Dometic RM2604 igniter

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
See posts with no answers
I

ihuntifish

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2024
Posts
15
Location
SW Washington
Bought my 92 Lance camper back after a few years without it. Replaced my igniter on my RM2604 3 way refer now it lights fine but never stops sparking, is that normal? I thought it used to stop sparking once it had lit. Its been awhile..;.;..
 
Try unplugging and then replugging the ignitor wire, and the connectors on the control board. This will help clean the corrosion, if any, from them and make fresh contact. Its free, worth a try and its surprising what this will sometimes fix.

Charles
 
The probe that supplies the spark also senses the heat from the burning propane and must be in or very close to the flame for it to work. The fact that it sparks and the propane ignites shows that part is working but it also must detect the heat as that is what tells it to stop sparking. Low propane pressure is also a possibility but check the physical location of that probe first.
 
OK I readjusted the electrode to over 3/16 of an inch and still keeps sparking to the burner or the thermocouple if the electrode is too far from the burner, flame looks good too. Igniters are few and far between and can be spendy. Got any ideas? Electrode?
 
OldWEB said:
When the flame lights, the resistance between the electrode and burner decreases, the igniter senses this and quits sending high voltage to the electrode.
Click to expand...
While that isn't exactly how it works, it is close enough for this situation. It actually sends a very small voltage back to the circuit board but, unless you plan to troubleshoot the circuit board it really doesn't matter how that works, only if it works. Since you have replaced the probe and nothing has changed, I suspect that your problem may be the circuit board. Those are very difficult to troubleshoot and the manufacturers do not supply much help. If you do change the circuit board, I recommend that you get one from Dinosaur Electronics, rather then an OEM part. I have found Dinosaur to have better quality, longer warranty, and better support, while costing less.
 
Kirk said:
While that isn't exactly how it works, it is close enough for this situation. It actually sends a very small voltage back to the circuit board but, unless you plan to troubleshoot the circuit board it really doesn't matter how that works, only if it works. Since you have replaced the probe and nothing has changed, I suspect that your problem may be the circuit board. Those are very difficult to troubleshoot and the manufacturers do not supply much help. If you do change the circuit board, I recommend that you get one from Dinosaur Electronics, rather then an OEM part. I have found Dinosaur to have better quality, longer warranty, and better support, while costing less.
Click to expand...
Those were not my words... that is why I quote what others say and provide the link to said quote as I am providing info I am not certain about, just offering info. As "Dave" mentions if it lowers resistance, then any voltage on the probe will send a milli/microamp flow thru the circuit or as you mention a thermocouple will produce a voltage, I dunno which. Please provide a link to how it actually works, cuz I cannot find info on this old style, I was very happy to find Daves Place, a trove of old equipment info, a permanent link for sure.
Now OP, as mentioned try contacting Dinosaur... I am out of ideas. :(
 
If the electrode is cracked (even hairline) or wet, it will ground out and make the igniter "think" the flame is lit, and therefore not spark.
Do you think you could take a screwdriver and 'ground' the electrode?
And what is the squarish item that is above the flame in the back, the gas valve thermocouple?

EDIT: Also you mention "I readjusted the electrode to over 3/16 of an inch" - Why? The instructions say 3/16th, maybe reset it and clean the porcelain and probe wire with alcohol.
 
Last edited:
I readjusted the electrode before the pic above back to 3/16 and yes the thermocouple is above the electrode which is original. I had replaced the original ignitor which was bad with a used one off ebay. I tried moving the probe around while it was sparking but didnt seem to matter where I moved it and the spark seems to even jump 1/2 inch and if I move the tip of the electrode back far enough then it jumps from the base of the electrode to the burner jet. I could try replacing the electrode but seems to be no undue resistance there. I do really appreciate you guys and your efforts though.
 
OldWEB said:
Those were not my words... that is why I quote what others say and provide the link to said quote as I am providing info I am not certain about, just offering info. As "Dave" mentions if it lowers resistance, then any voltage on the probe will send a milli/microamp flow thru the circuit or as you mention a thermocouple will produce a voltage, I dunno which. Please provide a link to how it actually works, cuz I cannot find info on this old style, I was very happy to find Daves Place, a trove of old equipment info, a permanent link for sure.
Now OP, as mentioned try contacting Dinosaur... I am out of ideas. :(
Click to expand...
it doesn't have a board per say just a 7 pole switch and the igniter and I went through the switch and only 1 pole #4 is used for gas operation and 1 pole #7 for the refer light the others are for 12v and 120v operation. I don't see anything on Dinosaur's site to fit the bill. I have found the service manual online and it's nothing you guys haven't thrown out there.
 
Again,
If the electrode is cracked (even hairline) or wet, it will ground out and make the igniter "think" the flame is lit, and therefore not spark.
Do you think you could take a screwdriver and 'ground' the electrode? It would quit sparking, but will it make any noise like it is still trying to spark?
 
OldWEB said:
Again,
If the electrode is cracked (even hairline) or wet, it will ground out and make the igniter "think" the flame is lit, and therefore not spark.
Do you think you could take a screwdriver and 'ground' the electrode? It would quit sparking, but will it make any noise like it is still trying to spark?
Click to expand...
OK I tried that and it does stop when grounded but starts again as soon as contact is removed it gets quieter the closer the screwdriver is to ground. I tried it both with flame and without no change.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Members online

Total: 763 (members: 7, guests: 756)

Forum statistics

Threads
131,990
Posts
1,388,721
Members
137,736
Latest member
Savysoaker
Back
Top Bottom