Please help me understand my RV electric

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Since your battery is nearly new, I would not be concerned about adding 1-2 more of the same size.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Now, who seriously has clocks in their rig anymore?

Well, we have two, plus the clocks on the coffee maker and microwave. And yes, we have time displays on our phones too.  Whatever rows your boat...

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

On that AIMS inverter, the specs seem fine but the buyers who reviewed it don't seem all that pleased. I would be concerned about the possible non-stop fan (both noise and battery load), since the reviewers seem to have a difference of opinion as to whether it cycles on/off or not.  It would be normal for the fan to run when there is much of a load on the inverter, but not at idle.

I'm planning on installing a residential fridge on my coach soon and will be looking at a unit much like this to power the fridge alone (I already have a 2500 watt MSW inverter for the whole coach).

Be aware that you can buy an separate transfer auto-switch for $50-$60, so you can use an inverter without one if you wish.
http://www.amazon.com/PowerMax-PMTS-30-Automatic-Transfer-Switch/dp/B006FLT0IG/ref=sr_1_4

 

[supermanotorious]

For $150, I think this inverter is worth testing, I'm going for it

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Hard to beat that price. I might get one myself.

 

[rockman]

I know there are a bunch of wires and boxes filled with magic smoke. You touch the wrong wires together and all the magic smoke is released from the boxes and they quit working. There are things called fuses that give you something to look for when the magic smoke isn't going through the wires. Batteries are used to store water that will destroy a good pair of Levis. There is something called a ground that  always  has one problem or another.

I hope this helps you understand your electrical system.

Don't know if I have ever read a more accurate description of an electrical system

 

[supermanotorious]

I have professionally installed car audio and home theater/automation for years, including for players of the Phoenix Suns and Arizona Cardinals. But thank you for this explanation. Now, if we could just think of a component I'm not thinking of for fuse #3...............

 

[supermanotorious]

here is a better picture of the battery I bought in June 2015, again- the outstanding question here: should I just get more of these so this one is one less I have to buy?

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

All depends on what you are looking to do. That marine deep cycle is good for maybe 3 years of use before it just won't "hold a charge" very long. If you want to step up to a better quality type of battery, i.e. a "true deep cycle", now is probably the time to do it. If you are willing to replace the batteries every 3 years or so, then buying more of the same type makes sense. It's a "pay me now or pay me" later kind of thing, cause better quality deep cycles cost more. You can probably get several years of life from a true deep cycle.

What you should NOT do is add 2-3 good deep cycles to that marine type. "Don't mix battery types" is one of the rules of a happy battery life

 

[Charlie 5320]

I had a pair of those in my Challenger that were 7 years old and still working good when I sold the coach last June. There is one in my Daybreak now but I don't know how old it is. Going with a pair of 6 volts this spring from Sams club. Going to use the Interstate for a starting batt.

 

[supermanotorious]

Well well well. What an interesting day. I was painting a wakeboard winch this morning then started building the shipping crate when USPS showed up under Amazon's whip. The delivery guy and I had a slightly interesting conversation which made me realize, there is something about my bearded, long-hair appearance that makes people feel comfortable dropping the F word in casual conversation with me (same deal yesterday at Harbor Freight) and I dont mind so its meant to be. He dropped off the inverter and several other parts from the order and I was pleased.

Once I finished Phoenix Winch activities I turned my attention to the new parts. I took probably the first ever photos of the AIMs 120V input/output wires to see what it was all about. The manual says "discharge capacitors before opening the case" and if you doubted whether I was a professional installer you can be sure now that you see I had the tool to discharge them in my toolbox (that, paired with the knowledge how to use it). They had no charge so opening the case I went.

Then I started looking in the trailer for where I was planning to mount the inverter. I started by tracing the ac line. Here is where mayhem set in. If you didn't know, I have a thread on this forum addressing mouse stench issues. Then add to that the fact that while I've been researching this issue I arbitrarily noticed the silicone caulking around the bath tub was separating from the walls. I noticed a large group of mouse **** behind the converter.

That lead to pulling the converter, then the heater, then the f'n tub. I destroyed the super cheap tub plumbing getting it out- another shame on American Freedom. But there is a silver lining. Among vacuuming out decaying mouse babies, I believe we have vacuumed out 99% of the remaining mouse excrement in the trailer and another win- found a potential spot for the inverter. To seal the deal, we wiped the areas clean with bleach, and then vinegar when we ran out of bleach, and then I bought the urine neutralizing spray from a pet store and saturated all the "hot spots". I am truly optimistic we've eliminated the mouse stench but only time will tell.

So thanks for reading this lengthy update! What are your thoughts on mounting the inverter in the large cavity behind the converter?

 

[HueyPilotVN]

I was advised to be sure to include a catastrophic fuze in the 12 volt input line to the Invertor.  You have plenty of room in that space assuming that the batteries are very close.  The Fuze should be close to the batteries.  Also be sure that you use a large enough gauge wire.

I guess someday you will find what the #3 fuze goes too.

 

[supermanotorious]

I bought a thick ga fuse holder for this and I'll be using 1/0 wire and 150 amp fuses but I can and will adjust if necessary. I even bought a new cutter for this project but I know I'll use it in other projects as well, well worth the cost.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Peak load on a 1200W inverter is about 100 amps (DC), so 1/0 seems like overkill. Of course, wire can't be too large, except for fitting into the terminals on the inverter. They look more like 2 gauge or maybe even 4 gauge size.

I ordered the same unit yesterday, along with its remote. Just the right size for my upcoming residential fridge project.

 

[supermanotorious]

Dang it! 0ga doesn't fit the inverter, the 0ga terminals don't fit in the fuse holder, and my fuses don't fit the holder either. So, I may just put one end of the fuse on the battery, the other to a terminal and call it done. I have plenty of 4ga in my inventory but I'm waiting for the 0ga to show up. I'll likely run 0ga for 90% of the run then reduce it to 4ga to fit the inverter. Maybe that or order some 2ga for the overall run. In these pictures you can see the difference between 0ga and 4ga running in to the inverter.




EDIT: BAH! Just ordered 2ga, and new fuse holder, and ANL fuses, thank you Amazon Prime!

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

My wire run will be in the range where 4 gauge is adequate. Maybe a bit less than optimum if it ever ran at peak load for 30+ minutes, but I don't expect mine to ever exceed about 400 watts of inverter output. 2 gauge should be plenty for the 1200 watt max output unless the wire run to the batteries is real long.

 

[supermanotorious]

I don't plan to make a long run, in fact I am really hoping it's less than 12'. I hastily ordered the 1/0 wire, looked at reviews which are pretty consistent that it is not true 1/0 ga, it's slightly larger than 4ga with an extra thick jacket. I HATE IT WHEN THEY DO THAT. I got a similar length from a local wholesaler of car audio and they told me: "well its to save production cost". Well I could care less about the production cost, when I need 1/0, I need 1/0. Not some cut rate wire. At any rate the 2ga I ordered has 5/5 star reviews- all of them so I think I'll be prepared. I'll take lots of pictures of the install.

Please review this configuration. I believe it to be correct. I want to confirm, that while running off battery/inverter power, I disconnect the converter from the battery bank. But when towing or hooked up to generator/shore, I need the converter connected to the battery bank for charging. Correct?

 

[kdbgoat]

Where did you get wire marked 1/0 that wasn't really 1/0? You should report the manufacturer and seller to NFPA. They probably will get involved in getting it off the market.

 

[boatbuilder]

There are two different wire gauge measurements. AWG and SAE.  AWG is larger in diameter than SAE.  I don't recall the difference but we used AWG when I was building boats. 

 

[driftless shifter]

Another reason I despise the online shopping phenomena, I miss mom and pop business's where you could lay your hands on something before plunking down your money. Now what do you do with the stuff you don't or can't use? Added expense of shipping it back or a restocking fee? Don't forget packing it up and going to the post office to ship it. God forbid you don't get a return code because then it will disappear into a black hole, and you'll be out your money with nothing in your stash that might be useful later!
Sorry just a railing against the machine, I AM A LUDDITE HEAR ME ROAR!

Bill