Took the old Eagle for a drive

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Ok, I pulled out the manual and it says:The governor controls when the air compressor will pump air into the air storage tanks.  When air tank pressure rises to the "cut-out" level (around the 125 psi) the governor stops the compressor from pumping air.  When the tank pressure falls to the "cut-in" press (around 100psi) the governor allows the compressor to start pumping again.

I usually wait till the pist noise, where the system releases a burst of air.

I will go check it again to see what it is doing.

There is soooo much more to know about this unit then the gas one. jeez.

I also have what's called a dual air brake which is a dual air system and it uses a single set of brake controls. It says each system has its own air tanks, etc.  One operates the regular brakes on the rear axle or axles, the other operates the regular brakes on the front and possibly one rear axle.  Both supply air to the trailer, car? if there is one.

Before driving with a dual system allow time for the compessor to build to a minimum of 100 psi in both primary and secondary systems.  That's what I do.

Ok, I went out let it air up, the red gauge line is the one for the brakes, it goes to 60 and the buzzer turns off.  The unit continues raising and the white gauge is a bit slower then the red.  But they both go to about 118 and stop, then I hear the pssst noise or air release.  Neither goes above this to 125.  I looked and the chassis is raised up and brakes are functioning I checked.  When I went out to start it it was almost at 60 and I had ran it yesterday or was it the day before, didn't take long for the buzzer to go off.

Just looking at my battery levels and both are topped out.  Doesn't seem to take long for that to happen so the chargine system is good.  Tomorrow need to check the generator battery, it has a manual switch you are supposed to flip on while running down the road or so it says to charge it.  It will not charge from the other systems and no gauge for it anywhere, seems odd but thats the way it is way it is.  I check it with a meter.  I had not had the switch on all this time when running, so about a week ago charged the battery with our charger.

I need to look and see what if any of the tanks I have to empty. It states this chassis is equpped with an automatic air/moisture ejector for the air tanks drains for the braking system.  I'm thinking the pssst I'm hearing is this tank spitting instead of an air release.

So any other tanks to drain on a routine basis, need to read I guess?  And should I have the system checked since it doesn't reach 125 psi, when  I  go to the mechanic

Still learning it seems. 
 
Ok, I just realized that I'm confusing 2 systems.  The 2 gauges and air pressure is strictly for my braking system. I asked hubby why he didn't tell me this, he said I guess I didn't think you needed to know or some reason!  He probably thought I already knew it but I sure didn't. 

The leveling system is a separate entity.  I remember Tom measuring the coach from the ground but didn't really pay attention.  He said you do realize the same compressor feeds them both though. 

Also I noted that in the manual it says the tire size is 255/80 and a note in pencil saying that is this one.  However, our tires are 275/70R, so someone changed that out.  I was just reading on some forums that the original tires weren't big enough and were changed to the heftier ones long ago.

 
The air system is used for both the brakes and the air bag suspension.  Only one of the gauges (or tanks) feed the air bags so it will go down when you dump the air from the bags during leveling.

Not unusual for the original tires to be the minimum size to carry the GAWR.  We've gone from the original 245/70 to 255/70 to 275/70R22.5 tires just to have a safety margin and also a better ride.
 
It's not so much the amount of air pressure as the time to fill the air suspension. If you don't give it a few minutes at 90+ psi, the air bags aren't yet filled and the frame is sitting on the axles instead of lifted by the air bags. Moving before the air is "up" is uncomfortable at best and could conceivably cause a tire to rub or damage something.

Mine takes about 4-5 minutes to get fully up. The simplest way to know it is fully up is to wait for the whoosh that signals full pressure has been reached.
 
Marsha/CA said:
...
When climbing a steep grade you need to keep the rpms up to at least 2000 to keep the engine cool. 
...
Have fun!
Marsha~
Click to expand...

Of course that depends on the engine. My CAT C-13 is redlined at 1800 RPM, so there are variations.
 
I'm hoping the guy didn't damage something as I know 60 is not high enough to move it.  I guarantee you if I heard something making a terrible noise I would have stopped, idiot.

I'm still going to have the mechanic check under there and see if there is anything obvious messed up.

That's about what it takes mine is 4 or 5 minutes but when waiting it seems like a long time. 

That's what I do is wait for the pssst sound.  I thought after reading it was a spitter, Tom said it could be but he felt it was relieving pressure before it got to high.

I asked about draining the air tanks, the manual says its automatic then in another place said it wasn't.  Hubby said he is pretty positive it is, he said he drained them and hardly anything came out.
 
I'm hoping the mechanic can get my few things done in 1 day and I get it back to clean the inside and pack stuff to leave the next week.

But going to let some of you envy me today I get my bacon from a local meat market, its applewood smoked bacon.  I just had BLT's for lunch with home grown maters.  Now finishing off with a plate of sliced tomatoes, cukes, and bell peppers. I'm also cooking a big pot of fresh green beans with bacon.  Ahhhhhhhh ;D  I will never be a full timer as I just can't give up my garden I guess.
 
Carolyn,

Our spitter valve goes off when we get 130 psi in the air system.  Depending on how much air has drained, sometimes it takes longer than others to get to ride height.  We finally decided not to worry about how fast the air goes down unless it's a safety issue - most of the time it has nothing to do with safety.  The Monaco techs told us not to worry about it so we don't.  Just so you know there are numerous valves in the air system and just one of them that isn't perfect can drain air.  We had air leaks in our previous coach's air leveling system.  One turned out to be the air gauge itself which was defective!  Another was an air piston that operates the stairwell cover that goes in and out to cover the interior steps.  They all drew air from the same place so the air depleted.  None of these are serious enough to get excited or worry about.

ArdraF
 
Yes, that's what my husband says.  He said if you had problems it would run out of air and stop the coach.  He said this one just likes about 118 to 120, that they vary.  He said if the gauge starts going down and not building up find a place to get off the road pretty quick or the coach will stop itself when it gets low enough and you won't be able to move it.  Oh joy, joy.

Not worried, just curious.  Trying to digest as much of this stuff as I can before I take off.  There is just lots more to know about diesels then gas.  And knowing makes me a lot more confident and less likely to panic. 

Just need to remember, most important, checkbook! credit card! coach net!  ;D
 
With air brakes, the parking brake is spring actuated and is help off by the air pressure.  When the air pressure drops below a certain amount (45psi?) the springs will activate the parking brake and the vehicle will come to a stop.  It's not sudden, but it can't be moved until the air pressure is built up enough to release the parking brake.  It takes a large leak to lose that much air pressure, most leaks are small enough that the compressor can keep the system up, but it can happen.  You may never see it, but be aware of how the system works.

Here's a test procedure for air brakes from the forum library that will also give you a better understanding of the system
 
Thanks Ned, I will try that.

I'm more aggravated about the idiot that went ahead and drove it when he said it was popping loudly.  He said it did it on both turns he made apparently while moving it so I could leave.  I'm still irritated over someone doing that.  Where the hell is common sense.
 
I finally remembered the name of the RV repair I used about 3 years ago.  It's Feltons RV off I 45 and near 610 loop north Houston.  I hooked up the toad and went down the freeway bopping along.  It drives great with the semis on both sides, that sure feels better and I'm not buffeted all over. But to me it is BIG.  I know this is the limit of what I will ever drive.  I will do ok with it but no bigger. I notice I have to pay a lot more attention driving this one then the other or maybe I just feel I do. In this city traffic I really pay more attention anytime I drive anymore as it seems like the traffic keeps getting worse.  On the open road away from the city will be much easier I know. 

I called this morning and he said he had 5 that he had finished up so I went in after lunch and left the old bird.

A few things, the radiator flush, temps good, but hubby said better get it done.  Hoping it doesn't have a lot of rust so all they have to do is flush and not send to a radiator shop. 

We decided to go ahead and get new Bilsteins, Tom said probably more then he can do on the driveway as big as this one is.  Also I had my new Fantastic Fan switch could have done it, but they can in case something else is wrong.  Also the Pacbrake cylinder and the hour meter on the generator.  He is going to look and see if the one on the motorhome can be fixed, it says No prog. I would rather have it actually, but on the generator will do fine.

So hoping it will get done this week.  Seems like hubby said something about looking at another item but I don't remember what it was have to ask him.

So after many months we are finally getting there!!  Crossing fingers that we don't have to pull the radiator to have it serviced, $$$.

Hubby and I were talking tonight and he says oh look at Craigslist at that 2008 HR and its a bit smaller.  I says NO, we are going to use this one, I'm not looking because everyone we get will need work, some minor some major, so at this time no.  Now if I get turned down at a lot of parks for age or have constant repairs that might change things.  I kind of like the old bird and have no interest in going through repairs again for some time.

I remembered the other item, Tom thought there was more play in the steering then he likes and wanted them to see if it could be adjusted out or more.  Honestly I thought it was much better then the newer motorhome, but ok, I called and had them add it to the check list.  Also told them about not moving it till 100 psi.  This place works on all kinds of big motorhomes so I'm thinking not a problem, but then you never know, wish I had thought yesterday. So just waiting and hoping there are no surprises in what should be straightforward simple maintenance items.
 
We need to use this motorhome for quite awhile, we will never get out of it or even close the money we have in it. 

I'm worried about my kitty, she will be scared of all the noise I think, back is the engine, front is the generator.  I hope to get it back a couple of days and run the generator so she can get used to it.  I would leave her at a kennel but she is so old and set in her ways she just won't adapt.  She tried to bite the last attendent where we left her.  And when I got her out of that sterile cage with nothing in it but food and water and a litter box, I was sad she had been in that for 2 weeks, no blanket or anything.  So I figure baby will be better off with us.  She is 16.  Last night I was going to keep her out of my room, I washed all my linens and she sheds cat hair on them.  But anytime I open the door to go into the next room, there she is sitting at the door so I couldn't do it.  She curled up beside me and went to sleep after staring into my eyes forever and purring.  You like to think her little brain is thinking I love you.  But then she may be thinking, man you are a weird looking cat!
 
Howdy.
It might be worth your while to join a owners group - http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/American_Coach/. Please check it out.


Regards,
Liz
 
I belong to that but its not very active or I have trouble getting into it or something.

Also belong to rv.net and rvforum.
 
Gosh, I'm having problems with shops, like surprise.  I guess last week was a bad time to take the coach in, not much got done.  Then I find out the shop supervisor has been out sick.  I didn't hear anything back Friday afternoon, yesteday, or this morning so drove down.  Glad I did, I got with the owner.  They had bascially inspected the coach, I knew I should have gone there first.

He said the same thing Tom did, the hoses on the engine need replaced, but he said it might take a few days to find some of those for the older coach, he is going to drain, purge and flush the coolant system I think they have already drained it.

replace shocks, he had the price and it's probably to high, but the shop rate is $102 per hour and the shocks were not cheap I got Bilsteins

He said the differential seal leaks so R & R driveshaft, replace seal $479  Probably a $3 part with labor

But I know I took my Winnie in to him when I first got it and spent quite a bit, I knew exactly what was wrong as he inspected it before I bought it,  I never had  mechanical issues of any kind with it.  Just the tire issues, I put 2 new ones on the front when I bought it, it was the rear tires on it.

But the biggie is the coach rear leveling valve and main compressor leaks and we need to replace both as well as the air drier, choke choke on that price,  But he said this compressor feeds the air brakes and all that so is an essential part. 

But he told me after those are done I should have no mechanical worries and it should be good to go for a long time.  He said it has a good engine, good transmission, and generator.  Sadly this old girl had not had maintenance in some time we don't think, had just sat for several years, looks like and that causes a lot of issues.  I think we may need to keep her for some time to recoup the money we have spent. I didn't feel like it was that much before but this puts the expense up there but I still think its worth it.  I do not expect to recoup the money when it is sold, we will probably get 1/2 to 3/4's back depending on when we sell and to whom and I will write some off fromt he pleasure from it and that will be ok to, we know its a sunk cost.

I got a recall letter on hubbies new truck, something about an axle issue so that goes in,  glad its under warranty.

And on top of everything else I have a toothache so I need to call my dentist, its an old cap that must be decaying underneath, it comes and goes.

Going to be an expensive couple of weeks.

And I'm still here, darn it!!

Well got to get busy have lots to do around here anyway.
 
Was just thinking about this, I bet my pressure will go higher then 118 psi after this compressor replacement.
 
Do think twice about getting one this old.  I think hubby should have but now we have it and it is what it is. I will use it, most of the other was expected but to me this is getting to be more then I wanted to sink in this. 

If we buy another one later I think I'm going to do the buying. ::)

Just talked to my husband at least he has a good attitude about all this.  He said dear don't worry about it, at least we will have a good old motorhome you can feel comfortable with.

Ahhhh, its times like that that makes me realize I have a gem!  :-*
 
Carolyn,

For what it's worth, I think you BOTH have keepers!  ;D ;D

ArdraF
 
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