These Prices Good Enough?

[AdkNorth]

We've got it narrowed down to four motorhomes at two dealers and a private sale. This is the list we have to decide from. All are in good shape, checked out, no signs of leaks or water damage, and all onboard stuff that should come with the RV is in place (generators and such). Mileage is around 100k give-or-take 10k on all of them.  I know they're a little bit older than would be ideal. It's what we can swing for cash right now. It's our "starter RV" and it won't do a ton of traveling. Some travel, but mostly full timing on our own land. All are in good condition, and I've checked the NADA guide on all.

Learned how to check out an RV and about NADA Guides here on the forum! Thanks!

The Pace Arrow is considerably higher than NADA. I'm not too hot on the Southwind because it's a private sale and I know they won't come down. (And I know it's been sitting.) The Catalina and Bounder are just about NADA average retail.

1. Do you these prices are friendly enough, considering the current economy?
2. Knowing they're all in good shape, and the milage is not through the roof, any thoughts?

1989 Coachman Catalina 34' - $6500
1991 Fleetwood Bounder 28' - $6995
1991 Pace Arrow 30' - $9499
1990 Fleetwood Southwind 28' - $9600

3. One more question (please pardon me if this is ignorant) - I've been watching these three dealers for a year. Nothing is selling. Nothing. What's the haggling process at the dealers on these old things? Or is that not done? I am supposed to say, "I'll take it right now for cash if I can have it for $6000?" (Of course, I would be reasonable with price.) I know they're obliged to get what they can, and they have to play the game, but I'm normally not into playing. That is, if I offer an amount and they don't accept it, I generally walk out of the office and get in my car and leave. Any advice? Smarter approach?

 

[Ray D]

That is, if I offer an amount and they don't accept it, I generally walk out of the office and get in my car and leave.

Sounds like an expert "haggler," to me. Hit somewhere lower than you are willing to actually pay. Be sure he has your phone number, first. Go sit by the phone, for a while. Pretend that you like haggling, and be a bit mean.   ;D

Ray D  ;D

 

[seilerbird]

Average retail NADA is way too high in this market. Offer under wholesale NADA.

 

[Marsha/CA]

Sounds like you have "haggling" down pat.    So when you are ready...go for it, even with the private party.  It sure doesn't hurt to make an offer.  They can only say no.

Regardless of the prices, here are some thoughts:

*Does any one of the 4 rigs have a floor plan that you just love?  That is a very important factor, especially to the woman. 
*Also, have you checked the CCC  (cargo carrying capacity) of each of the rigs.  The CCC can vary with different manufacturers; you are going to want as much as you can get. 
*Have you checked the age of the tires?  If you have to replace them on one rig and not the other, that would affect your actual cost outlay.  Any tires over 6-7 years MUST be replaced even if they look perfectly good.  If you don't know how to read a DOT code on the tires, there is an article in our library.

As far as which coach may or may not be better than others; the Coachman has had some difficulties over the years, but it's the longest on your list and you might enjoy that extra space.  Many people LOVE their Bounders.

If all of them are close to the 100,000 mile mark, you might want to check/change hoses, belts, fluids; that sort of stuff.

Have fun!
Marsha~

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Marsha gave excellent advice.

Personally I would be very leery of any gas chassis motorhome of that vintage with 100k miles on it. For those years, both engine and transmission are on thin ice at 100k. Transmission especially, since it is not a heavy duty tranny and works very hard moving a heavy coach in hot weather. If one of them has already had a transmission rebuild, that might be a better choice.

The Pace & the Southwind are the better coaches of that mix, but they are also way overpriced.  I wouldn't pay more than low NADA for any of them, unless maybe one had all NEW tires.

Make your [low] offer and walk if   unless they make a decent counter -offer. Stay by the phone. If they don't call, keep on shopping.

If you can swing around $9000, you should be able to get a 1995-1996 era coach and I think you will be happier in the long run. There were a number of solid advancements in chassis, engine, transmission and body design in the mid 90's vs the 1988-1992 arena. And there are lots of them for sale on rvt.com and similar sites.

 

[AdkNorth]

Thanks so much for the wonderful advice, everyone! I took notes on all the info you posted - how to check the age of the tires, asking if the transmissions have been rebuilt, etc. We're going to go see these models again in two weeks. Also, knowing that I should be offering at or below the NADA low might bring a few more models into our price range. I found some huge distances between their list prices and the low NADA on these units. Soooo, maybe knowing that I can look at slightly higher price units will get us a slightly newer model. I'll look now!  ;D

 

[Luca1369]

And don't forget the deals to be found on eBay (but make sure you can view the RV before buying).  Last year I bought a '90 Fleetwood Southwind, 36', all the bells and whistles, for far less than NADA value, and it only had 54K miles on it (The dash air even worked!).  I'm very happy with the purchase.

Steve

 

[seilerbird]

I bought my Providence last December and got an insane deal

 

[AdkNorth]

I was just thinking - We were mostly considering motorhomes instead of TT's based on an assumption I should ask about -

Because we'd be using it in Winter (a lot), the "basement" in the motorhomes we're looking at seemed like the best situation because the tanks were inside and could be heated to some degree and are less exposed. I haven't seen any TTs on these lots with a basement, so they didn't seem as winter friendly. Am I wrong? The fact that I might have been making a big logic jump  just occurred to me.

 

[John Canfield]

I have never done any research in any towables since we were never in the market for one, but I'm reasonably certain there are some models specifically  designed/marketed for camping in cold weather.  Perhaps it was a Canadian manufacturer - I'm not really sure.  Maybe somebody else will jump in with more info.

Like everything in life - never assume...  never assume every basement compartment in every Class A is heated.  Good chance they are, but check first.

 

[AdkNorth]

I have never done any research in any towables since we were never in the market for one, but I'm reasonably certain there are some models specifically  designed/marketed for camping in cold weather.  Perhaps it was a Canadian manufacturer - I'm not really sure.  Maybe somebody else will jump in with more info.

Like everything in life - never assume...  never assume every basement compartment in every Class A is heated.  Good chance they are, but check first.

Oh, no ... I wouldn't assume quite that far. 

I was more thinking that a basement is preferable - that I could heat a basement compartment myself, as opposed to no basement and/or the tank hanging under the chassis or not in an enclosed, heatable area.

 

[John Canfield]

Generally speaking, I think a motorhome has more convenient storage and more of it than most towables; it would be fairly easy to give it auxiliary heat if needed.  (I'm certain there are some large 5th wheels with gobs of storage, so I'm speaking in generalities here.) 

The other thing about a towable vs. motorhome is setup time.  We can have our Horizon completely set up in a campground literally in about ten minutes - Jane has her duties, we have automatic hydraulic leveling, and we are a well practiced team.  Most towables I see setting up take much  longer.  Most have manual stabilizing jacks and if you aren't level side-to-side, you have to run the tires up on some blocks.

For me, life is just a whole lot easier in a motorhome.

 

[Luca1369]

My basement compartments are not heated, but when it's really cold I'll put a 110 volt drop light in the compartments by the water tanks and another compartment that houses the water pump, valves, a sink, and outside shower rig. 

I don't know how these would hold up in truly frigid temps, but here it's been down to 12 and I've had no problems at all.

Steve

 

[Two gone rvn]

Any motorhome that has some age one it will require some work.  Be sure to allow extra monies for the issues that will pop up.  I sold an absolutely beautiful 90 Pace Arrow last summer for $7500 and it needed nothing.  What ever a dealer wants, make sure you so your homework before making an offer.  Also remember the dreaded dealer fees.  Some are charging upwards of $500 to $700 which is just dealer profit.  But most of all, enjoy your new RV like we are.
'

 

[AdkNorth]

Umm ... dealer fees? Tell me about that. Is that as in, "tacked on fees above and beyond the agreed on price."

 

[John Canfield]

Dealer fees yes...  ask upfront about any "administrative" fees, "processing" fees, "handling" fees "document" fees, etc.,  - dealers have some very creative names for these.  Some are upfront and call what it is - added dealer profit.

Remember - everything is negotiable.  As a matter of principal, I don't pay these "fees."  The first statement out of their mouth will probably be "but everybody pays these" - my answer is: "I don't."  If they won't give you the deal you want (taking into account these "fees"), walk away.  Like somebody else said, be sure and be ready for the phone call asking you to return.

Never, ever become emotionally attached to whatever it is you are purchasing.

 

[AdkNorth]

Awesome. Thanks for the info.

Just by virtue of the situation, I'll be perfectly clear with them - We're driving out of state to see these guys and are re-visiting three dealers along a 250 mile route. They could call me, but it better be fast - After a few hours, I'll be on the other side of a ferry, a five hour drive, and a state line.