I'm scared.....

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srs713 said:
One thing I have wondered about when thinking of extreme climates is setting up a canvas "garage" over the RV. I wonder just how much the layer of air between the RV wall and the canvas would help with heating or cooling the inside of the RV?

I'm guessing it would help, but not be acceptable to a lot of campground owners :/  but I know nothing so don't listen to me :p

I don't consider 90 degrees during the day extreme, though.  And I don't think in today's age of amazing materials it should be that tough to engineer something much better than appears to be available.  Of course, there may be less demand that I seem to think from only a couple weeks worth of reading.... I also don't understand (other than weight) what the big deal is about thicker walls for more insulation...  "We can put a man on the moon" and all that.....
 
HAH!  I found the answer.... I think.  Lithium batteries... a little more than 1/3 the weight, can be discharged to 20% with no problem, charge time is dramatically less and consistent up to 100%, much less maintenance and the new formulations (specifically Lithium Iron Phosphate) do NOT catch fire like the pre-1996 versions.  I can easily double the normal amount of onboard juice for less weight, hassle and drama.  More cost, yes, but at 2000-5000 cycles, it sounds like it would last many years.  Add 1kw of solar and a boosting whatchamacallit and it looks like I'm in like Flynn....

Also see here for a system that is proven to work:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0rZY5uotKI  Again, I would have a larger battery bank.

Equipment list: http://www.gonewiththewynns.com/off-grid-solar-rv-air-conditioning

Feel free to have a look at a system half the size I would install here:  http://www.technomadia.com/lithium/

Thoughts are appreciated.
 
A lithium battery is definitely a big plus, with the lower weight and far less voltage drop-off. Takes about the same physical space, though.

As for the insulation and wall thickness, RV makers build for the volume market and most people are more impressed by the interior decor and space than the R-value. And a lower price. RV manufacturers that tried to offer more effective/efficient designs have repeatedly floundered and failed, providing an object lesson for those that remain. And for the new owners that purchased the bankrupt outfit.  Your wants & needs are those of a very small portion of the buying public.  I'm not saying you are incorrect, but it's a fact of life.

You are, however, missing one salient fact about any RV.  The size and shape means that just about every inch of wall is an exterior wall and thus transferring heat. And even just one person breathing in a small room contributes both heat and moisture to a surprising degree. Cooling an RV is not at all like cooling a house and it typically takes at least double the btus to cool even a small area. A 30-35 ft RV typically needs 25k-30k btus to keep in the 70's inside, whereas that much a/c would probably handle 1000 sq ft of house.
 
Gary RV Roamer said:
A lithium battery is definitely a big plus, with the lower weight and far less voltage drop-off. Takes about the same physical space, though.

As for the insulation and wall thickness, RV makers build for the volume market and most people are more impressed by the interior decor and space than the R-value. And a lower price. RV manufacturers that tried to offer more effective/efficient designs have repeatedly floundered and failed, providing an object lesson for those that remain. And for the new owners that purchased the bankrupt outfit.  Your wants & needs are those of a very small portion of the buying public.  I'm not saying you are incorrect, but it's a fact of life.

You are, however, missing one salient fact about any RV.  The size and shape means that just about every inch of wall is an exterior wall and thus transferring heat. And even just one person breathing in a small room contributes both heat and moisture to a surprising degree. Cooling an RV is not at all like cooling a house and it typically takes at least double the btus to cool even a small area. A 30-35 ft RV typically needs 25k-30k btus to keep in the 70's inside, whereas that much a/c would probably handle 1000 sq ft of house.

The battery bank size will be determined partially by the power storage density and lithium is 2.5 times as dense as lead acid.  My quick investigations would show that there will be a considerable size savings.  Also, over the life of the battery, the cost for equivalent number of cycles is considerably less.... actually less than half as you can see in the chart here: http://www.technomadia.com/2011/11/lithium-update-3-lithium-battery-cost/.  Remembering of course that you'll be discharging the Lithium to 20% remaining while only going to 50% with the lead acid.  Add to that the low/no maintenance, no fumes/fire risk and this is certainly the way to go I think.  Of course, it will all get MUCH better in 5 years if Elon Musk decides to adapt his current "Powerwall" offering to RVs :) https://www.teslamotors.com/powerwall

I assumed market forces were what has shaped the current offerings, I'm just an odd duck I suppose.  Luckily it would appear that there is some hope, based on the response I just received from North American, quoted for your convenience below.  Thank you for the link yesterday, it appears to have been invaluable. :) 

Coupled with the new power information, I now think it's possible to design a unit that will allow for chilling the air continuously in a segregated space for up to 12 hours at a time on battery only.  One that is supplemented by solar and a generator that would allow for extended stays "unhooked" in the right conditions.  This aspect of the unit would not have been in any way a deal breaker in my overall plan, but knowing it's at least possible allows me to add an dimension to things that I think will substantially enhance my quality of life for an extended period.

I'm going to look forward to seeing what North American has to say as I dig in to more details.  I copy and paste his email below because it really amounts to just a short selling piece and I'm sure he won't mind.  If there's an interest, I'll get his OK to share the process as we go along, but I think I've found the folks that can make what I'm looking for.  Because they also do "work" trailers of various sorts, they're used to function over form and seem to be able to produce just what I'll need, at least as a base to work from.  It will be interesting to see how far I'll have to go for the solar/lithium work, but maybe they can do that, too.  Here's the response:

*********************
Thank you for contacting North American Custom Built RV.

Due to the fact that about 80%of our customer base are either full or nearly full time RVers, we  offer up to R-52 Insulation value in our units. A good share of our customer base live in their units and move with their work. We offer this heavy insulation package a couple different ways.  1.  A  true year round Winter Pack includes up to R-52  (R-14 Double insulation and then R-38 Reflectant Foil Wrap insulation), plus heated holding tanks, Fully enclosed underbelly with  enclosed dump valves. The R-38 Foil Wrap was developed for NASSA to insulate the space shuttles. We have had great success with this in addition to our double fiberglass R 14 Insulation.  We have a customer we built a 3 bedroom 54’ Fifth Wheel who was working in North Dakota last year on the pipeline and he as well as several others, have raved about how easily the unit heats & cools.  2. You can get this in an Al-a-cart version if you don’t want the cold weather pkg and you are only I warmer climates.

Adding Thermal insulated windows is the next key element to this equation making these unit as close to a house type insulation quality available in our industry.
*********************

I would say having 1200 Ah of battery, 1kw of solar and a 8kw generator would put me in a position to do just about anything I want :)  I'll have to go with a toy hauler shell so I can convert part of the garage to be a "power room" probably, and give myself enough roof space to get most/all of the solar panels up there.  I'll want to bring additional gas and water, too, I think, so a garage would be handy for that, not to mention the show junk I'll accumulate if I decide to do any performing as well as competing.  Longer overall unit but still a dually 1 ton should do it, letting me have the freedom to at least "tent in" to the places I can't stay at because it will be too big. 

Yes... I'm thinking this is entirely possible now.  Thanks again for your help.
 
I don't know where you plan to travel, but the good news is that in the drier states, even in summer, the nights can get downright cold.  I try to avoid 90 degrees and up during the day, but I can tell you that in the southwest, a lot of times I run the AC in the daytime and then switch to heater as soon as the sun sets.  For example, a couple of days ago, it was 86 during the day and dropped down to 40 that night.  And last night, near Taos, NM, it was 77 during the day and dropped to 30 that night. 

Unless you have a reason to stay in one area of the country, the nice thing about an RV is that you can move north if it is too hot and south if it is too cold!  I try to stay in areas where days are 70-85 and nights are chilly.
 
Let me address the sleeping comfortably at night issue as 70 degrees is my cutoff as well.  I spent 5 months last year in Central Texas off grid with a large dog in a mid range 32' TT.  I have a 200w solar system and 220ah of batteries.

A small 2kw inverter generator like a Honda or Yamaha is a nice addition.  Lightweight, quiet, miserly on fuel. These models will NOT run a rooftop AC unit.

Ventilation fan(s) like the Fan-Tastic model are worth their weight in gold.  They draw little power and will run easily all night on a single house battery.  Opening a bedroom window and allowing the fan(s) to draw fresh air across the bed will extend your comfortable sleeping range quite a bit.

Around mid-June I found the RV too hot to lounge in by around 1pm daily.

I installed a 5k BTU window AC in the bedroom  out of necessity.  The small generator ran it handily all night on around 1 gallon of fuel.  Normal routine was to turn the generator/AC on approx one hour before retiring and close the bedroom door.  It was cooled nicely by the time I went to bed.

The generator was routinely run for an hour or so morning and evening for coffee, microwave, top off the batteries etc.  I survived June, July and August and saw temps go north of 100 degrees on many days.  I lived to talk about it.  8)

 
AndyJ said:
Let me address the sleeping comfortably at night issue as 70 degrees is my cutoff as well.  I spent 5 months last year in Central Texas off grid with a large dog in a mid range 32' TT.  I have a 200w solar system and 220ah of batteries.

A small 2kw inverter generator like a Honda or Yamaha is a nice addition.  Lightweight, quiet, miserly on fuel. These models will NOT run a rooftop AC unit.

Ventilation fan(s) like the Fan-Tastic model are worth their weight in gold.  They draw little power and will run easily all night on a single house battery.  Opening a bedroom window and allowing the fan(s) to draw fresh air across the bed will extend your comfortable sleeping range quite a bit.

Around mid-June I found the RV too hot to lounge in by around 1pm daily.

I installed a 5k BTU window AC in the bedroom  out of necessity.  The small generator ran it handily all night on around 1 gallon of fuel.  Normal routine was to turn the generator/AC on approx one hour before retiring and close the bedroom door.  It was cooled nicely by the time I went to bed.

The generator was routinely run for an hour or so morning and evening for coffee, microwave, top off the batteries etc.  I survived June, July and August and saw temps go north of 100 degrees on many days.  I lived to talk about it.  8)

Glad to hear your experience on such a light weight system :)  I think the inclusion of a "soft start" http://www.fairford.com/product/hfe/ might help expand the range of what the overhead 13.5btu unit would "run" on.  There will be R52 insulation in floors/walls/ceiling and I was thinking that with the door closed and only cooling the bed/bath it won't run all that much anyway as far as overnight...  I'll definitely be having vent fans in all three (if I go with a 40' trailer) ceiling vents :)

The way it looks now, I'll probably have a roof covered with solar panels (maybe as much as 2000 watts, talking to Starlight now) with a min. 1200Ah (960Ah usable) lithium battery bank and that should get me by most times with no generator usage.  With hydronic heating for those cold overnights and a super miserly fridge (still working on research there) I have to say I think living reasonably comfortably with no generator hum will be possible most of the time :) 

All depending on weather of course... and generator time is inevitable I know.  I just want to minimize it as much as possible.  I don't want to be "that guy" when I'm around other folks and I want to enjoy the peace and quiet when I'm alone :)
 
In my own battery research I also stumbled across Technomad from Technomadia and I got the impression that Lithium batteries need just as much or more maintenance than Flooded cell/AGM lead acid batteries. I surmised that it was not the Li batteries themselves that were troublesome, but a lack of available support components, namely a good charge controller.

In regards to the air conditioning: I live with my wife in a small 24ft. travel trailer. When Boondocking off grid, my Onan 2.5 kw Propane generator was enough to run the AC unit, fridge, microwave, and water heater simultaneously. I realize you will have greater power needs but I wanted to give you another reference point.

Many "toy hauler" models come standard with an onboard fuel station and a gasoline generator. I think the cost of getting a super quiet custom muffler job would be cheaper and less hassle than the maintenance on a large solar array. This would save space as well.

Cheers.
 
TheJuggler said:
  Even if I stay in temperate climates, I have to get the bedroom down to about 70 at night or no sleepy for the juggler....

We just hook up a clip-on fan at night pointed toward the bed and that keeps things nice and cool at night. (less noise than the AC, too.)  And, we also have the luxury of following the weather, whereby we are in SD or ND or somewhere north during the summer, and south during the winter.  Working with your job, however, that might not be possible....

BTW - we are from SD, too. :)  Good Luck and Enjoy Full Timing!
 
This is a semi-old thread.  Did you get your questions answered TheJuggler??  Did you end up purchasing anything?  If so, what did ya get?
 

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