixes the most-traveled roads first, and this one is a low priority and has not been repaired.  We did see road repair equipment, so maybe in a few weeks it will be better.

Going through the border was simple--5 minutes.  The only thing the officer wanted to see was our tomatoes, and they passed inspection.  He also asked about citrus and apples. 

However, the people in the park next to us are from Florida, and they had a 5-hour ORDEAL at Niagara Falls.  The officers unbolted the bed in their Prevost coach, pulled out all the drawers, looked on the bottom of them, (if there'd been a gun on the underside, the drawer wouldn't have been able to be pulled out), took out screwdrivers and unscrewed things, searched everything thoroughly, then brought in their dog.  They did body searches, and the lady, who is quite overweight, said they kept poking her fat abdomen (as if she could hide anything there), and even went between her butt cheeks.  The man said that he did have an authorized gun with permit, which he readily showed them, but they were convinced that they had other guns.  He had mailed 2 guns to friends in Alaska, will pick them up there and carry them, and will send them home before he leaves the USA. When they get home, they are going to a lawyer.  They were in their late 60's and white.  They said there were kids with large backpacks that they didn't search, and there were Arabs with turbans, and they didn't look inside the turbans, or anywhere else on them.  She said it was so humiliating to be searched to out in the open with all these people looking on.  So, just because we had it easy, don't be tempted to bring in a gun.

On the US side the road was initially glasslike smooth, and they marked several small "rough" spots that were nothing.  We are so glad to be back in the US.  We now have good roads (so far), a beautiful RV park that's rated by Good Sam as the best in Alaska, and we can use our Verizon cellphones for no extra per minute charge.  Life is good!

We left at 8:30 and arrived in Tok at 6:00 (our time), 5:00 (Alaskan time).  Dean was going to grill salmon on a cedar plank, but he was tired after the rigorous drive.  After a brief rest, we went to Fast Eddie's Restaurant right next door.  We had a memorable meal there in '09, and I remembered hearing how good their pizza was.  This time I had their special, a huge (they called it the small size) 9-oz. prime rib, baked potato, and unlimited salad bar.  I only got one plate but I remembered how crisp and fresh it was from last time, and it didn't disappoint.  They have a nice variety of salads.  Dean ordered a coke and medium pizza, and we have plenty of leftovers for a meal tomorrow.  We both thought our meals were excellent.  The bill was $40.49.

If we had realized that we had gained an hour, we would have eaten right away because the park has a free evening music program at 7:00 that is popular.

We remembered that the prices at Village Gas were the best on the highway in '09.  I think our park has purchased it because they have lots of signs encouraging you to go there.  The Shell next door is a known brand, and it has the same price, $4.42/gallon, which is the best we've seen in a long, long time.

The weather today was gorgeous.  It's time to get out the mosquito repellent.

We will be washing our car and RV at the park, $6.50 for the car and $15 for the motorhome.

Wildlife: 2 white swans in a lake, and 2 loons in a large pond.

Staying at Tok RV Village--50 amps, FHU, nice managers, trees, 2 one-hour tickets for WiFi, Cable TV  $47.28, rated the highest of all Alaskan parks by Good Sam
 
That's the piece of road we avoided on our trip Linda. We had information from Marsha here on the Forum that they had an awful time driving that section of road. It sounds like they haven't gotten around to working on it yet. 

And I feel for the Florida couple. Some of the customs agents have such a warped paranoia of someone trying to "smuggle" a handgun into Canada that they just go off the charts with their investigations. Because you never know, a older couple from Florida just may snap and go all "Bonnie and Clyde" while passing through Canada! 
 
SargeW said:
 
And I feel for the Florida couple. Some of the customs agents have such a warped paranoia of someone trying to "smuggle" a handgun into Canada that they just go off the charts with their investigations. Because you never know, a older couple from Florida just may snap and go all "Bonnie and Clyde" while passing through Canada!

I like your sense of humor. This lady is a published author, and she is writing a log of this trip for her friends. She said she wrote a humorous piece about the experience for family, but she doesn't have the words to describe factually how emotionally devastating the episode was.  She had a hard time telling us about it without crying.  Somehow, I think she'll come up with the words before she reaches her lawyer's office.  Her husband was just plain furious--and that's what I would have been.
 
Hi Linda,  It's fun following your travel.  Last year we had rain...rain...and more rain. 

Ahhhhh, Fast Eddies.....great pizza.  We got a large, ate some of it along with a salad and then finished it off for the next several days.  It's delicious. 

Keep the journal coming!

Marsha~
 
Linda, I'm assuming this was Canada Customs entering Canada from the lower U.S.  There's no way I'd ever carry a gun into Canada!  I'm guessing Florida plates didn't help their situation either.  You know, those wild white-haired people down there!  ::)

ArdraF
 
June 15 Day 29 Fairbanks, Alaska

We had a pretty easy 203-mile drive with a few bumpy areas that were short and not big bumps, nothing like yesterday.

I gave misinformation in an earlier post. I figured that someone had spilled something on the road that the caribou were going after.  Wrong.  The highway department mixes salt with sand in the winter to provide better traction.  The sand blows away, leaving the salt on the roadway.  So, the asphalt is like a salt lick!  No wonder the caribou were insisting on returning to the road after each vehicle went by.

We were quite warm.  So we stopped at a shop we enjoyed in '09, the Knotty Shop, 35 miles east of Fairbanks.  There's a coupon on Page 225 of the Milepost for a free ice cream cone.  We each got a cup of rocky road, and it hit the spot.  They have interesting and different souvenirs made of burled wood.  I'll post our picture later, but it is a cute, creative shop.

It's 7:00 PM.  The temperature is a humid 88?F.  Dean was tuckered out, so he went to bed, and I'm going to the shower.

Electronics:  I can talk on my Verizon phone with no problem.  I can't seem to access data, which I am entitled to unlimited usage.  I can't update my aps.  The park limits us to 700 "mg" per 24-hour period, but neither Dean or our son has ever heard of a measurement of this type, so I'm going to post and do e-mails until it kicks me off.  I really want to check on my bald eaglets in Whitehorse.  They have hatched and seem strong.  I just googled "Whitehorse eagle cam", and it came right up.

Wildlife: 1 moose cow in profile head up munching on bushes, 1 tiny rabbit

Staying at River's Edge RV Park--50 amps, FHU, VERY tight and short, Dean had to unhook to position the RV and is quite concerned about hitting a tree when exiting--only 50 amp park in Fairbanks, 2nd choice was Rivers View, but it is 17-miles outside of town  $42.25 with Good Sam
 
Marsha/CA said:
Hi Linda,  It's fun following your travel.  Last year we had rain...rain...and more rain. 

Ahhhhh, Fast Eddies.....great pizza.  We got a large, ate some of it along with a salad and then finished it off for the next several days.  It's delicious. 

Marsha~

Marsha, I think of you every time we see a moose.  We had 13 straight days of rain, and now we are having sun, sun, and more sun, almost too much sun.  88? at 7:00 tonight, tomorrow 90?, 82? Monday, 88? Tuesday and 90? when we leave.  I'm sure all the 'squitoes have hatched and are waiting their Linda banquet.  We'll have rain in Valdez, Homer, and the rainforest.  But, I'm enjoying the sunshine while we have it.

Dean is devastated.  He ordered a medium pizza, anticipating all the leftovers, and he left it on the table.  He was ill at the thought of that good pizza being thrown away.  So, I'm not going to even mention that you thought it was delicious, too.  We're supposed to go through Tok on our way home, and if we do, we'll stop again at Fast Eddie's and get another one.
 
ArdraF said:
Linda, I'm assuming this was Canada Customs entering Canada from the lower U.S.  There's no way I'd ever carry a gun into Canada!  I'm guessing Florida plates didn't help their situation either.  You know, those wild white-haired people down there!  ::)

ArdraF

In fairness, I should say that the Canadians did offer to reassemble their RV, but they just wanted to get out of there after 5 hours of detention.  The man did say that the Customs officers were just sure he had an unauthorized gun.  However, I do think they should not have "patted them down" in full view of everyone.  I think it should have been handled more sensitively without compromising their investigation, and hopefully, their lawsuit or complaint will bring about some revisions.
 
Sarge,  didn't you take the Whitehorse, YK to Tok, AK via Haines Junction, YK into Alaska?  That road and the Top of The World road from Dawson (If I'm remembering correctly) are the only roads into Tok.  We decided we did not want to take the TOW road because of all the rain and were so glad we didn't take it. 

Linda, I was driving when we left Haines Junction toward Klune Lake then on into Tok and hit all the pot-holes and rough road you encountered.  I swerved all over the road trying to miss big pot holes and washboard going only 15- 20 miles an hour.  On the way out of Tok heading back toward Haines Junction on the return, the road was much better; but we were covered with tons of dust with long stretches of it.

I know you want to bypass that bad section near Haines Junction on your return; but the only other way to get back to Whithorse, YK is through Chicken and then on into Dawson then down to Whitehorse.  That is the Top of the World road has some dirt sections between Dawson and Chicken.  That's the road Sarge and I avoided.

Keep the posts coming.  I'm sad to hear Dean left the pizza on the counter!

Marsha~
 
You guys are about to catch up with us. We left Fairbanks yesterday and arrived at Denali Nat'l Park. Had no space for us until Sunday. I would call ahead if you are wanting to stay inside the park . We are staying 2 nights at $14.00 each on that old senior card Ha! I sure could use some pizza tonight,I guess the 3 flavors of fudge will have to suffice.
  We are at the Denali RV Park about 8-10 miles before the entrance Of Denali Nat'l Park. Already tripped our 30 amp twice tonight. 
 
Yeah, that's the way we went Marsha. We just avoided that one bad stretch that you went through. We specifically avoided TOW highway in the rig. Then about a week later a guy rolled his rig off a road up there due to a soft shoulder.
 
Ah...we did Skagway to Haines.  That road was great.  But the Haines Junction to Tok was a mess.

I am sure reliving our Alaska trip via all these Alaskan logs...fun to recall stuff.

Marsha~
 
Love reading your posts, guys!  For anyone who's even thinking about the TOW road and going through Chicken, then down, we've just heard from other friends who are ahead of us that the road yesterday and the day before was ghastly!!! And I mean REALLY bad, from all the rain etc.  Also heard from friends that the road from Haines Junction was torn up, with 22km of construction, using pilot cars to lead long lines of traffic through in single lanes...our friend said the posted speed limit was 30 mph (50 km/h) but the pilot car leading them through awful gravel and mud was going 40 mph...our friend refused to take his 40 ft rig any faster than 30 and the leader apparently got quite irritated about it. Sounds bad either way.
 
SaltyAdventurer said:
Love reading your posts, guys!  For anyone who's even thinking about the TOW road and going through Chicken, then down, we've just heard from other friends who are ahead of us that the road yesterday and the day before was ghastly!!! And I mean REALLY bad, from all the rain etc.  Also heard from friends that the road from Haines Junction was torn up, with 22km of construction, using pilot cars to lead long lines of traffic through in single lanes...our friend said the posted speed limit was 30 mph (50 km/h) but the pilot car leading them through awful gravel and mud was going 40 mph...our friend refused to take his 40 ft rig any faster than 30 and the leader apparently got quite irritated about it. Sounds bad either way.

When Dean and I drove the TOTW highway in '09, it was the WORST driving experience I've ever had.  Not only was the road terrible, but the scenery that had been described as beautiful was mostly dead spruce trees.  Our RV suffered terribly.  The dust is so fine it got into our GPS, requiring replacement.  The entire interior of the coach was covered in gritty dust.  The steps were caked with stuff, and Dean has worked hard repeatedly on them--they've never been the same.  But, the worst of all, was that they put a chemical on that is supposed to keep dust down (or so they tell me), and that chemical was carried by that superfine dust into the coach and burned the inside of my throat, mouth, lungs, and eyes.  That had to be unhealthy!  I would do ANYTHING to avoid that again--even walk it (and I have arthritis, so it would be painful).  We've been told that if you hit it right after the grader has gone through, it is much better.  We must have hit it right before they were ready to grade it again.  Lest you think our coach is easily penetrated, we do not get cold air coming through cracks on wintery nights, and we're "weatherproofed" according to Airstream.  I agree with your friend who drove Haines.  Let them yell at me.  I'm the one who has to  pay for the repairs to my coach and my body.  If he wants to pick up the tab, I'll reconsider.
 
Marsha/CA said:
I am sure reliving our Alaska trip via all these Alaskan logs...fun to recall stuff.

Marsha~

Marsha, did you catch that SaltyAdventurer's friend saw a BULL moose and got pictures????  I've never seen one in the wild, and getting a picture is like winning an Oscar.  I did inquire at the Fairbanks VC about concentrations, and she said she'd lived here a year and only seen one.  Not good.  But, I'll keep my eyes peeled.
 

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