2004 Trailblazer, My 1st step toward possible RVing

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You're thinking about it the right way, and have all the figures there. An addition I'd make is remembering that while cargo in the trailer may be at a 0.13 ratio for the tongue weight, it still counts pound-for-pound for towing weight. It that context it doesn't matter whether stuff is in the vehicle or trailer... it's being "towed" either way.

While it's important to understand those numbers fully, if you have to start over-justifying the load you are pulling... Then there's a good chance of cutting it too close for comfort when it comes real life towing situations. When it's all said and done, it's best to have some margin remaining for both towing weight and tongue weight.
 
Always shopping. A Suburban 2500 RWD, 159k with a 8.1l engine and 10400 towing capacity has showed up. Too expensive $9995, too big & heavy for any other purpose but towing, but it sure would open up travel trailer possibilities. Can't do it.
 
That Burb must have 3.73 gears to be limited to 10500#, otherwise with the 4.10s that generation (2001-2006 right?) with the 8.1L topped out at 12000# towing.

I had the prior version (1995 C2500 with 7.4L) and really liked it, both as tow vehicle and a daily driver.
 
I passed on a nicer newer Suburban for less money a couple years ago because I had just bought a Chrysler minivan. Wife said we gotta get rid of one vehicle if we get another one. I think I got away with buying the Trailblazer because it was really cheap and my everyday Chevy Malibu is nearing it's end due to rust.
Now to really throw a monkey wrench into my haphazard vehicle acquisitions, a 1989 Wanderlodge has come for sale locally. I don't know if I'm gonna get to see it. I couldn't tell the guy I'm a serious buyer, but I really want to get a close up look at a Wanderlodge. It looks pretty nice in the pictures. They want $34k. Wife would have to fall in love with it for that to happen.
 
Just tell him you don't know if you're a serious buyer until you see the coach. After the hunt I had for the coach I'm in, I'll never again be serious about one until I walk through it.
 
The 5300 tow wt is a theoretical max number for bragging rights. It is for a BASE model, no options other than towing options, only one 150 lb driver on board, no passengers and no cargo in the vehicle. It also is towing a load of bricks on a flatbed, NOT a high profile TT.
 
So what you're saying is 150 lb driver weigh is already figured into the specs. I can reduce my occupant weight by 150 lbs. I now have 150lb more unused cargo payload capacity.
 
1 axle vs 2 axle
If I focus on GVWR many campers get eliminated as too heavy but I notice that sometime when you compare similar sized floor plans, sometimes the unloaded 2 axle weight is only a little heavier than a similar 1 axle. The difference being the 2 axle has much greater cargo capacity.
I would think one can control the amount of cargo carried so that the loaded weight of the 2 axle trailer is not much heavier than the similar 1 axle.
So my question is, everything else being equal, Is there a difference in sway characteristics of 1 or 2 axle? Is 2 axle easier to control?
There is a used trailer for sale that is a little long at 21' 8", Dry wt 3333, hitch wt 552, but it's height is less than many at 8' 3", and the brochure says it has a smooth aerodynamic bottom. They don't give a model number but it seems to match a 2002, R-vision, Trail-lite 8211 in the brochure
I haven't plugged in the numbers to my Trailblazer specs, this is just arm chair research.
Looks like an acceptable floor plan and price is $4200
 
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I'm trying to tow with a marginally capable tow vehicle so I am absolutely going to load the trailer up to it's maximum possible weight, right?
 
I'm trying to tow with a marginally capable tow vehicle so I am absolutely going to load the trailer up to it's maximum possible weight, right?

Why would you do that?

The tow vehicle is responsible for "towing" even the items inside itself. It's a 1:1 ratio for weight of cargo, regardless of whether stuff is in the vehicle or the trailer.

True that the tongue weight of the trailer is at 10-15% of the trailer weight, but that's a different figure & separate consideration from overall towed weight.
 
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My experience has been the heavier the weight in the trailer the harder it is to tow and the worse it will handle. The secret is to eliminate the weight. If you have ever backpacked have that mentality. Would you carry 50 gallons of water in your backpack if water was available at your destination? Unless you are full timing storage room should never be a problem.
 
Just bought a used Anderson WDH.
Trailblazer passenger side front suspension is going together. Been fighting for days with a frozen brake bleeder screw.
 
Always shopping.
Within the price range of the small campers my Trailblazer might be able to tow is a Class A diesel pusher.
1995 Safari Sahara. They want too much for it at $15k but it's an easy drive to go take a look. NADA value is $8550 to $10300. Says he's owned it 12 years and previous owner, or one before that, replaced the engine. I wounder what that's about. I thought diesels were supposed to last. He says 65k miles. Just gonna look. Ain't making any decisions today.
 
After 10 months in the garage while I leisurely rebuild the front suspension of my 04 Trailblazer, it has finally come out of the garage, got insured and is getting some road time. I still need a wheel alignment, so that might be the problem, but this thing has sway without towing anything. I was able to set the toe close but camber/caster are too difficult. It feels like the rear end is trying to swing out with even a small steering correction. I've not even had it up to freeway speeds yet. Maybe hit 60 on the way to the grocery store. The way it feels I'd be scared to do an emergency maneuver.
I don't have any SUV driving experience but I have a minivan and have owned a couple pickups. I think I know what doesn't feel right. I've got new shocks in the back but haven't otherwise looked over the rear suspension much.
 
I'm still here. I started this thread 16 months ago. I'm still fixing some things on my 2004
Chevy trailblazer but at least it's on the road and I'm using it some. I have a problem with the front brakes heating up so I can't go too far. There's some new parts in there but something ain't right yet. Got more new parts. I really like driving it. Anyway I took another look at the towing capacity numbers.

There are 2 stickers on the door and door post.
The sticker on the door that has GVWR, GAWR and the VIN, gives a payload capacity of 1096 lbs.

The Tire & loading Information sticker on the door post says "The combined weight of occupants and cargo should not exceed 1146 lbs"
Why are these numbers 50 lbs different?

Payload capacity is what gets used up first in any towing calculation, for this vehicle, so every pound counts.
It's not clear whether I'll ever tow anything but I still want to know the limits.
Renting some small travel trailer is a possibility once the car is totally ready.
 
Glad to see you are making progress. However, I wouldn't tow anything except a tent trailer or light hybrid. It's just too easy for a heavier trailer to get into serious sway mode with such a short wheel base tow vehicle. And bad things can happen fast.
 
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