Basement central air conditioner

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I finally got my Adventurer back from the mechanic. The a/c expert looked at it and found each compressor to be working, the start and run capacitors were all good and at the compressors, #1 was drawing 7.9 amps and #2 was drawing 8.2 amps. He said for a ten year old unit, this was acceptable because he looked up what the amp draw was supposed to be from my model plate on the a/c unit and found the compressors were supposed to draw 8.9 amps each for a total of 17.8.

He cleaned all the wires and connections, getting rid of any rust or buildup. Now, when I start the a/c, it shows a 27-28 amp draw for the startup and then immediately drops to 18-19, which is right where it is supposed to be. I'm not sure how accurate the reading at the EMS is compared to the reading directly at the compressors. The a/c blows cold air but not freezing.

The expert told me that down here in South Florida where the sun is hitting the ground at a more direct angle than up north, it is almost impossible to get one of these units to cool off more than 10 degrees less than outside ambient air temp. I told him I thought it was supposed to cool to 20 degrees below OAT and he said that up north, that is correct, but down here, it won't happen. He said the only other thing he could do for my a/c unit would be to install fittings and recharge the freon at a cost of around $500. And there was no guarantee this would help.

My mechanic told me to take that $500 and use it to install a new roof unit and run 50 amp service for the coach for a total cost of around $1500. That sounds a lot more sensible to me than putting more money into a ten year old basement a/c that wasn't that good to start with. That will have to wait until next year before our desert trip out West. For now, I can live with 80 degrees in the coach when it's 90 outside and when we go to the Midwest in a few weeks, I don't think the need will be that great.

I want to thank everyone that contributed to this thread for the information I needed on this subject. You guys are great.
 
John Stephens said:
I finally got my Adventurer back from the mechanic. The a/c expert looked at it and found each compressor to be working, the start and run capacitors were all good and at the compressors, #1 was drawing 7.9 amps and #2 was drawing 8.2 amps. He said for a ten year old unit, this was acceptable because he looked up what the amp draw was supposed to be from my model plate on the a/c unit and found the compressors were supposed to draw 8.9 amps each for a total of 17.8.
And when you add in the blower motor draw, you're right there at 21-23 amps total.

The expert told me that down here in South Florida where the sun is hitting the ground at a more direct angle than up north, it is almost impossible to get one of these units to cool off more than 10 degrees less than outside ambient air temp. I told him I thought it was supposed to cool to 20 degrees below OAT and he said that up north, that is correct, but down here, it won't happen.
There are a few variables that enter into the picture other than latitude.  Number of slides, dark full body paint or not, length of the unit, parked in full sun or not, condition of the ducting in the rear cap (the "Y" could be cracked and leaking cold air), etc.  It has been my experience that sometimes the best we could do was a 10 degree delta.

He said the only other thing he could do for my a/c unit would be to install fittings and recharge the freon at a cost of around $500. And there was no guarantee this would help.
Actually what they would do is to install service fittings and check the suction side and high pressure side for proper PSI.  If the pressures are okay and the suction side copper line at the compressor is cold and condensing moisture, then it's working nominally.

My mechanic told me to take that $500 and use it to install a new roof unit and run 50 amp service for the coach for a total cost of around $1500. That sounds a lot more sensible to me than putting more money into a ten year old basement a/c that wasn't that good to start with.
That is a good plan.
 
John Canfield said:
Your basement air should measure about 20 degrees below ambient outside temps at the return air duct.  If you check the first discharge vent with a thermometer (non-contact or a pencil type) with both compressors running the discharge temp should be in the 40s as I recall.... 

We were getting 38 degrees the other day. We just did a repair of the duct in the rear. The tape was leaking really badly and we are now getting a LOT more air flow. Our 2004 Winnebago Vectra has a 1 year old basement air unit. We blogged about the repair here: http://www.walkaboutwithwheels.blogspot.com/2016/03/duct-duct-whoosh.html
 
lajuene said:
... We just did a repair of the duct in the rear. The tape was leaking really badly and we are now getting a LOT more air flow...
Unfortunately that's a very common problem with our basement air ducting. Be sure and check your tape every few months, it will probably work loose at some point since it's almost impossible to get the duct perfectly clean and pristine for 100% adhesion of the metallic duct tape.  I've redone my tape job probably three or four times in spite of cleaning the duct seams with a solvent.
 
Perhaps a stupid question, but what duct location to check the duct tape?  In the basement or in the ceiling?

A. Craig
2002 Winnebago Adventurer 35U
Workhorse Chassis
 
rvandrew said:
Perhaps a stupid question, but what duct location to check the duct tape?  In the basement or in the ceiling?

Andrew-

Actually, neither.  The issue with the tape generally occurs behind the rear cap (the vertical section at the back of the coach) in the ductwork that runs from the units in the basement up to the ceiling ductwork.  Not sure how it's accessed in a gas coach.  In a diesel you can sort of see it through the openings for the radiator.
 
John Canfield may give you a better or more accurate reply, but according to my mechanic, there are two problem spots on basement a/c ductwork. You have the "Y" at the top of the rear cap where the duct from the a/c unit splits to service both sides of the coach's ceiling vents, and you also have the spot where mine went bad - halfway up the back of the rear cap where the duct work is put together. There are two straight pieces of duct work that have to fit together and are taped at the factory. The tape has a problem with coming loose and allowing the two pieces of ductwork to separate. I could stick my hand up inside of the rear cap and feel the cold air coming out; I was losing half of my a/c out the back of the coach. My mechanic used eternabond and essentially welded the two pieces together before retaping and guaranteed me it would never come apart again. To a smaller extent, you might have a problem where the ductwork connects to the blower located at the basement a/c unit.
 
John Stephens said:
John Canfield may give you a better or more accurate reply, but according to my mechanic, there are two problem spots on basement a/c ductwork. You have the "Y" at the top of the rear cap where the duct from the a/c unit splits to service both sides of the coach's ceiling vents, and you also have the spot where mine went bad - halfway up the back of the rear cap where the duct work is put together. There are two straight pieces of duct work that have to fit together and are taped at the factory.
You did good with the answer!  Also near the bottom of the duct run and where it enters the AC unit itself needs to be checked

The tape has a problem with coming loose and allowing the two pieces of ductwork to separate. I could stick my hand up inside of the rear cap and feel the cold air coming out; I was losing half of my a/c out the back of the coach. My mechanic used eternabond and essentially welded the two pieces together before retaping and guaranteed me it would never come apart again. To a smaller extent, you might have a problem where the ductwork connects to the blower located at the basement a/c unit.
Super solution by your mechanic using the Etrnabond!  Kudos to him.  The rear cap can be unfastened and be pulled back for duct access - I think I have an article on my RV pages on my website about a fellow figuring out how to accomplice that seemingly most difficult task.

Another way to check for leaks is to feel the rear cap for temperature differences or if your real anal like me, use a non-contact IR thermometer to check.
 
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