Water damage help
- Thread starter Jey
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
ClassyC
Well-known member
Haven?t been following your progress, but clicked on your latest video link. Lotsa work but at least it looks like you are turning the corner and heading for re-build. At least you know what you have and please take pride in what you are doing....
Lots of plans in the works. Every day finding a new piece or supplies we need for the project but it?s all moving along. Tomorrow we will fix the rest of the wall framing and hopefully start the floor.
I need to do more research about the exterior metal and how to staple it back to the wall and floor framing. I?m hoping I don?t have to pull them off and staple back on one by one
I need to do more research about the exterior metal and how to staple it back to the wall and floor framing. I?m hoping I don?t have to pull them off and staple back on one by one
Gizmo100
Well-known member
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- Sep 28, 2018
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It's coming along....I would say the back of the refrigerator is not coming off. But I may not have a clue what I'm talking about..LOL
regval
Well-known member
In an earlier post I recommended removing the door to narrow the width of the fridge so that it fits thru the door. Access to the hinge may be hidden by a snap-in clip near the door hinge. These compact fridges also may have a decorative upper panel that must be removed, but removing the door and hinges should do the job.
A model number of the fridge would help.
A model number of the fridge would help.
Thanks for the update. Getting R done 
)
I agree with regval, maybe the door off would give you the added room to get refer out of the trailer. I've never messed with one, but I don't think I would take apart the back, at all.
Wiring, oops, something I would do. Be careful walking about, it would be ugly on your leg if you step through...
Keep us posted
)I agree with regval, maybe the door off would give you the added room to get refer out of the trailer. I've never messed with one, but I don't think I would take apart the back, at all.
Wiring, oops, something I would do. Be careful walking about, it would be ugly on your leg if you step through...
Keep us posted
I?ve had the fridge door off for a while, Still about 4 inches too wide at the smallest angle.
My fridge is model RM2351
I don?t know how the heck this thing would get out of that trailer. So for now we?re just shifting it around carefully so it doesn?t end up on a weak spot in the floor
My fridge is model RM2351
I don?t know how the heck this thing would get out of that trailer. So for now we?re just shifting it around carefully so it doesn?t end up on a weak spot in the floor
Gizmo100
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It's possible they built the trailer around the refrigerator. It was likely thought the refrigerator would outlast the trailer.
As far as moving it around while redoing the floor make sure you put down a blanket to protect you new floor....When you get to the new floor.
As far as moving it around while redoing the floor make sure you put down a blanket to protect you new floor....When you get to the new floor.
regval
Well-known member
Jey said:
Wow, never encountered a RV fridge that wouldn't fit thru the entrance door. The smallest RV door width is 24 inches.
That model's width is 21-7/8 inches and ought to fit thru any RV door opening.
Here's a link to the installation manual so that when you get to the point of re-installing it, you'll have the info you need. It's very important that you seal the fridge cabinet (enclosure) from the living quarters of the trailer because of the combustible gases used when operating with propane gas.
https://www.dometic.com/assets/82/58/installation%20manual_58258.pdf?att=true
My travel trailer door width is 20?
I got desperate today and decided to remove the front face frame from the fridge, It was adding a good inch to the width of the fridge. After fighting with it for 20 minutes using my plastic putting knife to edge around it and break the adhesive loose I finally got it free but the bottom piece ripped a chunk of foam off under the fridge... so that wasn?t fun. I?m sure I could find a way to fix the foam since it?s external I just don?t know how yet.
But of course... it still didn?t fit.
There was a point where I debated just cutting the thing up and throwing it away and buying a residential fridge but 1. These things are expensive and I would feel wasteful for it and 2. It?s gonna have to be a tiny residential fridge to fit through that door.
There are ways I can get this thing out of here, We?re taking the floor beams out anyways I could cut some of the plastic back.. jack up the trailer and send the fridge through the floor...
But then once we rebuilt we have the same issue of the fridge not fitting through the door.
I haven?t made any decisions yet, Calling it quits for the evening until I can come up with something
I got desperate today and decided to remove the front face frame from the fridge, It was adding a good inch to the width of the fridge. After fighting with it for 20 minutes using my plastic putting knife to edge around it and break the adhesive loose I finally got it free but the bottom piece ripped a chunk of foam off under the fridge... so that wasn?t fun. I?m sure I could find a way to fix the foam since it?s external I just don?t know how yet.
But of course... it still didn?t fit.
There was a point where I debated just cutting the thing up and throwing it away and buying a residential fridge but 1. These things are expensive and I would feel wasteful for it and 2. It?s gonna have to be a tiny residential fridge to fit through that door.
There are ways I can get this thing out of here, We?re taking the floor beams out anyways I could cut some of the plastic back.. jack up the trailer and send the fridge through the floor...
But then once we rebuilt we have the same issue of the fridge not fitting through the door.
I haven?t made any decisions yet, Calling it quits for the evening until I can come up with something
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Conquest2011
Well-known member
Girl you are ripping the heck out of your RV. By the time you get it all back together you will be an expert RV renovator. You will know more of about an RV than most RV owners.
I know a lot people would be scared to death to tackle what you are doing.
I want you to know how much I enjoy watching your progress you are making. I see you are very insightful and have no fear of what to do next.
Keep up the good job and Gitter done!!
I know a lot people would be scared to death to tackle what you are doing.
I want you to know how much I enjoy watching your progress you are making. I see you are very insightful and have no fear of what to do next.
Keep up the good job and Gitter done!!
Conquest2011 said:
I?m becoming an expert at demolishing, We will see how the ?put back together? part goes lol
I really appreciate your kind words. I wouldn?t be at this point if it wasn?t for everyone on here helping me out. Seriously I didn?t haven?t a clue when I went into this and this forum has kept me sane and going in the right direction .
regval
Well-known member
Something new... For me, anyway. A 20" door. As you've stated, it won't fit. Maybe they brought it in thru a window after discovering it wouldn't fit thru the door during manufacture.
You're an inspiration to those who've had similar issues of water damage and felt overwhelmed at the thought of DIY.
Keep us updated.. Enjoying the show!
Reggie
You're an inspiration to those who've had similar issues of water damage and felt overwhelmed at the thought of DIY.
Keep us updated.. Enjoying the show!
Reggie
I?ve found a few that the width is 18?-19?
I?m trying to get one that weighs less than the dometic (78lbs according to the website)
I don?t want to remove the propane line because I may decide I want another rv fridge down the road. But I?m not sure how to safely cap it off from the rest of the propane system? I also need to cap off the one that originally ran to the stove top. We?re not putting it back in the trailer, We are just going to buy a single burner that plugs in. We cook on the grill a lot when we go on trips so I don?t think it will get used much anyways.
So there will be two propane lines not being used that I have to figure out how to safely close off but not remove
I?m trying to get one that weighs less than the dometic (78lbs according to the website)
I don?t want to remove the propane line because I may decide I want another rv fridge down the road. But I?m not sure how to safely cap it off from the rest of the propane system? I also need to cap off the one that originally ran to the stove top. We?re not putting it back in the trailer, We are just going to buy a single burner that plugs in. We cook on the grill a lot when we go on trips so I don?t think it will get used much anyways.
So there will be two propane lines not being used that I have to figure out how to safely close off but not remove
Take your fitting to Lowes or Menards, whatever you have. Are both fittings the same (stove and Refer) ? Often they connect with a 'flare' type fitting, so you would need a 'flare' type cap.
Maybe like this? https://www.lowes.com/pd/BrassCraft-3-8-in-Threaded-Cap-Fitting/50380804?cm_mmc=aff-_-c-_-prd-_-mdv-_-gdy-_-all-_-5509618-_-2617611-_-10935405&AID=10935405&PID=5509618&SID=769804878175783842%3APPdAuSZGHwNI&cjevent=e27a751e5d4711e9824200e50a240610
If you can't take a fitting, measure, and take a few pictures. Find someone in the plumbing dept a little knowledgeable (might be difficult )
Maybe like this? https://www.lowes.com/pd/BrassCraft-3-8-in-Threaded-Cap-Fitting/50380804?cm_mmc=aff-_-c-_-prd-_-mdv-_-gdy-_-all-_-5509618-_-2617611-_-10935405&AID=10935405&PID=5509618&SID=769804878175783842%3APPdAuSZGHwNI&cjevent=e27a751e5d4711e9824200e50a240610
If you can't take a fitting, measure, and take a few pictures. Find someone in the plumbing dept a little knowledgeable (might be difficult
)SpencerPJ said:Take your fitting to Lowes or Menards, whatever you have. Are both fittings the same (stove and Refer) ? Often they connect with a 'flare' type fitting, so you would need a 'flare' type cap.
Maybe like this? https://www.lowes.com/pd/BrassCraft-3-8-in-Threaded-Cap-Fitting/50380804?cm_mmc=aff-_-c-_-prd-_-mdv-_-gdy-_-all-_-5509618-_-2617611-_-10935405&AID=10935405&PID=5509618&SID=769804878175783842%3APPdAuSZGHwNI&cjevent=e27a751e5d4711e9824200e50a240610
If you can't take a fitting, measure, and take a few pictures. Find someone in the plumbing dept a little knowledgeable (might be difficult
So you?re saying I can?t just stuff them with paper towels? ?? thanks for the links!
Update video
https://youtu.be/b9kfFLLqjNc
Gizmo100
Well-known member
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- Sep 28, 2018
- Posts
- 3,065
Couple of thoughts....
The great stuff will work but it expands A LOT...So when it dries you will need to cut it back with a hand saw. But they did make a spray foam that doesn't expand near as much. It's made for use around vinyl windows. Might be worth looking for.
On the floor joist boards that are water damaged.....You could scab new boards onto the old instead of replacing the entire board. you may add a little weight but with the items your not replacing (oven/stove) you should be good.
The great stuff will work but it expands A LOT...So when it dries you will need to cut it back with a hand saw. But they did make a spray foam that doesn't expand near as much. It's made for use around vinyl windows. Might be worth looking for.
On the floor joist boards that are water damaged.....You could scab new boards onto the old instead of replacing the entire board. you may add a little weight but with the items your not replacing (oven/stove) you should be good.
Nice update.
Never seen that type of foam, I couldn't imagine it being special in that location. Things will start to come together once the floor gets down, I'd guess it's a slight challenge working in there as is. I like that you are doing it right.
Never seen that type of foam, I couldn't imagine it being special in that location. Things will start to come together once the floor gets down, I'd guess it's a slight challenge working in there as is. I like that you are doing it right.
