afchap
Well-known member
True for many brands, but absolutely not the case on fiberglass Winnebago/Itasca coaches where the glass is glued to an internal metal framework just like on most newer cars.
Leaking Windshield Remedy
- Thread starter stork08
- Start date
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
blw2
Well-known member
As seen on TV!
http://www.getflexseal.com/?tag=im|sm|go|gn&a_aid=011&a_bid=a4cc8494
Sorry, I couldn't resist..... now I can't get that image out of my head of a cannon shooting a boat
Only joking as I know that you're not after a jurry-rig..... but might help to laugh.
http://www.getflexseal.com/?tag=im|sm|go|gn&a_aid=011&a_bid=a4cc8494
Sorry, I couldn't resist..... now I can't get that image out of my head of a cannon shooting a boat
Only joking as I know that you're not after a jurry-rig..... but might help to laugh.
Hello:
You posted this subject many years ago and i just now discovered it.
Thank you, thank you, thank you for sharing.
Long story short......I took M.H. into auto glass shop for quote on sealing windshield......$400.00 + tax.
After reading your article i purchased the butyl rope and installed myself......$15.00. (45 ft).
Nothing short of a breeze.......not too far away from factory perfect.
You are the best.
You posted this subject many years ago and i just now discovered it.
Thank you, thank you, thank you for sharing.
Long story short......I took M.H. into auto glass shop for quote on sealing windshield......$400.00 + tax.
After reading your article i purchased the butyl rope and installed myself......$15.00. (45 ft).
Nothing short of a breeze.......not too far away from factory perfect.
You are the best.
Hi Guys (and Ladies)
I just finished reading all of the comments on this subject and felt that I just had to put in my 2 cents Canadian
(that's 1 1/2 cents US).
First, I will introduce myself - I am a Nooby to the MH field, but not to PMTs.
I have been in the Sealant/Caulk business for over 40 years, working first for 2 manufactures (hands on) and then for the past 28 years, I have run my own business selling only sealant, caulking and coatings to various industries. You will notice below, that I refer to Sealant and Caulk, a number of times, which are different types of material. Most caulks (butyl, latex & siliconized latex) are capable of 10% movement before failing cohesively. Sealants, on the other hand, can withstand movement (stretching) of between 25-50% and even much higher.
Leaks around windshields and roofs have been one of the many headaches of most RV'rs. Most repairs are done several times to stop them. Most DIY have tried many types of Caulk or Sealant only to find large gobs of material are piled on top of other large gobs which have been applied to still smaller gobs.
The sealant around the windshield is a Urethane product, designed for Windshield installations. This product is a very high strength sealant to hold windshields in place and seal against from entering the cab. WINDSHIELDS DO NOT NORMALLY MOVE OR GET UNSEATED AFTER INSTALLATION. This can happen however, if the RV was subjected to rough road conditions causing racking or twisting. This is still quite rare. The formation of rust developing around the windshield channel or deteriation of the rubber gasket is more of a probability to cause of leakage. The use of silicone or butyl caulk is only a temporary fix. One thing to remember about silicone ----- only silicone will stick to silicone ! Do not use another sealant or caulk over silicone as it will not adhere to it. Another tip ---, remove old lose sealant/caulk before applying new material. When you apply sealant over sealant, your newly applied sealant, is only as good as the underlying sealant/caulk. The biggest cause of sealant failure is that the substrate was not cleaned adequately, causing loss of adhesion to some part of the newly applied sealant/caulk. The second cause of sealant failure is due to using the wrong product for the job. See my intro note above.
Dicor is a good sealant for roof repair ----- when it is applied correctly.
I will do a new post when I have time, on DIY roof repair and why you should do it yourself, rather than take it a repair shop - SOUND STRANGE??? Not really.
A bit of a teaser --- CRAYONS
Take care and Happy Motoring.
I just finished reading all of the comments on this subject and felt that I just had to put in my 2 cents Canadian
(that's 1 1/2 cents US).
First, I will introduce myself - I am a Nooby to the MH field, but not to PMTs.
I have been in the Sealant/Caulk business for over 40 years, working first for 2 manufactures (hands on) and then for the past 28 years, I have run my own business selling only sealant, caulking and coatings to various industries. You will notice below, that I refer to Sealant and Caulk, a number of times, which are different types of material. Most caulks (butyl, latex & siliconized latex) are capable of 10% movement before failing cohesively. Sealants, on the other hand, can withstand movement (stretching) of between 25-50% and even much higher.
Leaks around windshields and roofs have been one of the many headaches of most RV'rs. Most repairs are done several times to stop them. Most DIY have tried many types of Caulk or Sealant only to find large gobs of material are piled on top of other large gobs which have been applied to still smaller gobs.
The sealant around the windshield is a Urethane product, designed for Windshield installations. This product is a very high strength sealant to hold windshields in place and seal against from entering the cab. WINDSHIELDS DO NOT NORMALLY MOVE OR GET UNSEATED AFTER INSTALLATION. This can happen however, if the RV was subjected to rough road conditions causing racking or twisting. This is still quite rare. The formation of rust developing around the windshield channel or deteriation of the rubber gasket is more of a probability to cause of leakage. The use of silicone or butyl caulk is only a temporary fix. One thing to remember about silicone ----- only silicone will stick to silicone ! Do not use another sealant or caulk over silicone as it will not adhere to it. Another tip ---, remove old lose sealant/caulk before applying new material. When you apply sealant over sealant, your newly applied sealant, is only as good as the underlying sealant/caulk. The biggest cause of sealant failure is that the substrate was not cleaned adequately, causing loss of adhesion to some part of the newly applied sealant/caulk. The second cause of sealant failure is due to using the wrong product for the job. See my intro note above.
Dicor is a good sealant for roof repair ----- when it is applied correctly.
I will do a new post when I have time, on DIY roof repair and why you should do it yourself, rather than take it a repair shop - SOUND STRANGE??? Not really.
A bit of a teaser --- CRAYONS
Take care and Happy Motoring.
NY_Dutch
Well-known member
I've had one Class A of my own and two I worked on for other folks that had apparent windshield leaks. In all three cases, the fix was to reseal the marker lights just above the windshields. If the leak is readily repeatable with a hose, then temporary duct tape "seals" on the lights will quickly tell you if that's the problem. The rubber seals behind the lights dry out and crack. Cracked lenses will also leak.
Itascajoe
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2017
- Posts
- 26
Could someone post some pictures of the quick fix? Thanks.
Rickinnocal
New member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2017
- Posts
- 1
rsalhus said:
I think he used the right word. ShamWow is a synthetic cleaning cloth, similar to real chamois. It's yellow when dry, and goes orange when wet, making it great for finding leaks.
Richard
