Leaking sewer hose

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Wizzy87

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2022
Posts
5
Location
Maple ridge, bc
Hi,

All my valves on the assembly are working fine.
when I connect my bayonet sewer hose to my valve assembly it leaks out Of where they meet.

Is there anything I can do to help stop this without replacing the whole assembly with the two valves on?

thanks for any help



8940CE25-9D67-4F6E-88F5-B8174113A0E9.jpegBAF23B3C-6360-43B2-BAB8-3B971B5EBBFB.jpeg4331D3F8-1C1A-4600-887E-83B8AA904F19.jpeg
 
Chances are that you're missing the o-ring or gasket on the female side of the connection.
Ok so there should be two o-rings?

1 on the 45* sewer hose attachment and 1 on the assembly attached to the motorhome?

what’s that piece with the nibs actually called?
 
Look inside the end of your hose. There should be a large O-Ring in a groove. Sounds like it’s missing.
 
Pretty sure this question has to do with the valves leaking by as shown in the first couple pics. There are gaskets in the valves that can be replaced that will stop the leaking by when the valves are closed. Each one has to be taken apart and replace the gaskets, its best to do both valves at the same time.
 
Pretty sure this question has to do with the valves leaking by as shown in the first couple pics. There are gaskets in the valves that can be replaced that will stop the leaking by when the valves are closed. Each one has to be taken apart and replace the gaskets, its best to do both valves at the same time.
The OP did say when he connects the sewer hose to the valve assembly, it leaks where they meet.
So that’s telling me it’s the hose connection is where it’s leaking.
 
what’s that piece with the nibs actually called?
The "piece with the nibs" is called a bayonet fitting, from where it was first employed to quickly snap fit a bayonet to a rifle.

One side of the fitting has an O-ring, intended to prevent the sort of leak you mentioned. You can see it in the female side of your 45-degree adapter. Your sewer hose connection should have one as well. It's not unusual for the O-ring to fall out or get damaged. You can buy them at places like etrailer.com or better RV supply stores. However, many people just buy a new hose.

It's also not unusual for the waste dump valve itself to leak, allowing some dribble when closed. The valve needs to be disassembled and rebuilt or replaced. Or just live with it.
 
it leaks out Of where they meet.
From your pictures it would seem that the nibs may be very warn and if so, that is the part that may need to be replaced. I have only seen that one time and it was on an RV that was more than 30 years old. The nibs could wear away enough to allow a leak.
called a bayonet fitting, from where it was first employed to quickly snap fit a bayonet to a rifle.
History. The first documented use of this type of fitting (without the name "bayonet") may be by Al-Jazari in the 13th century, who used it to mount candles into his candle-clocks. This type of fitting was later used for soldiers who needed to quickly mount bayonets to the ends of their rifles, hence the name.
 
Assuming by your description that the leak is between the black male Bayonet connector and the clear 45* elbow.

Does it leak when you connect the drain hose directly to the black male fitting?

The connection should take "some" effort to twist it on, making sure it snaps into place fully. They make plastic wrenches to assist with that. It does appear from you second photo that the elbow is seated home so it is possible the o-ring is squashed/deteriorated and as Gary says you can buy replacements.
 
The valve is working per OP.

OP states its the point where the hose couples to the male union. Others have said to check for O rings, which OP says are present (and we assume in good shape).

So, I'm guessing the male union (the part that leads up to the valve) is cracked or the female coupling from the hose (or the the female coupling from the 45) is not being attached tight enough to get past the final detent to latch on securely. As we all know, the hose can be connected and gets tight - however, the connector has to get past that final "bump" to be well latched.

There's not much else going on there...

Screen Shot 2022-10-14 at 9.31.18 PM.png
 
The valve is working per OP.

OP states its the point where the hose couples to the male union. Others have said to check for O rings, which OP says are present (and we assume in good shape).

So, I'm guessing the male union (the part that leads up to the valve) is cracked or the female coupling from the hose (or the the female coupling from the 45) is not being attached tight enough to get past the final detent to latch on securely. As we all know, the hose can be connected and gets tight - however, the connector has to get past that final "bump" to be well latched.

There's not much else going on there...

View attachment 158527
The OP did say and showed us a picture of the o ring on the end of the clear elbow but never said anything about the o ring on the end of the hose. Unless I missed it.
 
The OP did say and showed us a picture of the o ring on the end of the clear elbow but never said anything about the o ring on the end of the hose. Unless I missed it.
Thanks for helping to keep this on track...

.. but, OP's responses in #4 and #6 say there is a gasket on the 45 and on the hose...unless I'm reading it wrong.
 
Thanks for helping to keep this on track...

.. but, OP's responses in #4 and #6 say there is a gasket on the 45 and on the hose...unless I'm reading it wrong.
It looked to me in post #6 it’s a picture of the clear elbow not the end of the hose
 
I'm guessing that since he hasn't been back since 4 hours after the OP, he discovered that the fitting on the hose was missing a gasket. Both his previous pictures were of the clear plastic 45, clearly showing that it's gasket is in place, at least.
 
Thanks for everyone’s response.

I tried the clear 45* fitting on my neighbours trailer it fitted tight.

maybe the bayonet ”nibs” attached to my motorhome may be warn out?

I can turn the 45* attachment all the way on mine and it doesn’t securely fasten to my assembly as good as the neighbours sewer pipe?

without changing the whole assembly is there anything I could do?

I hope this all makes sense.
 
Other than sourcing a thicker o-ring or gasket the right answer is to change the male end.

One could, I imagine, grind off the current nubs, drill appropriate size and location holes and install small screws that are proud of the pipe and act as the lugs... But that would be a goofy looking repair when the replacement end is probably <$20.
 

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