Inverter won't power my fridge?

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a bigger inverter is going to use more power in idle. umm... just wondering why you want to run on batteries when you have propane?
and have you tried running on 12 volts? assuming you have this option..
 
Hi Ho:  Well, it does appear that something with the inverter is the problem.  So, check the inverter by turning on a large load (not the fridge) and see what happens.  You could use an electric heater or something like that.  This will tell you if a resistive load still causes the problem.  And, I hate to say it, but the waveform out of the inverter might be the problem.  Many RR require sine wave power to work correctly.  If your inverter is supposed to be a sin inverter you might check to see if it is.  An oscilloscope is the first thing that comes to mind, but you might not have one at hand.  If you have a true RMS meter, that (together with an averaging meter) might do it.

Anyway, check the inverter with other loads and let us know what happens, then we can talk about waveform.
 
And, I hate to say it, but the waveform out of the inverter might be the problem.  Many RR require sine wave power to work correctly.

His fridge is not a residential model, so the only thing the 120v powers is the resistive heater. Inverter wave form is not an concern with that.
 
You guys are still going on about this weeks after I've given up on the inverter  :)
It slowly became worse to the point that it would show an overload condition just with a 60 watt AC bulb.  Plugging my laptop in to charge it would start to send it to overload too.  Out at the inverter, the vibrating noise coming from it was pretty obvious.
I haven't ordered a new one yet, the RV is in the shop getting all the preventative maintenance after the 3k mile trip to/from FL.  It's also below zero up here in upstate NY and I wouldn't be able to install it yet anyway with this weather. 
I'm thinking of really 'beefing' up the RV's boondocking capability.  The coach batteries are 4 GC2HD 6v.  They give strong specific gravity readings and hold a charge really well.  But together, they only produce about 450Ah (C/20).  I was thinking of boosting the inverter to somewhere around 2500-3000 watts.  I'd like to add a couple more CG2's, but the drawer wouldn't fit them (or likely take the additional 120lbs) /

What do you think about adding two more GC2's in a different location?  I could try to keep the cable run down to under 4 feet?  I could also add about 500 watts of solar and a charge controller. 

My goal is to get a long weekend out of the batteries, running the TV, sat dish, a few lights, laptop, pump, etc.  The hot water heater and fridge could run on propane..

 

 
 
Can you believe after all these months that I need to revisit this issue?  :)
Well, the weather finally improved and I could spend time replacing this ailing RV2012.
So I started to shop for inverters and realized that I better make 'super sure' that the old one was set up as a split-phase in and split-phase out.  Sure enough it's not!
It was originally wired with a single 120 Hot1 in and a single 120 Hot1 out.  The Hot2 in and out are not connected.  The old RV2012 instructions say that if a single 120 connection is to be used, it should be connected to both the Hot1 and Hot2 in/out.
My inverter was never set up that way.  Also the wire coming to the inverter is 10/2 with ground, not 10/3.

So given all this;
Should I even try to wire it up correctly?  If it's been running all these years this way, I can't see why wiring it correctly now would make a difference..  It's still a bad inverter, right?

I guess I have to replace this with an inverter that will handle single in/single out?  Can I get to 2500 watts doing this?

Thanks!
 
If you do buy a new inverter make sure it is a pure sine wave and not modified. I purchased a modified for my rv and had problems running  a coffee pot or microwave. They would work on modified but took twice the time to heat somthing. I had to replace the modified inverter with a pure sine wave and now it works great. Also a good investment is a decent charger. I was always overcharging the battery with the old rv charger/inverter.
 
Interesting about the dual hots in & out - will have to check my RV2512 for the same thing. I thought there was only one inverter in these units, but maybe I'm wrong. I'm away from the coach so can't check right now.

In any case, you had power in and power out on that single line for years, so I don't see that the wiring problem (if there is one) applies to your fridge problem. You should be able to get at least 1000w on that single output line.
 
I just checked the manual for myRV2512 and that statement about twin hots in & out is in the section on stacked (dual) inverters. There doesn't seem to be any equivalent statement for single inverter configurations and the only wiring diagram is for use with an external transfer relay and 240v system.  The "Mobile Installation" diagram only shows one in & out, but that diagram is nowhere near as detailed as the other one.
 
Well, for what it's worth..
I replaced the unit with a Magna 2812 - which also accepts dual in/dual out.  But one of the wiring options is to wire it single in/single out.  So I treated the new one like a drop-in replacement of the old one.
Fridge runs great.  (draws 23 amps @ 12v) which, to me, seems about right.  Even the microwave runs and draws about 140amps without the inverter monitor complaining.  I didn't want to push it too hard  :)

I'll bet the old one just needs capacitor replacement.  If anyone wants to drive to zip 14512, they're welcome to it.  It charges batteries just fine.  But it will only invert about 200watts of AC power before complaining and shutting down..

Thanks for the help everyone!
 
About 5 years ago I had to replace the circuit board in my RV2512 for essentially the same problem. Inverter faulted under most any significant load. Xantrex no longer made parts for it, but luckily I found a repair shop in Tampa that still had one on hand.
 
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