Shoreline Power problem

[jimmie123]

I just had a 30 amp receptacle installed at the front of the house, it was done by a licensed electrician. I plugged the RV into it for the 1st time today...immediately the coach battery alarm went off and the main and a couple of receptacle breakers in the coach tripped. I pulled the plug as quickly as possible. I'm wondering if it's been done correctly? We used 10/2 wire, an exterior receptacle box with waterproof cover (it came with the receptacle installed) and a double 30 amp breaker at our main service panel....the electrician tested both legs at the receptacle and said that both were "good" as far as a reading...I'm no electrician - what should the reading be at each leg?? Does it sound like this was done correctly?? He lives across the street, so when he get's home tonite, if there's something that's been done incorrectly, I'll have him fix it. We used this RV not long ago...plugged in and had no problems at all.

 

[Harry B]

Did he wire the outlet for 110v or 220v?

If your coach (you don't mention model) has only 30 amp service it can only handle 120v.

A coach with 50 amp service will make 2 legs of 110v circuits out of 220v.

A 30 amp service plugged into a 220 outlet without the proper adapter will cause damage.

 

[Joezeppy]

...double breaker ... both legs...

I'm no electrician either but from what I know, these are terms normally associated with a 220 circuit. My 30 amp outlet is wired no differently from a normal household outlet with the exception of the size/capacity of the components.

Joe

 

[Lou Schneider]

Yup, sounds like the electrician wired the outlet like a typical 30 amp, 240 volt dryer outlet.  Using a dual 30 amp circuit breaker is the main clue.  The 240 volt dryer outlet is physically very similar to the 120 volt RV outlet so they're easy to confuse if you're not paying attention.

Tell the electrician you want a 120 volt, 30 amp circuit, as stated on the RV socket he installed.  It's just a minor wiring change at this point.

After the recepticle is fixed, make sure the stuff in the RV still works.  Make sure the TV and microwave still operate.  And the converter is still charging the batteries.

 

[quaddriver]

and a double 30 amp breaker at our main service panel

a what?

30amp trailer service can be fed from a single 30 amp single pole breaker.

if it was wired 220 - it seriously freaked out the converter:  if new electronic, prolly ok, if older transformer - you just gave 24v to the batteries and 'stuff'

and you had current capable from 'neutral' to ground so it tripped a gfi

 

[jimmie123]

Thanks for the responses. I am certainly not an electrician, therefore have to depend on someone who is. I'll let the electrician know what happened, I'm sure it was hooked up as 220....a very experienced guy at Home Depot sold us the exterior box/receptacle and said that was what the RV'ers were using. That's what he (and I) went by. I'll let him know about the change required.....30 amp, 120v. Hopefully (fingers crossed) nothing got really screwed up.

 

[Just Lou]

The double 30amp breakers is a dead give away.  It's wired for 220.

 

[John From Detroit]

Two clues

1: it was done by a licensed electrician

2:double 30 amp breaker

There is a 3rd clue too "Both legs"

Printed on the outlet is the statement 120 volts.

The screws are color coded, one copper, one aluminum one green, this too is the code for 120 volt outlets.

You told him it was for an RV right:

He looked at the outlet and thought "Dryer" or "Welder" or "Air Compressor" and wired it for 240 volts.

It is not wired properly

Get him back and have him do it right,, But first, take pictures, and call your attorney

Proper readings 120 volt between the two flat blades, One of them will show 120 volt to the round one the other zero.

You have 240 across the flats.

This, is why I keep telling folks PUT IN A 50 amp"  Electricians almost never get those wrong.

 

[jimmie123]

I don't think I'll go as far as contacting an attorney etc. I just want it wired right. I'm fairly ignorant on electrical stuff, but if he changes out the double 30 breaker and installs a single pole 30 amp, is that all that's required? The exterior box matches the RV plug (ground on top, 2 angled blade females) perfectly. It's sort of a "sticky" situation...he's a neighbor, lives right across the street. Nice guy, and did it for basically nothing. Thankfully, the TV wasn't plugged in, and if the microwave doesn't work, it was the original one and didn't work all that great to begin with.

 

[Ned]

You have to check every electrical device in the RV once it's wired correctly.  240V can do a lot of damage in a brief time.

 

[jimmie123]

You have to check every electrical device in the RV once it's wired correctly.  240V can do a lot of damage in a brief time.

Ned, you can probably tell that we're fairly new to this. As I said - the TV wasn't plugged in, so no problems there. The refrig. was turned off, so it wouldn't have been "calling" for power. Not sure on the microwave, but I'll check it to see if it works when we get wired correctly. What else would you suggest checking once the RV is wired properly? Thankfully, the RV main breaker tripped, as well as a couple of receptacle breakers, so I'm hoping that prevented any further damage.

 

[Lou Schneider]

The main thing to check is the converter.  Make sure it's still supplying power and your 12 volt lights aren't just running off of the batteries.  The converter voltage is normally a little higher than what you get from the batteries, so your interior lights should get a bit brighter when the converter is supplying their voltage.  If they don't get brighter when you plug into electricity, your converter is probably not working.

 

[Water Dog]

I'm fairly ignorant on electrical stuff, but if he changes out the double 30 breaker and installs a single pole 30 amp, is that all that's required?

Yes, Install a single pole inplace of the double pole, and move the white wire that was on the second pole to the neutral bar. He also might want to check the outlet  end and make sure he's got the polarity right. (Black to brass, White to silver)

 

[John From Detroit]

The reason I recommend documentation (photos) and calling an attorney is that you may well have thousands of dollars in "hidden" damage, (Converter, television and related accessories Microwave even the Fridge and water heater).

If you do, the electrician should be paying for it since it was HIS mistake.

Don't mention that the microwve did not work all that well.

By the way if it's dometic, and the problem is the turntable,  I have (Sort of) a solution.  I fixed mine.. though I forget one of the important numbers but I can tell you how I found it.

 

[BrotherBill]

Hi Jimmie,

Hopefully, it's not as bad as it sounds, but yes, there can be a lot of damage caused by an improperly wired power source. Have your electrician look at the link below. It may clarify your specific needs. Got my fingers crossed that everything works out. Good luck.

The 30-amp 120-volt 2 pole 3 wire RV service

 

[jimmie123]

Hi Jimmie,

Hopefully, it's not as bad as it sounds, but yes, there can be a lot of damage caused by an improperly wired power source. Have your electrician look at the link below. It may clarify your specific needs. Got my fingers crossed that everything works out. Good luck.

The 30-amp 120-volt 2 pole 3 wire RV service

Thanks for the link Bill. I spoke with the electrician tonite..he knew exactly what happened and why it happened. It's really just as much my fault as his. He'll rewire the receptacle on Sunday. As far as damage, I can only hope...in reality, the microwave didn't even have a turntable (it was that old). As I had mentioned, the TV wasn't plugged in and the refrig was turned to "off" so it shouldn't have called for any power to it. As far as the rest, I guess I'll see on Sunday. There really aren't a lot of local options regarding RV service work, so consequently, many rely on local tradesmen who are quite good, but not all that familiar with the different problems, requirements and idiosyncrasies of an RV. I didn't mention this, and probably should have, I have a 1994 Itasca on a Ford E-350 chassis, 24'0.

 

[BrotherBill]

The microwave may not be that big of an issue. Most will have an internal fuse behind the controls. There are usually 4-6 screws holding the case on. Just remove the cover to get to the fuse. Looks similar to an older automotive fuse and can be found in most hardware stores. Just ask for a microwave fuse of the same amperage. Or, on the other hand, if it's that old you may just want to replace it with something more up to date anyway.

You're right. RVs can definitely be a horse of a different color. Make sure you do your research first, the Internet is indeed a wonderful resource. And when you think you have it all figured out, run your ideas past the folks here. There's a lot of knowledge and real life experience to be tapped into here. And from what I've seen so far, they're more than willing to help. Hang in there Jimmie.

 

[jimmie123]

Well, here's the verdict...I need a new converter/charger. 2 capacitors were fried, both internal fuses, 1 or 2 resistors, etc. I ordered one today, $187.00. It's supposed to be here this coming Wednesday. I need to get a new breaker as well, one of them won't reset and was probably damaged as well. An expensive lesson to be sure, but I guess it could've been worse. The electrician doesn't think that there was going to be any other damages, but of course, we won't know until everything is put back in place..

 

[Tony_Alberta]

Well, here's the verdict...I need a new converter/charger. 2 capacitors were fried, both internal fuses, 1 or 2 resistors, etc. I ordered one today, $187.00.

What make and model of converter?  Depending on age of RV folks here may have some suggestions on units that do proper charging.

 

[quaddriver]

What make and model of converter?  Depending on age of RV folks here may have some suggestions on units that do proper charging.

true dat - I just resurrected a PPS 7345 san schematic....they are fixable if you can poke.