Basement Electric Heat won't come on.

[Mooneypaul]

I have a 2006 Adventurer.  The outside temperature is 56.  The inside of the coach is 70 degrees.  I set the thermostat to 71 degrees (since I read on this forum that if more than 4 degrees gas would come on).  After the temp goes down inside the coach, the gas burner still comes on.  I cannot get the heat pump to turn on.

Yesterday it was hot, so the AC was on.  This morning when I switched to electric heat, the compressor tried to start but stopped. I do think that the thermostat exceeded the 4 degree differential when I first turned it on.  Now it does not even try to start.  BTW I am connected to a 50 AMP electric source.

How can I get the compressor to try to start again?


Edit by John: changed message icon to Topic Solved

 

[John Canfield]

Hi Paul, glad to have you join us.  Check on the RVP website for troubleshooting directions - fairly certain there is a service manual there.

 

[Alfa38User]

Are you sure BOTH compressors tried to start up? (You have listen carefully!!!) Both are needed for 'electric' (heat pump) heat to work and they should, if you are on a 50 amp site. If this fails, the furnace kicks in automagically  if a heat request is still present. And ... you are correct about the 4? differential  Setting the thermostat to "OFF" for a few minutes should reset everything.

I am living with this problem now, the 2nd compressor does not start and I suspect the relay in the AC unit has failed. As a work around on MY trailer, I have the 50A/30/A site selector set to 30 amps to get at least some air using the first compressor alone, no heat pump.... (Don't know what arrangement a Winnibago has for site selection, if any, but it is likely controlled through the "one place"(?) system.)

 

[afchap]

Yes, the gas furnace will come on if more than a 4 degree heat differential is called for. HOWEVER, unless the heat pump is locked out due to it being too cold outside (normally around high 30's) the heat pump will ALSO be on along with the gas furnace.

Anytime the heat pump or AC shits down ...even if it was on only briefly ...there is a delay of apx 2 min before it can turn on again. That protects the compressor from over-pressure.

The compressor tried to start but did not make it ...sounds like a burned start capacitor. It is easily serviced by opening the body panel and removing the cover on the electronics. Many owners have learned to do the replacement themselves, but it should not be expensive for any certified service place to do ...or even a home air tech. If you go for a certified tech, go to the RV Comfort website and check for service locations for basement units.

I believe I am correct to say that both compressors are NOT needed for the unit to provide heat in the Winnie setup. However, in any case, #1 MUST be running for #2 to come on. No start at all tells me the failed compressor is #1 ...be it start cap or whatever.  Also, the Winnie setup can run both compressors on less than 30a.

 

[Alfa38User]

I believe I am correct to say that both compressors are NOT needed for the unit to provide heat in the Winnie setup.

My RVP service manual says "Heat operation always energizes BOTH stages, however, only stage one operates if power is not available to circuit 2"  What it does NOT say in that paragraph is that the heat pump will not work under that condition but....

As far as the furnace AND heat pump running at the same time, very possible but that is dependant on the thermostat model. Mine doesn't and it is clearly stated that way in the manual. Mine is a model 6535A335* whereas model 6535A336* will run both simultaneously)

I know I did read that 'somewhere' in these manuals before as well as reading, maybe in my trailer manual, that the heat pump does NOT work on 30 amp sites because the 2nd compressor does not function. Maybe with a 30/50 amp adapter cord it will work in the Winnies because both sides of the power supply or breaker box are powered up (but only up to a max of 30 amps total of course). I will keep looking.... (Series 6536  manuals for two ton models)  Both stages functioning  will draw 28.5 amps in my model, so maybe doable, but don't inhale too deeply heh heh!!

My trailer has a manual 30A/50A/ site selector switch for disabling the second compressor (That is ALL it does actually but there is also an outside plug available to which I can attach a second supply of 20 amps (the next door neighbours!!  ) to get both stages up and running when at a 30amp site.)  I am sure the Winnies are much more sophisticated.

 

[Mooneypaul]

Thank you guys. I shut it all off for awhile and then set the therm for a one degree diff.  Turned it on and the electric heat came on.  I guess the heat pump was still locked out.  Thanks for your help.

 

[Alfa38User]

Glad you got it fixed. This is a complex system with all the interaction between the thermostat, the AC/heat pump and furnace.

 

[John Canfield]

Glad you got it fixed. This is a complex system with all the interaction between the thermostat, the AC/heat pump and furnace.

Yes!