Old_Crow
Well-known member
The stuff Giz is talking about is still "Great Stuff". It just says something about low pressure expansion on the can. Should be right next to the regular stuff on the shelf.
Water damage help
- Thread starter Jey
- Start date
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Well I don?t have any videos to share with you today.
We?ve gotten a bit more done as far as framing the corner in the bathroom. Unfortunately I won?t get to work on it tomorrow because I have a 3am Shift on Saturday so I will need to get to bed early tomorrow evening. Torn between needing time off to work on the trailer and needing to work to have money to work on the trailer lol.
Tomorrow is pay day so I will be picking up more lumber, Strong ties, wire connectors and insulation board.
Over the last couple of days my hands have gotten pretty busted up! Smashed my thumb, Pricked my hand 1000 times with staples that are sticking out, and I?ve gotten three good size splinters. But it will be worth it in the end.
A lot of the underbelly tarp/fabric has gotten torn up on the edges trying to get things torn out and new wood put back in so I have to come up with an easy way to patch it. I don?t want to drop the tanks to replace the whole thing but I will need to fix it once the new floor goes in. I purchased a few sheets of 4ft x 14ft repair material on amazon and some repair tape specifically for it so we will see how it goes once it?s time to make the repairs. I want the underbelly to be water tight
We?ve gotten a bit more done as far as framing the corner in the bathroom. Unfortunately I won?t get to work on it tomorrow because I have a 3am Shift on Saturday so I will need to get to bed early tomorrow evening. Torn between needing time off to work on the trailer and needing to work to have money to work on the trailer lol.
Tomorrow is pay day so I will be picking up more lumber, Strong ties, wire connectors and insulation board.
Over the last couple of days my hands have gotten pretty busted up! Smashed my thumb, Pricked my hand 1000 times with staples that are sticking out, and I?ve gotten three good size splinters. But it will be worth it in the end.
A lot of the underbelly tarp/fabric has gotten torn up on the edges trying to get things torn out and new wood put back in so I have to come up with an easy way to patch it. I don?t want to drop the tanks to replace the whole thing but I will need to fix it once the new floor goes in. I purchased a few sheets of 4ft x 14ft repair material on amazon and some repair tape specifically for it so we will see how it goes once it?s time to make the repairs. I want the underbelly to be water tight
Gizmo100
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2018
- Posts
- 3,065
SpencerPJ said:
Adulthood is not what I was expecting ;D ;D
;D ;D ;D ;D
regval
Well-known member
Regarding the toilet flange removal. The black flange ring unscrews in a counter-clockwise direction. There may be wood screws securing the flange to the wood floor so be sure you have removed the screws first. You may be able to use the toilet mounting bolts as a way to unscrew the ring. Insert the screws in the flange ring as if you were going to reinstall the toilet, then use a long screwdriver or prybar, placing it across the opening of the flange, and use it to turn against upright bolts. Whatever method you use, the flange unscrews from tank opening fitting.
Keep up the work, your making progress!
Keep up the work, your making progress!
Alfa38User
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2007
- Posts
- 6,678
regval said:
On the other hand, that flange MAY be part of the uppermost pipe and will not unscrew as described above. Mine was like that and it necessitated modifying the flange to get bolt holes to match up that would work with a new toilet.
The only alternative in my case would have been to get underneath and cut the 3" pipe back and insert/glue a new piece but that was not practical at all.
regval
Well-known member
I agree, entirely possible to have a closet flange glued to the black tank entrance pipe or connector. I've had to repair two travel trailer floors where the closet flange had to be removed and both were screwed into the matching pipe connector. (See attachment for example of the threaded flange).Alfa38User said:
This enabled me to remove the closet flange and drop the tank without any major change to the waste plumbing. I thought all of the installs used the threaded closet flange until I researched and found some ABS types that required them to be glued. Thanks
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sorry I?ve been slow with my updates. Work got a little crazy the last couple weeks but I was still able to work on the trailer here and there.
I had the day off today and FINALLY... we got some plywood down. 15/32
It?s not screwed in or anything yet I?m gonna let it settle tonight since it got a little warped laying on the table while I painted the underside.
I couldn?t remember what the floor looked like around the fill tubes so I just cut a square around it (see photo) I made a mistake and filled the area back with foam not thinking I may need to replace those some day or check for leaks so I should probably cut some of that foam back out.
Praying there?s no rain tomorrow so hopefully I can get another sheet in.
I had the day off today and FINALLY... we got some plywood down. 15/32
It?s not screwed in or anything yet I?m gonna let it settle tonight since it got a little warped laying on the table while I painted the underside.
I couldn?t remember what the floor looked like around the fill tubes so I just cut a square around it (see photo) I made a mistake and filled the area back with foam not thinking I may need to replace those some day or check for leaks so I should probably cut some of that foam back out.
Praying there?s no rain tomorrow so hopefully I can get another sheet in.
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Gizmo100
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- Joined
- Sep 28, 2018
- Posts
- 3,065
The fun part of putting it back together is finding the mistakes you made. Hang in there your making progress.
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