A shiny motorhome, whats the Trick to fading restoration?

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RedsToy

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2004 motorhome. Very nice interior. Exterior has fading stripes. Paint needs a very good cleand and shine. What are recommendations for making her look like new again?
 
My son does vinyl graphics but the cost even thru my son is expensive. I guess I'm more interested in how to make the home shiny.
 
On a previous motorhome, I renewed the graphics by masking the body around them, lightly sanding the vinyl, and then spraying them with Krylon Fusion paint for plastic. That was in 2012, and when I saw the coach last year, the graphics still looked pretty good.
 
Have it professionally detailed - if you don't want to take it somewhere, there are many mobile services, usually independent guys who run around with their own equipment.

The should be able to buff the exterior of the motorhome and remove the oxidation on both fiberglass and paint. They can't do much about fading or etching, or heavily damaged clear coating. Sometimes a surface is just too far gone to revive. But a good buff and coat of wax should improve the appearance as good as it's going to get without a full repaint.
 
Griots Ceramic Speed Shine and Ceramic 3 in 1 wax. Stuff goes a long way. On the advice of a friend I clay barred the windows with the speed shine and won't go back to Rain-X again.
 
This is hard to answer without knowing what the factory finish is, lower end coaches will have fiberglass with gelcoat and vinyl graphics which are prone to cracking. Higher end coaches may have full body paint which tends to last longer, but also requires slightly different care when it comes to restoration.

There is not much you can do about vinyl stripes other than remove them, which in itself is a big chore, then replace them with either new vinyl or paint. Gel coat can be restored through buffing and polishing, this process removes the upper oxidized layer of the gel coat, then you can add a protectant. Gel coat tends to be much thicker than paint and clearcoat so is somewhat forgiving when it comes to using polishing compounds to remove the upper layer, though done wrong this can still destroy the finish on any vehicle. Restoration of full body paint is much more complicated and depends on how far gone it is.
 
Griots Ceramic Speed Shine and Ceramic 3 in 1 wax. Stuff goes a long way. On the advice of a friend I clay barred the windows with the speed shine and won't go back to Rain-X again.

Griots makes good products, but the two listed are meant to be used on a properly prepared surface. Putting wax or shine juice on an oxidized surface will have short-lived results, and Griots isn't exactly cheap stuff.

I think the question is whether or not polishing can restore the OP's rig. Griots makes good polish too, but should be professionally done if OP has no experience. Polish first, then wax. Their 3-in-1 ceramic has a tiny bit of solvent to help clean the paint deeper, but it's not a substitute for polishing.

A Clay bar removes embedded particles so polishing/waxing goes a lot smoother. As mentioned, it does a good job on windows too.

I actually have some of their Ceramic spray wax on order! I haven't used it before but trust the name.
 
This is hard to answer without knowing what the factory finish is, lower end coaches will have fiberglass with gelcoat and vinyl graphics which are prone to cracking. Higher end coaches may have full body paint which tends to last longer, but also requires slightly different care when it comes to restoration.

There is not much you can do about vinyl stripes other than remove them, which in itself is a big chore, then replace them with either new vinyl or paint. Gel coat can be restored through buffing and polishing, this process removes the upper oxidized layer of the gel coat, then you can add a protectant. Gel coat tends to be much thicker than paint and clearcoat so is somewhat forgiving when it comes to using polishing compounds to remove the upper layer, though done wrong this can still destroy the finish on any vehicle. Restoration of full body paint is much more complicated and depends on how far gone it is.
It's a 2004 Damon Challenger. Very nice motorhome. I don't believe it's been really washed for a long long time as the ladies husband took care of it and he had passed a few years back.
 
But vinly is only a temporary solution. For a permanent fix, peal the vinyl graphics off clean the entire surface Including polishing compound to get everything really shiny and slick. Mask off the ghost lines and paint them. You can have automotive paint made up in rattle cans at most any automotive paint store in any colors you choose. Paint the decal ghosts, and after,it's thoroughly dry give the whole MH a wax job. Several coats of machine applied wax and polish and it will look good again.
 
303 isn't a magic cure for existing fiberglass oxidation. It's more a preventative rather than a fix. It takes a lot of soaking & rubbing to remove oxidation with 303 and I suspect most regular car or boat polishes is faster and easier.

Once a surface is oxidized the solution always involves a lot of "elbow grease". Machine buffing saves some human effort, but it's still a chore.
 
All my decals on my 2008 Class C need attention so I am going to air brush them back to "new" this coming spring. Painters tape and masking paper is cheap and so is my time. I just need the weather to cooperate when the time comes. I'll be finding color matching paint over winter.
 

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