JDOnTheGo
Well-known member
If the 20 hour amp-hour rate is not listed on the battery itself, look it up on the Internet and review the specs. If it is a starting battery, you may never find a 20 hour rating.
Running out of power
- Thread starter v33sonata
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
robertusa123
Well-known member
Something up. My camper last longer on one battey then yours does on 2 . what you really need is a DC amp meater. I'm positive you have something drawing down your batterys
OP
OP
v33sonata
Well-known member
I have one and I am drawing 0.33 amps. Only from the refrigerator cause when I shut it off it shows zero draw
If that is indeed all you are drawing your batteries have to be shot. I'd charge them completely, unhook them, check the voltage, then let them sit for a few hours, then check the voltage again. I'm betting one of them has a dead cell and will read around 9 volts.
As far as the 2 different batteries at Sams. The $85 one is 208 amp hours, when wiring in series, your amp hours is equal to the ah rating of one battery, but your voltage doubles. So two of these wired in series would give you 208 ah at 12 Volts. The $112 one has 232 ah. $60 to me doesn't seem worth it for 12 usable (24 total) extra ah's. Your current 12 volt batteries should have roughly 80ah a piece in good shape. When wiring in parrelell it's the opposite, your ah rating doubles, but your voltage stays the same. So your current batteries in good condition would have 160 amp hours. Upgrading to the golf cart batteries would get you an extra 48 amp hours.
As far as the 2 different batteries at Sams. The $85 one is 208 amp hours, when wiring in series, your amp hours is equal to the ah rating of one battery, but your voltage doubles. So two of these wired in series would give you 208 ah at 12 Volts. The $112 one has 232 ah. $60 to me doesn't seem worth it for 12 usable (24 total) extra ah's. Your current 12 volt batteries should have roughly 80ah a piece in good shape. When wiring in parrelell it's the opposite, your ah rating doubles, but your voltage stays the same. So your current batteries in good condition would have 160 amp hours. Upgrading to the golf cart batteries would get you an extra 48 amp hours.
OP
OP
v33sonata
Well-known member
I pulled the battery's today after a short charge bringing to about 12.5v a few hours later I checked them and they were at 12.3v I put them back in the rv and with in 2 hours down to 11.9v this was during the time I we watching the draw which was 0.33a
Both batteries were the same?
How do you have your meter hooked up? Is every single connection going through the meter and the only thing connected to the battery post is the meter?
Can you post a pic of your batts and how everything is wired?
How do you have your meter hooked up? Is every single connection going through the meter and the only thing connected to the battery post is the meter?
Can you post a pic of your batts and how everything is wired?
An easy way to to find out if it's your batteries or not-take them to an auto parts store, have them charge them and then do a load test. That would be a lot simpler than than fiddle-farting around guessing. If your batteries have a CCA listing, they are marine or dual purpose batteries. They are not the best thing to use on an RV to start with. If you have to buy new batteries, get true deep-cycle batteries. They will give you more amp hours and can be discharged deeper than the dual purpose marine type.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
Batteries as they age loose capacity due to sulfation and other modes of failure.
When your BIG (Say group 31) starts acting like a small (Say group 24) time to replace.
NOTE: if you take a common MARINE/deep cycle (the most common 12 volt SINGLE battery in an RV) and take 'em down to say 50% state of charge or lower.. They age rapidly (l.oose capacity)
A true DEEP CYCLE liek a GC-2,, wich you need 2 of since they are six volt.. Also ages faster if run down too far,,,, BUT, 50% is not too far, and though say 25% SOC is damaging.. Not nearly as bad as the Marine types.
When your BIG (Say group 31) starts acting like a small (Say group 24) time to replace.
NOTE: if you take a common MARINE/deep cycle (the most common 12 volt SINGLE battery in an RV) and take 'em down to say 50% state of charge or lower.. They age rapidly (l.oose capacity)
A true DEEP CYCLE liek a GC-2,, wich you need 2 of since they are six volt.. Also ages faster if run down too far,,,, BUT, 50% is not too far, and though say 25% SOC is damaging.. Not nearly as bad as the Marine types.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
If you are going to get new batteries, please read my Library article on RV Battery Choices. It's not long or exceedingly technical and will help you understand the trade-offs of battery type, size, and cost.
http://www.rvforum.net/miscfiles/Choosing_right_battery.pdf
Yes, it is entirely possible for a one year old marine type battery to be worn (damaged) to the point where capacity drops substantially. Detroit John gave one good reason.
A charge to 12.5v is not yet a full charge. It has to reach 12.6 and stabilize there. 12.6 with the charger still active is nowhere near adequate - it should easily reach 13.6 with the charger running.
http://www.rvforum.net/miscfiles/Choosing_right_battery.pdf
Yes, it is entirely possible for a one year old marine type battery to be worn (damaged) to the point where capacity drops substantially. Detroit John gave one good reason.
A charge to 12.5v is not yet a full charge. It has to reach 12.6 and stabilize there. 12.6 with the charger still active is nowhere near adequate - it should easily reach 13.6 with the charger running.
As mentioned, a short charging bringing them to 12.5 volts in no way means the battery is fully charged. You should be putting 14.6 volts into a battery for a while to get it fully charged. A battery needs to sit idle for some time to get a proper reading from it also, not shortly after charging it. If you never fully charge your battery it will die a quick death and leave you without power, like what it is doing.v33sonata said:
OP
OP
v33sonata
Well-known member
New golfcart battery's are in. Wish me luck!! Combined voltage is 12.47 is this acceptable?
JDOnTheGo
Well-known member
?Do. Or do not. There is no try.? - Yoda, Jedi Master
Suggest you get a quality battery bank monitor when able so you can treat your investment to a long and productive life.
OP
OP
v33sonata
Well-known member
Not going so well. Went to start the gen and the battery's tanked to 2v
PJ Stough
Well-known member
Did they return to something above 12 volts once you stopped trying to start the generator?
OP
OP
v33sonata
Well-known member
Nope. They are sitting at 2v
Len and Jo
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2005
- Posts
- 1,442
I really would recommend that you get a clamp meter and trace down what is draining your house batteries. I would also recommend that you do this before investing in a second set of new batteries. Here is an example one for less then the cost of one new battery: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-CL110KIT-Electrical-Maintenance/dp/B017SXAYKM?ie=UTF8&keywords=clamp%20meter&qid=1462910209&ref_=sr_1_12&sr=8-12
PJ Stough
Well-known member
v33sonata said:
Are you measuring the same way you did when you got 12.47? There is no way, to my knowledge, that you could run the new batteries that dead, without having a dead short somewhere, and if that were the case, I would expect to see sparks, smoke or fire, or all three when you tried to start the generator.
OP
OP
v33sonata
Well-known member
I can't keep buying stuff. So when I disconnect the positive I get 12v back. However I'm. Showing no amp draw
OP
OP
v33sonata
Well-known member
I also have a clamp meter
