Sept. 21 Day 35 Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Having a checkout time of 3:00 (we have discovered that all WI state parks have this policy) gave us lots of time to see the capitol. It was in the low 50?s and raining, and we had problems finding parking because not even the Capitol Police know what their parking signs mean. We couldn?t get a picture of the capitol because of the rain. We got lucky and had a wonderful guide, Jerry. We were given a private tour?just the two of us.
The current capitol was built in 1917 and was updated in the 1990?s. The first capitol was in Belmont, the lead mining center. In its 45 days of operation in 1837, it made only one decision?to move the capitol to Madison. Madison was named after our 4th president who wrote the Constitution. They built the new capitol quickly?of wood that was green (not cured). As it aged, it developed leaks and huge cracks, big enough to put your hand through. They built the second capitol from 1850-1860 of sandstone. They had outgrown it, so they weren?t too unhappy when it burned down.
In 1906, they started the new capitol. It cost $7.2 million and had its own power plant, which is still in use today. It is shaped like a + sign with four wings, an unusual design. In the 1980?s they added central air-conditioning and improved the electronics.
George Post, the architect who designed the capitol also designed the biggest building in the world for the Chicago World?s Fair and the New York Stock Exchange. He was 69 years old, and he wanted for the Madison Capitol to be his crowning jewel of his career, and he succeeded. Dean and I have seen lots of capitols, and I think this one ties with Frankfort, Kentucky for #1. Dean says it is #3, behind Frankfort and Charleston. Post paid a lot of attention to details and really thought it through. He used glass tiles in the floor while allowed light to be reflected from the domes above to the area below. There were many different types of marble throughout the capitol?all were beautiful. And, all the marble columns are solid. Gold leaf is used throughout the capitol. The ceilings are so varied, symbolic, and amazing, they could do a whole tour based just on the ceilings. They could also do a whole tour just on the beautiful paintings.
We started in the Conference Room, where this painting impressed me. (Picture 1) It represents transportation in the past present, and future. The train dominates the background, and there is a ship and a car. But, there is a tiny PLANE in the sky! The Wright Brothers had just made their first flight in the same year, but the artist realized that planes were the transportation of the future.
The first wing we visited was the Supreme Court (Picture 2). Every sign was of the same marble and gold leaf?really quite striking. They choose about 75 cases that have the biggest impact from 750 petitions submitted annually. They work from September through June. They hold court 3-4 times per month, and they hear 3-4 cases per day. Each side gets only 30 minutes to present their evidence. If they want to rebut, they have to save some of those minutes. The afternoon that the case is heard they hold a preliminary vote and select the judge who will write the opinion. Currently there are 4 women justices and 3 male justices. The historical, formal, ceremonial chairs are shown here, but behind them are the comfortable chairs that the justices actually use. (Picture 3). The painting of the ?Signing of the Constitution? (Picture 4) shows Washington behind the table. In the right is James Madison with a cloak on his arm, and he is talking with Alexander Hamilton. Near Washington stands Thomas Jefferson who is talking to another delegate whose back is turned. In the group of four men standing to the left is Benjamin Franklin. However, Thomas Jefferson was in Paris in 1878 performing his duties as minister to France, so he couldn?t have been there. Picture 5 is of the ?Trial of Chief Oshkosh? who was accused of killing a Pawnee tribal member. Chief Oshkosh has folded his arms, with trappers, voyagers, and tribesmen watching. He was acquitted because he acted in accordance with tribal law. It established that the spirit of the law is more important than the letter of the law. Picture 6 is ?The Signing of the Magna Carta.?
There are 33 senators who are led by the President of the Senate. Above his chair are three murals, which together form ?The Marriage of the Atlantic and Pacific.? (Pictures 7, 8, and 9) In the center panel, America is sitting on the throne and is blessing the union of the two oceans through the building of the Panama Canal. The Atlantic, symbolized by Neptune, places a ring on the finger of Pacific.
Each senator represents 165,000 people, and serves a 4-year term. The minority gets to sit in the front of the Senate. They have to be recognized to speak, and they are not addressed by name. They are called to speak as, ?The Senator from the ___District may speak.? The President of the Senate, Fred Risser, is the longest serving state legislator ever in the United States, having served 50 years and is still going strong. In the Senate, they still do a voice roll call. The governor has line item veto power. Two-thirds vote of the Senate is necessary to overturn the governor?s veto.
In the Assembly, the third wing, there are 99 assembly members, each serving a 2-year term. Republicans sit by the windows, and the Democrats sit by the doors. They vote electronically. In fact, in 1919 they were the first legislature in the world to have electronic voting. I think that makes it even stranger that the Senate votes by roll call. The governor gives his State of the State speech here, and they set up extra seats for the senators and Supreme Court justices.
Above the speaker?s desk is the painting ?Wisconsin.? (Picture 10) A female figure, who is named Wisconsin, appears throughout the Capitol and other governmental buildings?in fact, there is a huge 284-foot gilded bronze statue of her atop the Capitol dome. In this painting, she is sitting on a rock surrounded by women symbolizing Lake Superior, Lake Michigan, and the Mississippi River. Sometime after the painting was hung, a beaver magically appeared in the lower right corner. Hmmm?
The Governor?s Reception Room is truly palatial. (PICTURES 11, 12, 13) It has more gold leaf than all of the rest of the Capitol combined, and that?s a LOT! The whole room, from the ceiling to the paintings to the carvings is just so elegant. It?s where the governor holds his press conferences and meets with important people.
The guide had to leave so we became ?voyagers? and found the statue ?Wisconsin and Old Abe?. (Picture 14) This is a TRUE story. Chief Sky, the son of an Ojibwe chief, noticed a treetop nest, with two fledgling bald eagles, and to capture them, he cut down the tree. One eaglet died from the fall, but the other became his pet. A few months later when he and his father were on a trading expedition, they sold the eagle in exchange for a bushel of corn. Then some young men from Wisconsin were going to enlist to fight for the Union in the Civil War pooled their money from a trader who wanted $2.50. They needed just a little more money, so they asked a civilian, who declined to contribute, so they gave him 3 lusty groans. He laughed and paid for the total cost, and he returned the quarters to the donors. After that, he received cheers instead of groans. The young soldiers? leader, Captain Perkins, named the eagle ?Old Abe? after President Lincoln, and his quartermaster made a special perch on which to carry the bird into battle, and a young soldier volunteered to take care of her. They became the regimental color company and were named ?Eagle Company.? Old Abe was carried, perched upon a banner, through the din and smoke of 36 battles. She always got excited by battles, and she would spread her wings and scream. When she passed by great generals like U. S. Grant and William Sherman, they would doff their hats. In 1864, Old Abe came back to Wisconsin with several volunteers who did not re-enlist. She was famous and went to expositions and conventions, and she lived in the Wisconsin State Capitol. She died from smoke inhalation in a fire at the State Capitol in 1881. She became the insignia of the 101st Airborne Division, who are known as the Screaming Eagles.
We went back to the center rotunda, which is spectacular. There are 4 beautiful paintings. The colors in the paintings were so vibrant, as if they were alive. My favorite was Liberty (Picture 15.)
We went looking for the state seal, which we have seen in the other state capitols. They are usually in a display case or mounted in the capitol?s rotunda. Wisconsin?s is in a hallway ceiling off the center rotunda (Picture 16). Dean lay on his back to be able to shoot this picture. I thought the badger was the state animal because they have so many of them. They were important in the fur trade, but Wisconsin became ?The Badger State? because the miners were so busy making money in the lead mining boom of the 1830?s that they didn?t take time to build houses. They lived in mine shafts and makeshift burrows, like badgers. The triangles on the seal represent lead ingots. I think the rest is self-explanatory.
We drove to Babcock Hall Dairy Store to purchase highly-touted University of Wisconsin cheese and ice cream. The campus is huge and, unlike any university I?ve ever seen, it is interspersed with other buildings along major city thoroughfares. Students use bicycles and scooters to traverse the long distances between classes. It was the oddest campus I?ve seen. They had several blocks with only university departments and lots of greenhouses. There was no close parking to Babcock, and it was cold (50?) and rainy, so we took a pass. I?ll look for another cheesemaker. I wanted to see it at U of W because they offer a Masters of Cheesemaking, which I thought was an odd masters program.
I enjoyed this capitol so much that bought a book about the history of the capitol and its symbols
Staying at Oak Creek Estates (Thanks to Lorna)---FHU, 50 amps, no satellite Internet because of tall trees. It?s a bit short (we stick out a foot into the road), but I think it?s the best in Milwaukee. I feel better because they escorted us, and it?s their road.