Class C maintenance?

[Eires37]

Hi everyone. We are new members on this forum, and the new first-time owners of a 2003 Ford e450 class c motorhome. It has 36,000miles on it, the previous owner rarely used it and had been sitting for several years.

What would you recommend for maintenance? I have replaced all tires, alternator, Idler, belt tensioner & serpentine belt - the old belt actually failed. I will do oil & filter, transmission fluid, and coolant flush.

Would you guys recommend repacking wheel bearings, rear diff. Fluid, brake fluid etc?

Thanks everyone!

 

[Rene T]

Would you guys recommend repacking wheel bearings, rear diff. Fluid, brake fluid etc?

Thanks everyone!

Most definitely especially the wheel bearings. You don’t want one of them failing out in the middle of nowhere.
You should also inspect all the hoses. Coolant and vacuum etc..

 

[TheBar]

Old RVs need a lot of preventative maintenance if you want reliability. Definitely flush the brake fluid and differential. Check the rubber brake lines for any cracking. The radiator and heater core hoses are likely the original so I would replace them. I would also replace the fuel filter since the gas tank has had old fuel sitting in it for a long time. Lube the front suspension and u-joints if they have zerk fittings. Clean out the fridge, furnace, and water heater compartments.

My RV was about that age when I bought it and had never had any water leaks. But in the past I bought an RV that had "water cancer" dry rot from leaks. So I coated the whole roof with Liquid Roof and put Eternabond around all 4 edges, the roof vents, and the troublesome rounded front edge of the cabover. Which should be good for 20 years unless you get damage from a falling tree limb like I did. Carry a small roll of Eternabond for emergencies like that. I also caulked around all the windows and clearance lights with clear Geocel caulking. Hopefully you will have good luck and make many good memories with yours.

 

[Eires37]

Thanks for the tips so far. We hope to enjoy many years of RVing. I'm still working 50hr weeks, but will retire in a few years when my wife retires. This new RV has eaten up a bunch of time, the serpentine belt replacement was painful as there is limited room in the engine bay of the Ford e450. We are having it summarized in May, and will have a complimentary roof inspection. I've noticed the clearance lights and tail lights have a bead of silicone around the housing.

I changed the old oxidized headlights out for new lights with led bulbs - that makes a huge difference in appearance & safety. I've attached a picture of the air filter. How they let it get this bad is beyond belief.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Tough call on an 18 yo vehicle. It's obviously best to be proactive and prevent failures, but there is no end of things you could overhaul or replace. If you can DIY, the cost isn't bad and only you can value your time. Aversion to risk is also a personal thing - some people aren't fazed by problems on the road while for others it is stark terror.

If it is equipped with a generator, don't forget it too has oil & filter, air cleaner and fuel filter.

 

[Eires37]

Tough call on an 18 yo vehicle. It's obviously best to be proactive and prevent failures, but there is no end of things you could overhaul or replace. If you can DIY, the cost isn't bad and only you can value your time. Aversion to risk is also a personal thing - some people aren't fazed by problems on the road while for others it is stark terror.

If it is equipped with a generator, don't forget it too has oil & filter, air cleaner and fuel filter.

It has an Onan 4.0 microquiet. The oil has been overfill by previous owner, so I'm draining and refilling today. I can't seem to find mention of an oil filter in the Onan manual though - air filter is clean, will have to source fuel filter. We will be driving in areas without cell phone coverage, so I I want to be proactive... I have a spare serpentine belt, as well as a brand new one already installed.

Cheers.

 

[Ex-Calif]

It's largely opinion but I am averse to routinely changing trans fluid. Unless the original owners manual recommends it. Over 40 years I have heard tons of stories of tranny's working fine and then shifting issues after a flush. If the fluid is pink to pinkish with minor browning and smells like tranny fluid (not burnt wood) I leave it alone.

Same with differentials. Pull the plug and top it up but little value in draining them. I have a Jeep with 4 gearboxes. I just topped them all off at 130k miles.

You can go more and ore proactive - but when I get into a "system" I do it all. For example. Brakes. My RV is 25 years old. If I get a cylinder or hose leak. The entire system will get restored - new flex hoses at all the corners, new slave cylinders and "perhaps" wheel calipers and cylinders. If one failed the others aren't far behind. In the classic car world we call that a rolling refit as opposed to putting the car on blocks and doing a frame up "restoration"

Mission critical stuff like engine, engine fluids, engine hoses etc. I always go proactive. Stupid to be stuck on the side of the road for a $20 belt or a $10 hose. I replaced all that stuff when I got my RV. The "used" serviceable ones are in the tool locker (just in case).

 

[Eires37]

It's largely opinion but I am averse to routinely changing trans fluid. Unless the original owners manual recommends it. Over 40 years I have heard tons of stories of tranny's working fine and then shifting issues after a flush. If the fluid is pink to pinkish with minor browning and smells like tranny fluid (not burnt wood) I leave it alone.

Same with differentials. Pull the plug and top it up but little value in draining them. I have a Jeep with 4 gearboxes. I just topped them all off at 130k miles.

You can go more and ore proactive - but when I get into a "system" I do it all. For example. Brakes. My RV is 25 years old. If I get a cylinder or hose leak. The entire system will get restored - new flex hoses at all the corners, new slave cylinders and "perhaps" wheel calipers and cylinders. If one failed the others aren't far behind. In the classic car world we call that a rolling refit as opposed to putting the car on blocks and doing a frame up "restoration"

Mission critical stuff like engine, engine fluids, engine hoses etc. I always go proactive. Stupid to be stuck on the side of the road for a $20 belt or a $10 hose. I replaced all that stuff when I got my RV. The "used" serviceable ones are in the tool locker (just in case).

Thanks for your post... exactly what I'm thinking. I've read that most oils attract "moisture" But I was wondering about changing the diff fluid & tranny fluid/filter? Guys with classic cars, I mean trailer queens like Shelby, GTO Judge etc. Those cars are rarely driven, do those guys go and change a bunch of fluids to avoid "moisture" do their rad hoses, heater core & hoses need replacing simply due to age, but little to no mileage accumulated? I agree, a person could spend all their free time & $$$ on preventative maintenance. I guess we have to choose what really is most important for maintenance. I already have many hours invested in this rig, which I don't mind doing, and only had it two weeks. The serpentine belt install was a huge pain.

 

[Ex-Calif]

Moisture comes primarily from differential temperatures. Warm moist air hits cool metal and condensation forms. True classic car guys control both humidity and temperature in their garages.

Condensates in oil will steam off when the oil gets warm. However, the water leaves but any "salts and dirts" from the environment stay behind this raises acidity and can cause corrosion on internal parts.

So the science is not rocket science. Changing the oil can be good and I do that on my classic cars at 6 months because I never get 3,000 miles done in that time.

The tranny for me however is a bit different. My theory is that debris and minor sludge can accumulate in the pan. Once "stirred up" by a flush this stuff gets into valving and or the clutch bands and cause mischief. The valving is very precision unlike clearances in the engine.

 

[DonTom]

Over 40 years I have heard tons of stories of tranny's working fine and then shifting issues after a flush.

Also, leaks are very common right after a flush on an auto tranny.

IMO, it's best just do nothing to an auto tranny until it craps out, other than perhaps check the fluid level once in a great while. And even that shouldn't change until there is a problem.

IOW, change tranny fluid often or do not change it at all. No moderation on this. Do one extreme or the other.

Your new tranny will have the new tranny fluid! That's how I got my fluid changed a couple of years ago, at well above 100K miles.

But if you do change it, change it often from the start. Don't wait until the tranny oil is old when you change it. That helps prevent problems. For an example, the fluid when dirty helps to STOP leaks. So right after old tranny fluid is changed, you often get new leaks. But if you change it often, well before it gets dirty, and had no leaks, it should then be okay to change.

But I will just wait until my tranny craps out again. I will most likely be dead by then anyway!

-Don- Auburn, CA

 

[skydivemark]

Along with brake hoses and flushing Be sure the brake calipers aren't binding and pistons arent rusted. They could cause brakes to stick and not completely release in turn causing a variety of other problems.

 

[Skookum]

Just a couple things come to the top of my mind.

Chassis -

Engine oil
Oil filter
Air filter
Fuel filter
Check plug wires
Replace serpentine belt
Inspect water pump for leaks - also inspect hoses
Flush coolant and replace thermostat.
Inspect power steering fluid. If dirty, have it flushed.
Inspect valve cover seals, plenum, and oil pan. for leaks.
Check for any leaks underneath - front cover and rear main seal
Inspect exhaust for rust - it's almost 20 years old. If not in a salt state, the exterior might look fine, but it may be nearly rusted out from the inside from condensation.

Lots of opinions on transmissions. Personally, I'd drain/fill, and drop the pan and replace the filter too. And then do it again within about 10k to get even cleaner fluid since a lot of it will be trapped in the torque converter on the first drain/fill. And then about every 25k after that - or follow the manufacturer's recommendations. But with 36k, that makes me nervous as a matter of course that it may have never been done.

Have the brakes flushed. Also inspect all the hard lines for rust, rubber lines for deterioration. Inspect brake calipers, pistons for leaking at the wheel. Inspect brake linings for adequate pad life. Inspect park brake cable or system and adjust if needed.

Check any serviceable wheel bearings. If easy, repack.

Drain/fill the rear axle. Inspect for any leaks at the cover and axle seals.

Consult the owner's manual for any grease fitting locations on driveline or suspension, grease as needed with the correct grease***

Inspect the shocks for any leaking. How does it ride? If you get a lot of pogo motion going down the road they might be shot.

Tires - you mentioned they are all new. It's worth learning the correct inflation PSI for how heavy your RV is. It involves weighing out the axles on a scale and adjusting accordingly. It's ultimately worth it for both tire longevity and ride.

YOUR GENERATOR should also be gone through. The model number should be on the case. Googling that should find you a manual. I've bought "OE" Green-label Onan parts from this site before. Not the cheapest but great service / response. https://www.cumminsonanstore.com
Coolant flush
Fuel filter, Air filter, oil filter. They can have drive belts too.
Inspect the exhaust for leaks or rust
Check cable connections for corrosion.

Lube the door hinges, hood, locks, check the wipers and washer reservoir.

If you've got caulking around lamp lenses, that should probably be addressed at some point. The plastic deteriorates and moisture gets inside around the seals which can corrode the connection with the bulb and may blow a fuse. All those exterior lamps are available online and usually for super-cheap, just have to look around for the right style and manufacturer.

Once you get the truck in order, then it's on to the house!!

 

[Eires37]

Just a couple things come to the top of my mind.

Chassis -

Engine oil
Oil filter
Air filter
Fuel filter
Check plug wires
Replace serpentine belt
Inspect water pump for leaks - also inspect hoses
Flush coolant and replace thermostat.
Inspect power steering fluid. If dirty, have it flushed.
Inspect valve cover seals, plenum, and oil pan. for leaks.
Check for any leaks underneath - front cover and rear main seal
Inspect exhaust for rust - it's almost 20 years old. If not in a salt state, the exterior might look fine, but it may be nearly rusted out from the inside from condensation.

Lots of opinions on transmissions. Personally, I'd drain/fill, and drop the pan and replace the filter too. And then do it again within about 10k to get even cleaner fluid since a lot of it will be trapped in the torque converter on the first drain/fill. And then about every 25k after that - or follow the manufacturer's recommendations. But with 36k, that makes me nervous as a matter of course that it may have never been done.

Have the brakes flushed. Also inspect all the hard lines for rust, rubber lines for deterioration. Inspect brake calipers, pistons for leaking at the wheel. Inspect brake linings for adequate pad life. Inspect park brake cable or system and adjust if needed.

Check any serviceable wheel bearings. If easy, repack.

Drain/fill the rear axle. Inspect for any leaks at the cover and axle seals.

Consult the owner's manual for any grease fitting locations on driveline or suspension, grease as needed with the correct grease***

Inspect the shocks for any leaking. How does it ride? If you get a lot of pogo motion going down the road they might be shot.

Tires - you mentioned they are all new. It's worth learning the correct inflation PSI for how heavy your RV is. It involves weighing out the axles on a scale and adjusting accordingly. It's ultimately worth it for both tire longevity and ride.

YOUR GENERATOR should also be gone through. The model number should be on the case. Googling that should find you a manual. I've bought "OE" Green-label Onan parts from this site before. Not the cheapest but great service / response. https://www.cumminsonanstore.com
Coolant flush
Fuel filter, Air filter, oil filter. They can have drive belts too.
Inspect the exhaust for leaks or rust
Check cable connections for corrosion.

Lube the door hinges, hood, locks, check the wipers and washer reservoir.

If you've got caulking around lamp lenses, that should probably be addressed at some point. The plastic deteriorates and moisture gets inside around the seals which can corrode the connection with the bulb and may blow a fuse. All those exterior lamps are available online and usually for super-cheap, just have to look around for the right style and manufacturer.

Once you get the truck in order, then it's on to the house!!

Appreciate the tips. It was sold in Arizona, then imported into BC, Canada in 2015. The underneath is bone dry with no visible leaks. However, I'm taking it to Ford to have them do a more thorough inspection. I replaced the oil/filter with Shell Rotella synthetic & a Fram Synthetic filter. I know Fram gets a bad rap, but this filter seems decent. When changing the generator oil several metal shavings, from machine turning process, came out in the old oil... kinda indicates it was never changed & also how did those shavings get in there? Poor assembly/QC by Cummins/Onan? I was going to use a turkey battery to remove the brake fluid in the reservoir, but realize the old fluid would still be in the lines themselves.

The transmission fluid/filter & rad flush I may leave for Ford as they can replace heater/ rad hoses at that time.

Thx for the feedback so far.

 

[DonTom]

I know Fram gets a bad rap

Only the cheap one and their most expensive. Their "TG" filters are reasonably well built quality filters. Their most expensive one with the Teflon is just a rip-off. Teflon doesn't belong in engines.

See here.

But I don't know about their newer filter designed for synthetic oils. I didn't even know Fram now made such. I normally use K&N as I often find the nut to be handy.

-Don- Auburn, CA

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I can't seem to find mention of an oil filter in the Onan manual though - air filter is clean, will have to source fuel filter.

I believe you are right - no oil filter on the 4 kilowatt Onans.

You don't need Onan brand filters - they are all made for Onan by 3rd parties anyway. Most any auto parts store of Amazon or Ebay has equivalents. The 4 kw Onans with a KY model number use the 149-2457 fuel filter and the BGE model the 149-2333 filter. Or just take the old one into an auto parts store and they can usually match it up.

 

[TheBar]

Many newer cars and trucks do not have transmission dipsticks or any way to add fluid. They are sealed for "life" to keep dirt out. I worked as a mechanic in high school and college. The shop owner would not change transmission fluid or filters unless it was burnt or not shifting right. He said changing fluid is the best way to kill a transmission.

 

[Eires37]

Many newer cars and trucks do not have transmission dipsticks or any way to add fluid. They are sealed for "life" to keep dirt out. I worked as a mechanic in high school and college. The shop owner would not change transmission fluid or filters unless it was burnt or not shifting right. He said changing fluid is the best way to kill a transmission.

Interesting point of view... Ford manual recommended 50,000 miles change under heavy service, or 100,000 Miles in normal service. I was concerned about the tranny fluid condition/moisture content because our RV wasn't driven in several years by previous owners.

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

Another way to look at it is if the transmission fluid isn't bad, then there's little chance of pushing it over the edge with a fluid change. The benefit would be resetting the change interval clock. I'm of the opinion that if you're afraid to change the fluid, then you're living on borrowed time anyway. The clutches and seals are shot and the only thing keeping it from bleeding to death internally is all the crud in the fluid, meanwhile you're chewing through all the friction surfaces. I changed mine at 50K when it was pretty and pink, and will likely be the last time I'll have to worry about it during my ownership. Lets me focus on all the other issues instead...

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[TheBar]

Keep an eye on the fluid for a while. If you see any discoloration then have it changed. Age does not have much to do with it. I have a 1973 Dodge truck I inherited from my uncle in 1982. Most of it's first 82,000 miles it was pulling a 27' Airstream through the Rockies and two trips to Alaska when it was mostly a dirt road. Now it has 214,000 miles and the transmission works fine. The fluid has never been changed.

 

[Panfish Pa]

Hi everyone. We are new members on this forum, and the new first-time owners of a 2003 Ford e450 class c motorhome. It has 36,000miles on it, the previous owner rarely used it and had been sitting for several years.

What would you recommend for maintenance? I have replaced all tires, alternator, Idler, belt tensioner & serpentine belt - the old belt actually failed. I will do oil & filter, transmission fluid, and coolant flush.

Would you guys recommend repacking wheel bearings, rear diff. Fluid, brake fluid etc?

Thanks everyone!

Short or reading all the responses, I too bought a class c similar in age and mileage. I replaced all the brake calipers for good measure, checked the date codes on the tires, inspected and repaired several spots in the roof and various small things. I always think how the weather and age can effect the camper.