If you boondock a lot . . .

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
The absorption fridges with a 12v mode used 12v to power a heater and draws were typically 20A-25A (240+ watts).
So the newer 12 volt fridges draw around one-third of a totally ridiculous draw. Would not be much of an issue if several hundred AHs are available from a lith battery, as in my old RV listed below.

But the 2022 Thor Axis I was looking at only has a small battery box with two rather small L/A batteries. And draws 8 amps just from the refrigerator. That's nothing when the engine is running or when having shore power, but the genny would have to get a work out when boondocked. There are 100W of solar on the roof, but how often is that going to keep up?

BTW, I have a portable 100Ws worth I can add and it would not be difficult to connect it up to the Thor battery. But adding battery would require some drilling and such to this 2022 RV.

BTW, do you know what the 5 amp "night mode" does in these DC fridges?

I am undecided if this should be a deal killer or not on a 2022 Thor Axis. I like most everything else.

What is your advice, should it be a deal killer or not for somebody who boondocks about half the time and sometimes for weeks at one time?

-Don- Auburn, CA
 
In my opinion,, another advantage for the 120V fridg. is most are LARGER than the absorbs ions that I have owned over the years before I switched to the one I have now.. I gained over three cubic feet of space..>>>Dan
 
Last edited:
In my opinion,, another advantage for the 120V fridg. is most are LARGER that the absorbs ions that I have owned over the years before I switched to the one I have now.. I gained over three cubic feet of space..>>>Dan
120 V? Did you mean 12V?

-Don- Auburn, CA
 
Can't do a poll here?

Anyway, my question is . . .

If you boondock a lot . . . Would you consider a NEW RV with a 12 Volt ONLY refrigerator?

-Don- Reno, NV

Absolutely not.

We Boondock almost exclusively, and I have 1230 watts of solar, with 6 gc-2's. More than enough to run an electric fridge -- in sunny conditions. But, it is not always Sunny in Arizona and SoCal in the winter, when we 'snowbird'. When it is cloudy for 3 or 4 days, with our absorption fridge we still have enough power for our needs. But we would have to run a generator occasionally if we had an electric fridge.

When we leave Canada in December, I don't plug in again until I am back home in March or April -- and never run the generator either. We crave the quiet, which a generator destroys.

Now, if you Boondock only occasionally, or only for a weekend, everything changes. Decide before you buy what it is that you want to do.

As to a comment here further up about buying emergency propane on a Sunday, just plan ahead. We have two 30lb bottles on the tongue of our TT, and two more in the bed of the pickup. We never run out of propane either, not even in Montana in the winter.

As to comments about trailers built for RV parks and those built for boondocking, I would think that those are already available -- if you know what you want, and choose well to begin with. If you are buying a new unit, you should be able to specify what you want. Remember that RV manufacturers usually choose the cheapest options -- not the best ones.

We are on our third trailer since we started over 20 years ago, and all of them have had propane fridges. The technology has been around since 1858. If they are properly built and maintained, they are safe.
 
In my opinion,, another advantage for the 120V fridg. is most are LARGER than the absorbs ions that I have owned over the years before I switched to the one I have now.. I gained over three cubic feet of space..>>>Dan
Agreed. However there are larger double-door absorption fridges available as well if one chooses the right coach.
 
Absolutely not.

We Boondock almost exclusively, and I have 1230 watts of solar, with 6 gc-2's. More than enough to run an electric fridge -- in sunny conditions. But, it is not always Sunny in Arizona and SoCal in the winter, when we 'snowbird'. When it is cloudy for 3 or 4 days, with our absorption fridge we still have enough power for our needs. But we would have to run a generator occasionally if we had an electric fridge.

When we leave Canada in December, I don't plug in again until I am back home in March or April -- and never run the generator either. We crave the quiet, which a generator destroys.

Now, if you Boondock only occasionally, or only for a weekend, everything changes. Decide before you buy what it is that you want to do.

As to a comment here further up about buying emergency propane on a Sunday, just plan ahead. We have two 30lb bottles on the tongue of our TT, and two more in the bed of the pickup. We never run out of propane either, not even in Montana in the winter.

As to comments about trailers built for RV parks and those built for boondocking, I would think that those are already available -- if you know what you want, and choose well to begin with. If you are buying a new unit, you should be able to specify what you want. Remember that RV manufacturers usually choose the cheapest options -- not the best ones.

We are on our third trailer since we started over 20 years ago, and all of them have had propane fridges. The technology has been around since 1858. If they are properly built and maintained, they are safe.
 
When we leave Canada in December, I don't plug in again until I am back home in March or April -- and never run the generator either. We crave the quiet, which a generator destroys.
That would be great if they built a few small Class A's as if money was no object to some people, but that is not reality, especially in small Class A's. I felt the 2022 Thor Axis I looked at was built somewhat cheap, but was within reason and would out last me anyway. But the big turn off was the 8 amp draw at 12V.

I have mixed feelings about needing to run a generator, as long as it isn't too often. Once every few days would be fine and that is probably what my old RV can now do with the 300AH lith battery and a couple of hundred watts of solar. But this is all stuff I added myself and would be more difficult in the new RV.

-Don- Donner Summit Rest stop, CA, free fast charging my new shinny red 2022 Chevy Bolt Hatchback purchased a few hours before the big recall!! I assume I was the very last person in the USA to buy one, they can no longer be sold. Cost to Chevy will be ~1.5 BILLION dollars! FWIW, I like this Bolt as much as my Tesla M3, LR, AWD, but they are difficult to compare for many reasons.
 
Last edited:
Thanks my mind is made up . I'm sticking with what I have and learn to live with it . That's my newly acquired Dometic 2862 propane & 120v Electric. If I run my gen for 30 min evey 24 hrs i can live like a king with no worries
 
No, I would not consider it. I am well equipped for boondocking but for solar power. Electrical power is harder to provide than propane. My 4) 5 yr old GC2 battery pack will be depleted LONG before I run out of propane.
 
That would be great if they built a few small Class A's as if money was no object to some people, but that is not reality, especially in small Class A's.

My solar setup is self designed (with help from this forum) and installed. Not much of any value available from the manufacturers.

But this is all stuff I added myself and would be more difficult in the new RV.

Yep. Ya gotta do what works for you. And if it works for you, then that is all that matters. 😊👍
 
Thanks my mind is made up . I'm sticking with what I have and learn to live with it . That's my newly acquired Dometic 2862 propane & 120v Electric. If I run my gen for 30 min evey 24 hrs i can live like a king with no worries

The only thing that matters is if it works for you. 😊
 
Some of you folks talk like it has to one or the other,, nothing wrong with ALL THREE AC- DC- propane & solar.. You makes your choices and learn to live with it..>>>Dan




Dan
I certainly would love to have the modern DC and LPG in the same refrigerator. I wonder if that would even be possible to design.

Maybe if we complain enough it will get designed and become the new standard.

The 12VDC only one deserves complaints for any long tern boondocking.

I cannot think of a decent reason to have a 120 VAC input on such a refrigerator as the converter takes care of that for us anyway.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
I certainly would love to have the modern DC and LPG in the same refrigerator. I wonder if that would even be possible to design.

Maybe if we complain enough it will get designed and become the new standard.

The 12VDC only one deserves complaints for any long tern boondocking.

I cannot think of a decent reason to have a 120 VAC input on such a refrigerator as the converter takes care of that for us anyway.

-Don- Reno, NV
That's my only regret I have is that my unit doesn't run on 12v . I thought it did .I made a rookie mistake and thought it was a three way unit. I didn't realize until I got it in my coach that it was a 2 way.

I thought because it required 12v to operate that it was a three way . Ok i didn't research it as good as i should have. I went off half cocked because it was a good deal.

And im tired of buying ice everyday 😆
 
That's my only regret I have is that my unit doesn't run on 12v .
The older (1980's) 12V selections are rather useless, IMO. A buddy of mine has a 3-way and the book says 12V operation is designed to keep things cool, not get them cool. IOW, be sure the refrigerator is already at ~38F before selecting 12VDC. And make sure to remember to go back to propane when done driving, if you don't want a dead house battery in a few minutes.

I guess those are the days that we were expected to keep our propane tanks off while driving.

I would think the modern 12V units would be great for everything (driving and when having shore power) except boondocking, but I have no experience at all with them.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
The older (1980's) 12V selections are rather useless, IMO. A buddy of mine has a 3-way and the book says 12V operation is designed to keep things cool, not get them cool. IOW, be sure the refrigerator is already at ~38F before selecting 12VDC. And make sure to remember to go back to propane when done driving, if you don't want a dead house battery in a few minutes.

I guess those are the days that we were expected to keep our propane tanks off while driving.

I would think the modern 12V units would be great for everything (driving and when having shore power) except boondocking, but I have no experience at all with them.

-Don- Reno, NV
Ok that makes sense to me 12v was meant to maintain rather than to take over. Ok that's why I've been hearing about 12v not being as cold as the other two sources.

Well that makes me feel better . I was thinking i was missing something not having 12v. The way i mostly use my MH not only will i miss it I won't even need it.

Boondocking from one spot to another mostly in a 25 mile radius sometimes on shore power and sometimes not . Between the shore power and the gen and the gas I'll do just fine .

My biggest worry will be trying to be parked on the level. It will be nice to make ice instead of buying ice everyday.
 
Last edited:
I was thinking i was missing something not having 12v.
IMO, you do not even want the 12V choice to be available on the older units.

IMO, it was a good thing they removed that choice. At least in most cases. My Y2K has no such 12V choice and I don't want it to even be available.

But it was very stupid to remove the LPG choice in the newer rigs. I will not even use "IMO" there because the facts are the facts and the fact is an 8 amp draw, perhaps for most of the day. But this is only an issue when boondocked.

Better than the 20 amp draw of the 1980 refrigerators when DC is selected, and no doubt those didn't work nearly as well as the modern 8 amp refrigerators. But the modern 12V ones have no other selections.

If I could only have one selection it would be LPG. Even at a full hookup RV park we can all get by with an LPG only refrigerator and that is perfect for boondocking.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
Back
Top Bottom