location of fuel relay and no spark 92 bounder f460 mpfi

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ACE28

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Posts
12
after finally getting the gen to work (never had in known history) I tried to move on to getting the coach running again; kept it running every month all winter.  It wouldn't start prior to playing with the gen.  Figured out with a spark tester off the coil it would only spark once, sometimes, when turning off the ignition.  I replaced the control module and the coil would jump once each time I turned off the key.  After replacing the pickup coil today the coil now sparks once then twice when turning off the key.  I haven't replaced the coil in the thoughts that it is causing power to make a spark jump.  Totally frustrated I then also checked the valve on the fuel line rail and only had very minimal fuel come out, definitely not under 34lbs of pressure that I've read.  I've followed the pink wire from the tank up to the front of the coach but loose it in the very front somewhere around the radiator.  I disconnected the fuel filter on the engine side and instantly had a four inch stream of gas come out, so thinking the filter isn't plugged.  Just ahead of the filter is a connection I found quite corroded and after cleaning found the pink pin to have 1.2 volts.      I can't find a fuse or relay in the front power control center under the hood and nothing in the fuse block under the instrument panel.  I'm not sure what the "roll over" relay would look like and can't find that either.  Can't find a forum online that gives a hint and can't find anything in the owner's manuals.      Can anyone share some light on this,  AND is it possible something in the brain or something is sensing low fuel pressure to ground out the spark; making this a related problem?  Right now the gen is also totally isolated / disconnected.  Planning on jumping to the other side of the connection I found to check if the fuel pump works, really not wanting to drop the tank that's about half full.
 
I have a 92 bounder 460. Having trouble understanding your post. I can say that there is nothing that I know of that relates fuel pressure to spark. Over the years I have had to replace fuel pump, ignition module, ignition relay, and ecm in relation to no start or inferior running conditions.
 
I'm not sure it has anything to do with your problems, but you will likely find that fuel shut off relay on the inner fire wall near your feet.
 
Still stumped.  Have replaced the ignition coil, ignition relay, pickup coil, and module; still no consistent spark from the coil.  For the fuel problem I've hot wired the pink wire to the pump at a connection under the coach and the pump works (thank god I don't have to drop the tank).  Found and replaced the fuel pump relay (has 12v into the secondary side, only 2.2v on the primary).  Pulled the "roll over" switch and it checks out ok; I've also figured out that's the end of the pink wire from the fuel pump and is fed with a green/yellow wire still with the 2.8v.  The large green/yellow wire at the relay has 0v so don't think it's the same wire.  I've probed four plugs coming from the steering column and found a yellow/red wire to be 3.8v; a few others to be 7.?v and some to be over 12v.  There isn't a yellow/red at the fuel relay so may not be the cause; I was thinking I'm dealing with a bad ignition key switch.  Does anyone know where the primary power comes from to initiate the fuel relay?  I have found no fuse for this circuit.  Any suggestions?  Replacing the brain?
 
Time to get out the VOM. An analog one would be best but not critical. Disconnect the the pick-up coil and probe the wires to the coil for continuity and voltage fluctuation during cranking. And, while your there, check the distributor for ground and the black wire from the module for ground. Reconnect. Check the Positive side of the coil for good voltage both key on and cranking. And, negative side of coil should have voltage during key on and fluctuate during cranking. 
 
Might try pulling the spout (spark out) jumper and see if it will start. You pull the the spout jumper when you set the ignition timing. Google. That will isolate module and "brain" and wiring to brain. Could very well be bad wire, connector, or ground to ecm. Try checking reference voltage to an easy to get to sensor. 5 volts to ecm.
 
ACE28 said:
Still stumped.  Have replaced the ignition coil, ignition relay, pickup coil, and module; still no consistent spark from the coil.  For the fuel problem I've hot wired the pink wire to the pump at a connection under the coach and the pump works (thank god I don't have to drop the tank).  Found and replaced the fuel pump relay (has 12v into the secondary side, only 2.2v on the primary).  Pulled the "roll over" switch and it checks out ok; I've also figured out that's the end of the pink wire from the fuel pump and is fed with a green/yellow wire still with the 2.8v.  The large green/yellow wire at the relay has 0v so don't think it's the same wire.  I've probed four plugs coming from the steering column and found a yellow/red wire to be 3.8v; a few others to be 7.?v and some to be over 12v.  There isn't a yellow/red at the fuel relay so may not be the cause; I was thinking I'm dealing with a bad ignition key switch.  Does anyone know where the primary power comes from to initiate the fuel relay?  I have found no fuse for this circuit.  Any suggestions?  Replacing the brain?
  Try to find a wiring diagram for a 92 E350/460 should be the same. Runs with 12 to pump?
 
It lives, finally.  Feel a little stupid, a lot actually.  I finally traced down the eec relay, right next to the fuel pump relay, didn't have 12v (yellow wire).  One of the last dang things I checked after all the grounds and such as suggested above.  Ends up I didn't re-attach a wire (green) to the battery when I was dealing with the gen previously.  Since acquiring this thing there is only one working battery that most everything is attached to; and I'm guessing the fuse link previously let go and someone replaced it all with a different colored wire.  Not even sure if it's suppose to be attached to the battery actually.  Taking William52's advice of finding better wiring diagrams I did find this link:  http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8038ecd6    which did help tremendously, I followed fig22 but there are many others that may help others reading this thread.  Thanks to all for the suggestions.
 
We've all been there - especially with old RV wiring... a lot of it didn't make sense new, and add 20 years and an owner or two and you end up with quite a disaster. When I got mine, I pulled enough useless wire out to fill one of those 5 gallon Home Depot buckets, and I still have a dozen or so random, disconnected wires dangling from the front compartment. It drives me up the wall, but two years later nothing has failed to work so I just let it all be.
 
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