Alaska with the Brewer's 06

[Betty Brewer]

August 10, 2006? ? Day? ?79? ?Glennallen? working our way to Valdez?

We left our lovely boondocking spot and headed onward toward Glennallen.? We pulled off at most of the easy access scenic view pullouts.? Touring some of them we had to laugh, as they must have been built years ago and the trees have long since grown up to cover any possible view.? Not much was lost however as we had a cloudy day with misty rain and if a mountain was going to appear in the distance, it would have been a miracle.? Despite the poor weather, the scenery is still outstanding and the interpretive signs gave us a wealth of information.? We traveled along the Matsunuska River today and the road was as windy as the river.? It would have been a perfect road for a convertible sports car! But the guys decided there might have been mosquitoes so we are keeping our motorhome and not trading for a sports car.? ?We have had almost no mosquitoes all summer and we are thankful.? Maybe the cool damp weather has kept them away.? Who cares why?we are just glad to have not been bothered by them so far! We stopped at the Matsunuska Glacier State Recreation area and viewed the glacier from afar.? The interpretive center panels were very informative.? I could not recall all of the information so I took photos.? The bark beetle news was partiality interesting as the insect has always existed but just now he is overtaking so many of the black spruce trees as to kill off an entire eco system.? ?When we arrived at Glennallen we visited the Copper Valley Visitor Center and were not impressed with the information or enthusiasm of the staff.? We drove 7 miles down the road to the exquisite and only 4 year old Visitor center for the Wrangle-St.Elias National Park.? The film they shared as an overview was among the most outstanding films I have seen.? The aerial pilot photographer took 4 years to make it, as he had to wait for the perfect weather to get the shots he did.? This National Park is called the Crown of the Continent in that it holds 4 major mountain ranges that meet in the park and has 9 of the 16 highest peaks in the Untied States.? This National Park is? ?the largest in the US and is as big as 6 Yellowstone?s.? ?The Wrangle Mountain Range is volcanic in origin and it joins the Kluane National Park in Canada.? The summit we crossed today was just over 3000 feet and the vegetation changes with the altitude. We are seeing more of those spindly black spruce trees which look sick but I guess we would too if we had to endure the temperatures they do, have our roots in Perma frost and winters with no sun!? ?

Back in Glennallen we visited The Wildlife Museum, which is a collection of Alaskan animals nicely preserved by the taxidermist owner in realistic settings, though somewhat gruesome.? Survival of fittest still reigns in the food chain.? The tour books guided us to look for place where the Alaska Pipeline goes underground to allow our road to cross over it.? Since this Pipeline is the one very much in the news now, we searched for it to have a look.? Note photos.? It was more impressive to see it out here in the wild than where we last saw it in Fairbanks at a regularly scheduled tourist stop.? The pipeline is nearly 5 feet in diameter and over 800 miles of insulated pipe.? The pipe was built above ground with heat transfer fins in the upright posts to help keep the perma frost ground frozen that the posts sit on.? The pipeline rests on Teflon coated crossbeams so it can move in an earthquake without breaking. We kept off it as instructed. That is a lot of pipe to maintain!? Russ fixed his chili and I fixed coleslaw from his grandma?s recipe.? I told you he is going to make a cook of me yet!? Tomorrow Terry and I will head for Kennecott Mines.? It is a 120-mile dirt road and we will take our lunch for the long day.? Russ is heading for Valdez and will hopefully save us a place!

Statistics:
Motorhome Miles Driven: 124? ? ?Car fuel,? $3.22? ? ?per gallon
Wildlife sightings: 0 because Wendy won?t let me count those we see in a wildlife Museum
Temps:? High? ?62? ? ? ?Low 48
Camping Costs: $18? Water/electric? Broadway RV Park (formerly Hickock and sons)
GPS: 62.106845,-145.515352

 

[Tom]

Betty,

You just keep "wow'ing" us with your reports and photos.

I just took a peek at the views for this topic and had another big WOW! Look at the Trip reports, journals and logs board and scroll down to this topic. Then look across to the right side of the page to see the views. Lots of folks are following your travels.

A big thank you for all your efforts to capture the trip in both words and photos. We all feel like we're right there with you and Terry. (BTW Russ is looking pretty darned good!)

 

[Shayne]

2nd Tom statement  Great views.  Yep Russ looks relaxed and enjoying the moment.  Betty  you seem to always be in that mode.  Good luck on your return venture.

 

[Betty Brewer]

You just keep "wow'ing" us with your reports and photos.

Tom,

Blush, blush Thank You.  Terry is the photographer and Russ is leading us to all the good spots with his prior experiences here in AK  4 years ago.  I am thrilled that so many are joining us on our trip via the Forum.  I hope it inspires some to make the visit. I hope those who have been before can review and say"Yes I've seen that!"  I hope those who can't come to Alaska get a little flavor of the state from  my journal. It continues to exceed expectations.

And thank you Shayne for your untiring cheer leading!

Betty

 

[vlady daddy]

I haven?t seen so many bear sighting in just one journal. Do you take special precaution cooking meals outdoor? I wonder what happen to the German Tour Bus group. You had pictures of the red bus full of kitchen gadgets for outdoor cooking. It looks like a fast food drive thru for a hungry bear.

 

[Betty Brewer]

I haven?t seen so many bear sighting in just one journal. Do you take special precaution cooking meals outdoor? I wonder what happen to the German Tour Bus group. You had pictures of the red bus full of kitchen gadgets for outdoor cooking. It looks like a fast food drive thru for a hungry bear.

We have not cooked any meals outside of our motorhome.  We  have eaten outside at a picnic table on a very few occasions when weather permitted.  Most likely, the German tour bus is big enough and red enough and noisy enough to scare away a bear, but you never know!  The camp grounds with tenter's have all made a big deal about keeping food in bear proof caches.  Some even provided such lockers in the campground. We just kept our food in the refrigerator or better yet, ate out! 
Betty

 

[Wendy]

Wildlife sightings: 0 because Wendy won?t let me count those we see in a wildlife Museum

Somehow counting dead wildlife, either roadkill or stuffed in a museum, just doesn't seem right....kind of takes the "life" out of "wildlife."  Especially in a place like Alaska where there is an abundance of life wildlife.

 

[Terry A. Brewer]

Wendy

>> Alaska where there is an abundance of life wildlife.<<

Since everyone in Alaska has several guns, rifles, fishing poles, fish wheels & dip nets....there are no longer any wildlife in Alaska, you have to go to Canada to see them.<G >

Since we have been in Alaska the only wildlife we have seen is on the glacier cruises.? When we were in Canada we saw bears & moose? almost daily.

 

[Betty Brewer]

August 11, 2006? ? Day? ?80? ? ? ?Glennallen to Chitina and Back?

Today was one of those make lemonade out of lemon days or whatever the saying!? We awoke to rain and it had rained all night long.? This prompted us to change our plans of driving 120 miles on a dirt road to the Kennicott Mine and try again on the way back from Valdez as we backtrack to Palmer.? We slept in and then Terry went out to breakfast.? Russ is so easy going that he decided to stay with us for the extra day.? We knew of some scenic drives ?up the road.? and took off in the car at 12:30, armed with cameras, binoculars, rain jackets, maps, tour books and snacks.? You can never be too prepared!? First stop was at the local Espresso stand of which Russ is a connoisseur.? Then off down the road we went.? It actually stopped raining but was still very cloudy.? We drove some 64 miles along the border of the Wrangle-St Alias National Park to Chitina, which was once proposed as the capitol of Alaska.? It was once a major supply center when the Copper River was used to ship goods.? It fizzled when the CRNW railroad failed.? The little community is very quaint and has 2 restored buildings, a hotel and an Art Gallery. Russ found a ?souvenir?; I did not.? ?The wonderful surprise of this day was the find we made just over the river beyond Chitina to a fishing area in which only native Alaskans are allowed to fish. There, along the Copper River, which is the most heavily sedimented river in Alaska, were dozens of fish wheels.? These home made contraptions are set along the river designed for the water?s current to turn them.? The baskets scoop up the fish and deposit them in a holding area for the fisherman.? We had to drive out across a few running streams to see this event.? It is NOT on the tourist trails!? Boy did we have fun.? We saw fisherman cleaning fish and the seagulls were happy with the leftovers.? Who cares that the mountains were enveloped in clouds, we saw the locals fishing in a long-standing traditional way.? ?The fish wheel is thought to have originated in China and was brought here.? What a thrill.? Because I had the Milepost on my lap in back seat, I guided us to a small turn out where we discovered Liberty Falls and took lots of photos.? The rushing water was immense and we would never have seen it, had I not been reading The Milepost.? If you come here, it is the Bible of Alaskan travel.
On the return trip home, the view of the Wrangle Mountain range was even more invisible than on the way out.? We stopped at Copper Center to see their historical buildings.? The good news was the museum was free; the bad news it was closed.? We marched onward toward home.? One Espresso stop later for Russ and one Native Gift store stop for me and we landed home.? Our sights are set on moving to Valdez tomorrow.? Will it ever quit raining?? Chet are you happy now?? If what locals say about the Fireweed blooming out and winter sets in, we?d better get going.? All of the Fireweed was bloomed completely out in this area!

Statistics:
Motorhome Miles Driven: 0?
Wildlife sightings: 1 chipmunk
Temps:? High 56? ? ? ?Low 45  0.41 inches of rain
Camping Costs:? $18 water/elec, Boardwalk RV Park

 

[Wendy]

there are no longer any wildlife in Alaska, you have to go to Canada to see them.<G >

Cool....I can save myself a ton of miles (and money) and just go to Canada !!! With maybe an Alaska cruise to spot the wildlife on the glaciers.

 

[Shayne]

Forever enjoyable pics.

 

[Alaskansnowbirds]

August 11, 2006    Day  80      Glennallen to Chitina and Back 

The wonderful surprise of this day was the find we made just over the river beyond Chitina to a fishing area in which only native Alaskans are allowed to fish.

Betty,

You are correct about only native Alaskans are allowed to fish there with fish wheels. Non native Alaskans can fish there using dipnets if you get a dipnetting permit.  It falls under Personal Use and Subsistence Fisheries. The Alaska Bird and Feather boys & girls keep a close eye on how many fish you catch and which breed of fish you get. Remember that phone book of regulations you mentioned. In there it tells you how many Kings, how many silvers etc. that you can catch in the Copper River. There is also a total limit for the river so you have to report to the check station when you leave how many of each kind of fish you caught. When the total limit is reached the whole fishery is closed.

If you want some excitement, get a 40 to 50 pound King salmon in your net on the end of a 10 to 12 foot pole.

Anyone interested in more information can check out Dipnetting information.

 

[Shayne]

I'd love to fish that way but I have trouble drowning worms.  Sure do appreciate those that can fish.

 

[Betty Brewer]

August 12, 2006    Day  81          Glennallen to Valdez

Another leisurely start to the day and we were on the road by 11:30 a.m.  We only had 119 miles to go and had traveled some of the same road yesterday.  It was a good road with a few whoop de doo?s!  Even though the bumps are well marked with red flags, my stomach still flips when we go over them.

Now a few days ago Lorna and Ned  drove this road and reported  the views to be like a little Switzerland.  We will have to take their word for it, as we did not see any of it.  The fog and low cloud cover was so thick we could only see up to the top of the nearest spruce trees.  The road was clear so we could see how very little traffic we were encountering but what a gloomy day.  We got a few glimpses of the Worthington Glacier and Bridal Veil Falls and Horsetail Falls but we will have to go backing the car when weather lets up.  It?s just got to get sunny again sometime.  I was a little worried when we crossed through the summit at Thompson Pass.  While it is only 2800 feet, this pass receives the greatest amount of snowfall of any place in Alaska. Average snowfall here in winter is 325 inches with a record of 5 feet in 24 hours!  I thought it might snow on us today but the signs below indicated the pass to be open and the temps only dropped to 46.  It might as well have been a snow white out for all that we could see.  The snow poles reached far above our heads (even in motorhome) to mark the way for snowplows.  The last 7 miles were that terrible black gravel construction road stuff.  It blackened our vehicles. 

We checked into the Sea Otter Campground that was very crowded.  There is a Women?s Fishing Derby going on and hopefully tomorrow we can move to a waterfront sight.  First thing the guys did was to hose off the cars so they could see out windshield to park them.  We had dinner at Ernesto?s.  It will make the ?restaurant list?  not only for the good Mexican food but because Terry asked for extra onions in his enchilada and  they served him a plate of white sliced onions.  When the bill came he was charged $2.50 for an order of onion rings. Russ had asked for extra lettuce and he was charged for a side of salad.  We had a little chuckle. We think the waiter spoke Russian. Russ treated us to a tour of the town after dinner. Low thick fog is still here at 9:00 pm and we can hardly see the harbor.  I think it is winter in Alaska.

Statistics:
Motorhome Miles Driven:    119 
Wildlife sightings: 1 rabbit, several bald eagles, 2 swans
Temps:  High  51      Low  46  0.08 inches of rain
Camping Costs: $22 water/ poor 20 amp elec.  Sea Otter Campground
GPS: 61.12336, -146.35083

 

[Betty Brewer]

There is also a total limit for the river so you have to report to the check station when you leave how many of each kind of fish you caught. When the total limit is reached the whole fishery is closed.If you want some excitement, get a 40 to 50 pound King salmon in your net on the end of a 10 to 12 foot pole.

Don,
Thank you for that very interesting information.  I did not see a check station .  I will look for it when we drive back to take the road to McCarthy.

Betty

 

[Lorna]

Betty

Sorry that you didn't get to see the beautiful scenery on the way to Valdez but it really is there.  Hopefully the sun will come out soon and you will get to see how beautiful it is there.  When the sun does show make sure you drive out the Mineral Creek Trail because it is also very scenic.  Can't remember if I told you about the Totem Inn but they have very good food and reasonable prices also a very nice gift shop.  Whatever you do don't bother with the restaurant at the Best Western at the Marina because we asked for English muffins with our breakfast and they charged an extra $3.50 a piece for them.  Let me tell you it was the most expensive breakfast we have had ever. 

The drive today from Tok with Frank and Barb was very tiring because of all the frost heaves.  We did have some rain but most of the day was just overcast and we are at Destruction Bay and will head for Haines tomorrow.  No problem going through customs in Canada and will see how it goes tomorrow getting back into the US.

 

[Shayne]

Dang it that Ned had muffins again andwe didn't even get a sniff of them.

 

[Lorna]

They were nothing special just plain old English muffins that you buy at the grocery store.  That is the first time we had to pay extra and the waitress never bothered to tell us they weren't included even though 12 grain toast or regular toast was.

 

[Betty Brewer]

August 13, 2006? ? Day 82? ? ? ? ?Valdez, AK?

Today was Sunday and several locals who come here for the weekend to fish, checked out.? We quickly nabbed the sights Russ had in mind on the waterfront.? Even though these sights cost $5 more per night we think the daylong entertainment value is well worth it!? ?It is a parade of boats.? Big ones, little ones, coast Guard, commercial fishing, and the big ferries.? What a show.? We sit and watch and speculate the cargo and the purpose of trip. When mom and pop are in their fold a boat with a net and a pole, the purpose is pretty obvious.? ?Some of the huge trawlers with cranes aboard or an 18-wheeler as cargo are a little harder to guess. All of the passengers in little open boats look cold to us.
Our first shopping trip of the day was to ?Prospectors?, a very nice sports outfitters store, where we both bought waterproof shoes. The parking lot here is about 3 inches deep in water and it went over the top of our tennis shoes so now we can have dry feet.? Everyone wears them!? Russ already had his boots handy in a bay.? While the fog has lifted, it is still cloudy but we can see the islands in the bay and watched the ferry go in and out. I just reviewed Gary Brink?s log of their 2002 trip to Valdez and found he experienced the same kind of weather. ? We went to the Valdez Museum and were impressed with the quilt displays and the memorabilia from gold rush, earthquake and oil drilling days. It is one of the nicest buildings in town.? The city itself is spread out and not very aesthetically pleasing.? Translation, Valdez has zero character or architectural interest. Most buildings are just square with metal siding but they are colorful!? But hey, we are retired and traveling and nothing will spoil our days.? I have new shoes!

Statistics:
Motorhome Miles Driven:? Moved across parking lot probably 300 feet? ?to sights 40 and 41.
Wildlife sightings:? 1 Sea otter, seagulls
Temps:? High? ?51 (at 7 pm) Low 47  0.08 inches of rainfal
Camping Costs:? ?$ 27? ?Water /elec.? Good 20-amp? ?power

 

[Ken & Sheila]

Betty,

Do they still have the beautifully restore firefighters wagon in the Museum?

I do remember that we had planned on two days at Valdez but ending up spending three and a half. The half day was a late check out on the last day so we could go to the Museum!

ken