Please help me understand my RV electric

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So here are 2 batteries I have, the Trojan came with the hauler- year unknown. The Interstate was sold to me by Bell Road RV in Phoenix June '15. So far we've only used the hauler for 2 nights at Lake Mary, AZ. We didn't use much for electronics, no TV, no microwave, no heater or A/C. Just lights really. So I can not speak to how well they sustain our needs but I plan to spend a night in the hauler on the driveway running exclusively on one of the batteries to make sure it will work. I know I can not combine these batteries so one is just a spare for now.

I suspect that mainly on our upcoming Yosemite trip we'll only use the heater, refrig, and lights. We have a 750W inverter in the truck for offhand needs. I am trying to get this hauler self sufficient though.
 

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I know there are a bunch of wires and boxes filled with magic smoke. You touch the wrong wires together and all the magic smoke is released from the boxes and they quit working. There are things called fuses that give you something to look for when the magic smoke isn't going through the wires. Batteries are used to store water that will destroy a good pair of Levis. There is something called a ground that  always  has one problem or another.

I hope this helps you understand your electrical system.
 
Sam's Club has decent prices on private label AGMs, and I suspect Costco would as well. A Group 31 AGM deep cycle runs around $180 (varies a bit by store location).
 
halfwright said:
I know there are a bunch of wires and boxes filled with magic smoke. You touch the wrong wires together and all the magic smoke is released from the boxes and they quit working. There are things called fuses that give you something to look for when the magic smoke isn't going through the wires. Batteries are used to store water that will destroy a good pair of Levis. There is something called a ground that  always  has one problem or another.

I hope this helps you understand your electrical system.
Click to expand...

And that pretty much sums it up! ROTF LMAO glad I wasn't sipping my coffee!

Bill
 
I found some Interstate 6V GC2 RC107 acid bath deep cycles for $84 each, think I should do this or Trojan acid baths for $92 ea?
 
It's a toss up. The Trojan is a better respected brand (they actually make batteries, whereas Interstate is just a marketing company), but Interstate 6v's come from reputable battery makers and are fine as well.

The correct tech term is "flooded cell". AGMs and gels are lead-acid too, so they are all lead cells submerged in acid.
 
supermanotorious said:
I found some Interstate 6V GC2 RC107 acid bath deep cycles for $84 each, think I should do this or Trojan acid baths for $92 ea?
Click to expand...
You cant compare price with out knowing what the rated AH is because they make several capacity battery's and the lower capacity battery's are cheaper. you might like this.
http://batterycharts.com/best-golf-cart-batteries/
Bill
 
man oh man, more questions. I was looking at some of the forum sponsor /ads whatever you want to call them and I really like the Camplite but I figure it simply bridges some connections in the main trailer harness. I did some research and found this thread: https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26382340/print/true.cfm

I wanted to try it myself, I opened the box then got completely confused. I assume the module underneath the rig is a 30 amp breaker but I do not understand why there are 2 wires going and and 2 coming out. Plus when looking in the box, what is this distribution block for?? I tested for ground continuity and got it on some of the posts but not all.

Can anyone tell me how the Camplite works?

EDIT: I figured out it's simply jumping the 12V lead to the running lights, only problem is- when I jump I get nothing. I noticed my truck doesn't seem to charge the house battery, think someone failed to connect it, or worse- cut it? I confirmed with the meter, there is NO 12V+ at the harness on any terminal
 

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I am at a loss for tonight. I got out the creeper and I traced wires but I can not tell you where some of these wires go. I am super displeased to see that American Freedom did not take the time to install grommets where the wires go through the frame walls and that they didn't even drill the holes- they plasma/torch cut them and many junctions are showing damage to the wire. I can not assume they followed standard wire color connections. Here is a better picture of the breaker underneath.
 

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well- never underestimate a hillbilly. there were a few configurations that were bothering me as I was getting ready to prepare for bed. they were eating at me so I got the meter back out and decided to check that circuit breaker / fuse underneath. It's dead, no continuity between the posts. I jumped the posts and wahlah- the fuse in the main harness lit the running lights, I know now what it will take to have the truck charge the house battery(ies). So who knows- maybe it was water that ruined the breaker, maybe it was the loose battery cords shorting out on the frame, I'll replace it asap and we'll see how long it lasts.

EDIT: OMG, went to look up a replacement breaker, found out this one has a manual reset, reset it and- damn thing works like it should...........
 

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There should be IMO but just as with the janky wire holes, even if there was a standard, I doubt a "discount" brand like AF would have followed it.

I would still like to figure out what fuse position #3 does in the cabin. Also still looking for an inverter. Truth be told I'd like to spend less than $300, less than $200 would be even better. I did some research on the Aims model I posted a link for and found some good reviews on Amazon. What I learned or at least the main take away is that if I'm going to spend the $$ on a pure sine inverter, I want it hard wired with an automatic transfer switch and a charging feature. This Aims model does not have a charger. With that being said, our trip is nearing and maybe I'll just "borrow" a MSW from Harbor Freight for the trip. We won't be using any sensitive electronics I don't think so it should get us by.
 
You can install a standalone inverter, since you already have a charger onboard. Whether that is a decent quality charger may be another question - I don't recall you mentioning a brand or model (and I'm too lazy to read back through the entire thread to see).

MSW works fine for most things. You are more likely to have an issue with an electric blanket or coffee maker than your "sensitive electronics". Clocks, too.
 
Thanks for that thought, I'm on the fence with this unit: http://amzn.com/B00TI1D5JK
it's the one I posted earlier but this is an Amazon link with some reviews.

Now, who seriously has clocks in their rig anymore? Don't we all use app based phones for a clock/watch/calculator/camera/timer/phone/etc these days  :p ?
 
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