It's roof time!

[thesameguy]

Hi all -

We had some intense weather last winter, the result of which was a tree branch landing on the roof and tearing up the rubber of our '93 Southwind. It was not a big branch, but the wind was intense. If I'm honest, it was no great loss - the roof is obviously quite old, and for the short money we paid for the rig we have gotten exceptional value. If our relationship ended today, we wouldn't be sad. Insurance paid us out, which certainly doesn't hurt the equation.

That said, the Southwind does everything we want it to and does it well. So, before wet weather sets in we are going to attempt to replace the roof. Yes, I realize it's a big task.

I'm fairly certain I'm going to go with the LaSalle XTRM PVC material ... it seems to be a good option overall and the manufacturer has been very responsive to my questions, which I enjoy.

i have three questions I am hoping someone can answer for me:

1. One of the tears is around the AC, and there was some water intrusion. I caught it the next day and tarped the roof, but there is a 6" square soft spot. No damage elsewhere, and we had two more months of very wet weather so it would have shown up by now. I'm sure I will be replacing some outer plywood there... any tips on sectioning and replacing?

2. The edges of the roof are radiused, not square. The roof is retained on the sides with a trim bar, which is riveted on. Any tips for removing it beyond "drill?" How is it replaced? To what do the rivets attach?

3. The branch took out the chimney for fridge and what I believe is the water heater. Any thoughts on what replacing those fixtures entails?

I'm up for this adventure and if it doesn't work out it's no great loss. But I think it'll be a fun experiment, and if we can get a few more trips out of the beast well worth the effort.

 

[Rene T]

How big are the tears? If you only want a few more trips out if it, why not just make repairs using Eternabond tape.
The roof cap for the fridge can be replaced. I would be looking for a rv that’s been sitting for years and make the owner an offer for his.
You mentioned water heater. There is nothing on the roof that pertains to the water heater.
Remember, this is a 30 year old rv. Do you really want to go to the expense and trouble of replacing the whole roof and maybe have something like the engine or transmission let go 1 month later. Chances are this would cause you to just junk it. I wouldn’t do it but that’s me.

 

[SeilerBird]

I agree with Rene, it is too old to invest that much time and labor into a 30 year old RV. I would be shopping for a newer RV that is the same make and model.

 

[Onyrlef]

Yep, I concur w/ the guys, patch it, replace the refer and water heater exhaust/vents, recoat the entire roof and move on.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The water heater doesn't have a roof exhaust, so you must be seeing something else. Maybe a plumbing vent? Easy

While I agree that investing a lot of $ & effort in an old motorhome is questionable finance, it's still a lot cheaper than a newer one, especially since you will DIY.

 

[CharlesinGA]

There would be no water heater vents on the roof. However, EVERYTHING has to come off the roof, totally, front to rear. The adhesive Dicor manufactures, and some others, is water based, and requires fresh wood for the water to absorb into for the adhesive to cure. Your old wood will have adhesives that block this and usually what is done, is for the entire roof to be covered in a layer of very thin Luan plywood, applied with construction adhesive and short nails. Rotted wood needs to be replaced in whole sheets for best results. Some of this depends on how your roof is made. If it is stryofoam and has the Luan glued over it, then the process is different. If it is a wood truss roof with a layer of 3/8 plywood or OSB, then you will either have to replace ever stich of it, cover it with Luan, or use an adhesive that can be applied over old adhesive (talk to technical people from the manufacturer of the adhesive for correct info on this, do not depend on others, they will lead you astray).

Look at THIS PAGE of my media on this web site, the last eleven pics are of a re-roof job I did on my Thor trailer. I replaced all wood, I sister-ed the trusses and screwed the roof plywood down, the original OSB was nailed with a million nails! I used EDPM and Dicor adhesive and sealants. It was a lot of work and I was in my shop so weather was not a concern and I was using an electric scissor lift to access the sides, making the work very easy.

If you are interested in watching videos of roof jobs, I highly recommend AZ Expert, as he has done a lot of roofs, seems to be good at them, and does excellent videos.

Charles

 

[Kirk]

3. The branch took out the chimney for fridge and what I believe is the water heater. Any thoughts on what replacing those fixtures entails?

The water heater doesn't have a roof exhaust, so you must be seeing something else. Maybe a plumbing vent? Easy

If in doubt, post a picture of the damaged vents.

 

[thesameguy]

I hear you guys on the concern putting effort into an old machine, but to be fair I got the exact same advice ten years ago... and I've got ten trouble-free years under my belt now.

The Fleetwood has 80,000 miles on it, and it never misses a beat. I've been everywhere throughout it and am extremely comfortable with its mechanical (and electrical) condition. I do nothing but work on cars in my spare time, and I'm pretty good at my ability to infer condition.

I am a big believer in "the devil you know" ... I know this devil. Selling it and getting anything else is just buying someone else's problem. The risk increases, not decreases... I know what I've done in the last decade, no idea about anyone else.

To the same end, I like to do things right. A big part of why I trust a 30 year old motorhome to get me where I'm going is because I don't bandaid things unless there is no choice. I don't wanna be somewhere and find shortcuts biting me in the ass.... I wanna do it right and continue to not worry when I'm out.

So the intent is do what I gotta do to motor and home confidently.

 

[Rene T]

Please post pictures from start to finish. This will help others down the road. Good luck. We are rooting for you.

 

[Onyrlef]

I hear you guys on the concern putting effort into an old machine, but to be fair I got the exact same advice ten years ago... and I've got ten trouble-free years under my belt now.

The Fleetwood has 80,000 miles on it, and it never misses a beat. I've been everywhere throughout it and am extremely comfortable with its mechanical (and electrical) condition. I do nothing but work on cars in my spare time, and I'm pretty good at my ability to infer condition.

I am a big believer in "the devil you know" ... I know this devil. Selling it and getting anything else is just buying someone else's problem. The risk increases, not decreases... I know what I've done in the last decade, no idea about anyone else.

To the same end, I like to do things right. A big part of why I trust a 30 year old motorhome to get me where I'm going is because I don't bandaid things unless there is no choice. I don't wanna be somewhere and find shortcuts biting me in the ass.... I wanna do it right and continue to not worry when I'm out.

So the intent is do what I gotta do to motor and home confidently.

It's yours, so you can do anything you want to it. From just my perspective, if you're not sure how to remove a rivet and the vents are chimney's, you're in for a steep learning curve peeling off and entirely repacing a roof. To add insult to injury, if you were "paid out", you may find it difficult obtaining insurance in the future.

 

[Rene T]

One other thing before you get started. The fasteners you say are rivets are probably just wood screws that take a square bit to remove them. Take a closer look. They could be rivets if there is a steel frame behind the strip of metal but if it is wood, chances are they are not rivets but screws.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Agree with Rene - the fasteners are probably not rivets. The trim cover over the roof-to-sidewall joint is typically held in place with screws. My '96 Southwind was that way. That said, RV construction can vary a lot from year to year or brand to brand.

 

[thesameguy]

It's yours, so you can do anything you want to it. From just my perspective, if you're not sure how to remove a rivet and the vents are chimney's, you're in for a steep learning curve peeling off and entirely repacing a roof. To add insult to injury, if you were "paid out", you may find it difficult obtaining insurance in the future.

I know how to remove a rivet. What I asked was what the rivet might be attached to on the other side.

There is no issue getting insurance for a vehicle after a claim. The claim was closed in January. It's still insured.

You are really over-eager to call other people ignorant. Not cool.

 

[thesameguy]

One other thing before you get started. The fasteners you say are rivets are probably just wood screws that take a square bit to remove them. Take a closer look. They could be rivets if there is a steel frame behind the strip of metal but if it is wood, chances are they are not rivets but screws.

They're definitely not screws, which is disappointing. I have everything from XZN to Posidrive... they're just round, no drive features.

Agree with Rene - the fasteners are probably not rivets. The trim cover over the roof-to-sidewall joint is typically held in place with screws. My '96 Southwind was that way. That said, RV construction can vary a lot from year to year or brand to brand.

I cannot remember where I saw it, but while researching materials some roof material manufacturer's site had a diagram showing the cross-section of a square-edged roof versus a radiused roof. For a radiused roof (like mine), they specifically showed a quarter-round metal trim under the radius, with rivets or screws holding the side bar (I believe that was their term) into the quarter-round. I'm pretty sure that's my construction.

I can certainly find out the hard way, my hope was only to gather as much of the materials in advance to limit the mount of time the roof is sitting exposed. I tried to choose the mildest, driest time of the year to do this, but weather has been wacky this year.

You guys raise a good point about ultimately there just being wood under there, so perhaps the angle here is to just use long screws and get to the wood. That could be the solution.

 

[Onyrlef]

I know how to remove a rivet. What I asked was what the rivet might be attached to on the other side.

There is no issue getting insurance for a vehicle after a claim. The claim was closed in January. It's still insured.

You are really over-eager to call other people ignorant. Not cool.

You’re the only person using that term. Otherwise, it’s merely my observation and which is fwiw, if you tarped the roof you obviously are outside and if you ‘re unsure how to remove a riveted piece of trim or what is the function of the damaged vents on the roof, you’re likely over your head in as far as tearing off and replacing a roof. I misinterpreted “paid out” on a 30 year old RV to have meant totaled, which wouldn’t take much on a rig that age and which too would mean it is now in a salvage condition. I can’t fathom an insurer paying a claim to reroof a 30 year old RV and then continuing the coverage. Seems to me they’d cut their losses. But it is what it is. Hope it works out.

 

[thesameguy]

The point of this forum and this thread in particular is to help people to learn things they don't already know. If everyone knew everything, there would be nothing to talk about. Maybe consider sharing your knowledge or just sitting back and watching. Commenting on what people who you don't know can or can't do and guessing (incorrectly) about how insurance works is not productive for anyone. If that's your contribution, I think we'll both be happier ignoring each other's posts. :/ I did my half.

 

[SeilerBird]

Smoke a fatty.

 

[thesameguy]

It's solid advice, but maybe not before spending a few days on the roof of a motorhome.

 

[thesameguy]

Rivet!

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Yeap, it's rivet. The radius roof (typical Fleetwood RV construction) has a backing strip at the top of the sidewall frame where the roof membrane laps over the sidewall. Metal in later years, but maybe just luan in older years. Whether rivet or sheet metal screw, that's what the fastener grabs into. Probably sealant under that trim strip as well. Just drill it out and peel the trim off.

Newer years usually use a metal trim strip that has a rubber insert that covers the screw/rivet head. It's a commodity available from most any RV supply source. You might consider replacing with that if the old strip gets damaged in removal.