How to escape from MH bedroom in case of fire

[jbkoonse]

You are exactly right........ if you don't have the time or breathable air to fight the fire (and you probably wouldn't) you won't have time to do anything but open that window and throw yourself out.

  My old Georgie Boy has a sticker below bedroom window that reads "Fire Escape" but I see no evidence of any. Does it mean simply go out that window or is it pre-stressed so that one could kick out a passage???

 

[JerArdra]

Jbkoonse,

That usually means that...that specific window has a RED colored handle that when opened allows the entire window (window frame and all) to be pushed out so the opening is much larger from which you jump.

JerryF

 

[Jim Dick]

  My old Georgie Boy has a sticker below bedroom window that reads "Fire Escape" but I see no evidence of any. Does it mean simply go out that window or is it pre-stressed so that one could kick out a passage???

If there isn't a handle with which to open the window, look for a red tape running around the window. Pulling that off will release the window. Unfortunately, this is a one time operation. You cannot test it as you won't be able to reinstall the window yourself.

 

[Pierat]

Our motorhome has two windows with a single red handle each, one in front and one in back over the bed in a slideout. Opening the handle just lets the window slide open. The sliding part of the window has a small sticker that says, "EXIT." I've seen nothing to suggest that it swings out, and no red tape around the window. Guess we're out of luck if the window gets bent and won't slide open -- have to kick it out if we can.

 

[Born2Travel]

Jbkoonse,

That usually means that...that specific window has a RED colored handle that when opened allows the entire window (window frame and all) to be pushed out so the opening is much larger from which you jump.

JerryF

Our GB has two latches at the bottom of the bedroom window that we flip. The window is hinged at the top so it opens as a person does their graceful departure. The latches may have been red at one time but...

 

[Pierat]

Macthefireguy suggests making a stick to prop that flip-up window open as you exit. He explains it in his video on exiting.

 

[driftless shifter]

You all know to feel a door for heat, before yanking it open, right? Just saying, in case one wanted to try the bedroom door first.

Bill

 

[Tin man]

Feel with the back of your hand, more sensitive, and if it is hot will noy burn fingers/hand.

 

[DeWat]

This is something I posted in a very similar thread on another forum:

I've always wondered how hard or unsightly would it be just to use bolt on step rails on the outside of the coach. The kind of bars that are about 1 foot long, bolt on on each side, and stand off about 6 inches to a foot. One over the top of the window to help in getting out, then about four or five going down the side. They wouldn't have to go all the way down either... just enough to take the height out of the drop.

 

[driftless shifter]

I think if your rv is on fire you should just flop out the window as fast as you can and roll out of the way. Your partner has to get out too, maybe has to toss a few pets out also. Just get out. worry about sprained ankles, twisted knees and bruises later.

Bill

 

[DeWat]

Macthefireguy suggests making a stick to prop that flip-up window open as you exit. He explains it in his video on exiting.

Why do all of these hinged windows hinge upward anyway ????  Seems to me that a side hinged window would be far easier to manage, especially in an emergency since it's one push and out of the way.  If it's a case of concern about air flow forcing it while traveling down the road for side emergency windows, just place the hinge on the forward part of the window so the opening portion is on the trailing edge.  Seems to me like emergency windows were created with getting out in mind to meet some type of federal standards (like an accident or door jam), but not thinking about having to really GET OUT in a real emergency.  Thanks to Norcold, a great deal who have never even thought about a RV fire are now rightfully planning for one... hopefully, a plan that will never have to be executed.

 

[Wavery]

Why do all of these hinged windows hinge upward anyway ????  Seems to me that a side hinged window would be far easier to manage, especially in an emergency since it's one push and out of the way.  If it's a case of concern about air flow forcing it while traveling down the road for side emergency windows, just place the hinge on the forward part of the window so the opening portion is on the trailing edge.  Seems to me like emergency windows were created with getting out in mind to meet some type of federal standards (like an accident or door jam), but not thinking about having to really GET OUT in a real emergency.  Thanks to Norcold, a great deal who have never even thought about a RV fire are now rightfully planning for one... hopefully, a plan that will never have to be executed.

The manufacturer may be concerned that the escaping person will hang on the window while trying to "Lift" themselves over the edge. If the window frame breaks and the person is injured...... guess who will get sued........

The idea is to open the window and toss your body out, just like if you were escaping from a 2nd story window of your house. The consequenses of surviving the fall are FAR better than the consequences if one stays in the coach or labors trying to get out without being hurt. When (God forbid) that time comes...... the last thing on your mind will be getting hurt from the fall.

It's interesting how one's concerns and perspectives change when the mind kicks into to "Fight or die" mode. The only thing that matters at that exact moment is one's personal survival....... as ugly and callous as it may sound.... pets, spouses and even children don't enter one's consciousness at that exact moment in time. No matter how much one thinks that it would... that just isn't the way the mind works.

 

[JerArdra]

I love this discussion but there are so many comments saying don't worry just fling yourself out...just jump.  It's not that easy!  Physically for me it would be a piece of cake but what about a serious injury such as broken back so you end up wheel chair bound for rest of your life or even death from a broken neck.

Here is the primary solution I opted for and it's called an early warning system.  It's what every fire expert tells us is the #1 fire safety item in your home.  At this point you all know that I installed an automatic fire extinguisher system and my rope to escape out the bedroom window but my most important fire safety feature is the Smoke/Fire detector that is installed inside the refer-compartment next to and behind the refer.  But even that was  was not quite enough so I removed the HORN from the Smoke/Fire detector, added some wire, and brought the horn through the wall into the coach itself.  Now if it went off the horn is closer to the bedroom than the Fire/Smoke detector in the kitchen and it's loud (no longer muffled as it was).

Hopefully, with this early warning we will not have to jump out in a panic.  We may even have time to run foreword past the refer and do an easy exit via the front door or, if need be, we may have time to connect our escape rope.

Of the three fire safety features I installed the most important one was is the  Smoke/Fire detector.  The automatic fire extinguisher and the escape rope are just extras.

My estimate is less that $30 and one days work, maybe two days if you have to slide your refer out 8-12 inches into the isle in order to be able to reach in through the large side-vent on the outside to get to the behind-the-refer area in order to install the Smoke/Fire detector.

JerryF

PS-If you think you might want to install a Fire/Smoke detector see my reply #14 in this thread.  There is a URL there that will lead you to a pictorial narrative of what I did regarding our Fire/SmokeDetector.  I hope you do.

 

[bucks2]

While I would not minimize the value of Jerry's system which seems to be a well thought out and a workable system, I personally would not go to that extreme of a system. I would be concerned about smoke and fire in the living space of my coach. My front smoke detector is 5 feet from the top of my refer, assuming that's where the fire/smoke is coming from into my living space. That alarm should be adequate time for me to wake, put on pants, slip on shoes and start to determine the nature of the problem. It doesnt' take much smoke for the alarm to go off when cooking so I'm confident in it's ability.

Now, if you don't think you can get pants and shoes on and get down the hallway in 15 seconds, practice! Be in the habit of putting your pants in an easy to don place every night, put your slip on shoes in the same spot every night, be ready. I woke up, dressed, in more cumbersome gear than blue jeans and slip ons, went down a much longer hallway and was in the rig and out the door in less than a minute for 31 years. Many others on here have too.

On another note, how many of you have a splitter on your water hookup with a utility garden hose hooked up and ready to use on a regular basis? If I really thought my refer was a fire hazard I'd probably make that a regular practice. I might even find a way to put a pair of leather gloves and a tool to open the refer service panel nearby in an unlocked area for use in case of fire. Wet stuff on the red stuff before the firemen even got out of their beds. 

If you are not confident that you know the dangers of fighting a fire, then please don't use this last suggestion. Serious injury or death could occur if you are near burning objects.

Ken

 

[Tin man]

I have to respond to the above statements.  When the smoke alarm goes off, you will not have time to put on your pants, shoes, reaching for your pets and what ever else you think is important.  As I said earlier you have seconds to get out.

You are talking like it is a sunny afternoon and you are wide awake and plenty of light.  It will be about 1 - 2 AM you will be in your deepest sleep, and when you do wake up to the sound of your detectors you will be confused, in the dark and that loud noise  will be very irritating. 

Running out of the motor home through the smoke and (heat?) is not a option..when you get to the front door THAT IS LOCKED you will have inhaled some toxic (cyanide) smoke and your mind will not function properly. You will fumble with the lock on the door and not too worry because a few more breaths we will find you by the front door after we force the door open..

Think of a plane crash.. 85-90% of plane crashes are survivable, but the people will die from smoke inhalation.  Not from the impact.  Look at the materials in your motor home/trailer.  A lot of plastic, fiberglass, and thin wood.
Just like a interior of a plane.

Have a plan, a meeting place and never never go back in. Drill this into your children never never go back in.  Stay at the meting place and if you get out bang on your neighbors trailer/motor home to wake them up so they can get out and call the fire department with there CELL PHONE.

One last thing, Superman jumps out a window, people hang and drop.



.

 

[bucks2]

Ok, spread doom and gloom, scare people with how terrible things can be. Occasionally they are. But the facts are, that most people get out of residential fires just fine. Most people use the doors to exit the home. You sleep for 8 hours a day and are up and awake for 16 hours, twice as many. Why do you say that the fire will occur at 1-2 am? Scare factor?

As you said earlier "you have seconds to get out". Watch this NFPA video which states it takes about 2 minutes for the space to become untennable AFTER the smoke detector goes off. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JU59Nsv2vg  Watch the sofa burn and put off the horrible gasses, yet you can still see the floor right next to the fire.

I see the deadly cyanide gas scare word. Here is the CDC's description and warnings on cyanide. http://emergency.cdc.gov/agent/cyanide/basics/facts.asp
Since many won't bother going to the site and reading it let me give you a couple of quotes:
"?Cyanide is released from natural substances in some foods and in certain plants such as cassava. Cyanide is contained in cigarette smoke and the combustion products of synthetic materials such as plastics. Combustion products are substances given off when things burn.
?In manufacturing, cyanide is used to make paper, textiles, and plastics. It is present in the chemicals used to develop photographs. Cyanide salts are used in metallurgy for electroplating, metal cleaning, and removing gold from its ore. Cyanide gas is used to exterminate pests and vermin in ships and buildings.
?If accidentally ingested (swallowed), chemicals found in acetonitrile-based products that are used to remove artificial nails can produce cyanide."
and
"?You could be exposed to cyanide by breathing air, drinking water, eating food, or touching soil that contains cyanide.
?Cyanide enters water, soil, or air as a result of both natural processes and industrial activities. In air, cyanide is present mainly as gaseous hydrogen cyanide.
?Smoking cigarettes is probably one of the major sources of cyanide exposure for people who do not work in cyanide-related industries."
and finally
"?Cyanide gas is less dense than air, so it will rise."
Since we've all been taught that the coolest most breathable air is at floor level, and that we should crawl out of a burning room, our ingestion of "deadly" cyanide will be minimal.

I'm sitting in my motorhome. I'm looking for "A lot of plastic, fiberglass, and thin wood." I see paper based wallpaper. I see cherry wood cabinets with metal handles, the thinnest wood I see is the 1/2" plywood on the bottom of the cabinets. I see cloth window valance boxes with some foam inside, I see corian countertops. I see leather covered furniture with foam and other padding underneath. I also remember that firefighters use leather gloves to protect themselves from fire. I'll bet if I looked at the label the foam padding would have been treated with a fire retardant. I see tile and carpet on the floor, but as you know, unless an accelerant has been used the carpet rarely burns in any residence fire. I have some plastic on the computer, plastic on the coffeemaker, light switch surrounds are plastic, and the handles/bars on the day-n-night shades are plastic. I see no fiberglass inside my motorhome. And since we are obviously talking about escaping from a content fire (things inside a building), not one which has progressed into a structure fire (the building/coach itself) the motorhome siding isn't a factor. Your RV may be different, but that's what's in mine.

Everyone needs to try and prevent a fire. Everyone needs to prepare in case of fire. Everyone also needs to practice for fire. But nobody needs to live their life in mortal fear of fire. In case of fire, keep your wits about you and use the best escape method for that particular circumstance. Sometimes it may be going out a window, sometimes it may be crawling to the front door. You may have a fire that is extinguishable or at least can be knocked down while you are escaping, that's why you might keep an extinguisher in your bedroom. Closed doors between you and the fire buy an amazing amount of time in a fire situation. There are a lot of things which can be done to make the fire more survivable. If you buy into the notion that you only have seconds, you may as well give up and lay down to die.

Tin man has his point of view and I have mine. It doesn't hurt a thing to consider both points and decide what is right for you.

Ken

 

[braindead]

This is a fascinating read. 

All too often perceived threats are exaggerated and actual threats ignored.  In particular if the media gets a hold of it, then people really start worrying about things that they shouldn't.  I'm sure there's some human nature/psychological reason behind this, fairly sure I've read a few articles on the subject.  The entire existence of the DHS/TSA is based on this.

Everyone has their comfort zone, and trying to get anyone to move out of that is nearly impossible.  It may be completely irrational, that's just the way it is.

 

[JerArdra]

NOTE:  our REFER compartment smoke/fire detector that would be sounding the alarm is NOT inside the motorhome where we are.  It is behind the refer and that area is walled off from the inside of the MH, that is, until the fire was able to burn through that wall.  This makes our Fire/Smoke detector more of an early warning system!

Also, if our Fire/Smoke detector was first activated by heat it may sound an alarm before there is significant smoke.

Another option, at least in our case, is that maybe the automatic fire extinguisher (fires off at 160 degrees F)would completely or partially put down the fire before it could burn through the wall.

JerryF 

 

[Tin man]

My last comment..

I have taught Fire Prevention for over 30 years.  Fire is doom and gloom.  Fire is not your friend. Some readers might of missed my first comment on page one..it was for education. As a matter of fact every comment was for education. 

What type of smoke detectors do you have? Ionization or Photoelectric? You see the type of fire; smoldering or free burning will activate the detectors 45-65 seconds sooner or later.

( http://www.nfpa.org/categoryList.asp?categoryID=278&URL=Safety%20Information/For%20consumers/Fire%20&%20safety%20equipment/Smoke%20alarms&cookie%5Ftest=1)

This NFPA web page will give you a much better explanation than I can.  Google smoke detectors it will come up.

Read Jim Dicks (I hope I got his name right) comment when the fire broke out.  Page one. 

So if I scared you or your children to respect fire, smoke, and heat, educated you on fire prevention than I have done my job.  Review page one, go over it with your loved ones, practice it; not just in your RV but in your home. 

Check the batteries every year. Daylight savings time is a great reminder. Unplug your auto coffee makers, (they have a nasty habit of burning up at night) remove the frilly cover over your toaster..

Knowledge is power beat the devil.

Jim

 

[whiteva]

After following this thread I have decided to place red led strips at the emergency exits and from BR along the floor/wall to the exit door. By using dimmer on the led strip lights I can control the intensity or preset as desired. We will either crawl to the door following the red light road along the floor or out the emergency exit window.

I also have both types of the best fire detectors mounted in the RV and the fridge box.

Cheers,