Hello friends! I’m almost done gathering supplies, I’m starting reno when the weather decides to be kind for more than two days lol. That said, I am opting for “5mm wood underlayment” panels for my walls. So out of curiosity, I want to safely walk in my roof for solar panel access. Is the framing and aluminum skin enough to support my weight up there? Do people put wood sheets up there for stability sake? This would add a lot of weight and potentially inhibit proper fitting of my siding. What are you opinions? Thank you all for the help!!
Let’s make a new RV! Now, what are my steps?
- Thread starter Ally1812
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Okay great, thank you! I didn’t even think about the weight! I had heard about the moisture trapping so I appreciate the input! I think I’ll hold off on vapor barrier, if I seal properly I hope to not have any leaks! Though I am planning on sealing my framing pieces with some water resistant stuff. I’d much rather replace the insulation than reframe again.
I’ll opt to stay with wood for the sake of simplicity and my inexperience. Always room to improve in the future. Thank you so much!
Interesting find! Thanks for the link I’ll check it out
Ex-Calif
Well-known member
I can't imagine there is any way the original construction did not have plywood sheathing. The "corrugated" skin alone would be too subject to creasing, wrinkling and denting.
Have you done enough demo to see the underlying structures? I would build it back with something equivalent to the original build especially if you are going to lay the original aluminum skin back down.
Having said that I do not know if campers of that era were designed so that walking on the roof would be supported. I think it's a judgement call based on what you see and how heavy you are.
Not yet, waiting on the weather to be kind! I tend to theorize a bit too much lol. Yes, I will dig in and come back with pertaining questions. I appreciate your advice! Very very helpful. Thank you
Hello friends! I have another question regarding the weight my trailer can handle itself. Where can I find the information of how much the frame, shocks, tires, etc can handle? There are some plates on the outside with the trailer information and such but has been spray painted over. Would the tire info provide any help or would that just say what the tires can handle?
I would also love someone to double check my calculations on what my 1/2 ton can actually handle with my weight, cargo, etc. thank you all so much!
Also any tips on getting minor dents out of aluminum skin without causing more damage/if it’s even worth it other than just cosmetic.
I would also love someone to double check my calculations on what my 1/2 ton can actually handle with my weight, cargo, etc. thank you all so much!
Also any tips on getting minor dents out of aluminum skin without causing more damage/if it’s even worth it other than just cosmetic.
Haulihawgs
Active member
No idea on truck
The aluminum can be taken to a pointless dent repair guy and worked out it won't get perfect but those guys can fix some wicked stuff that I would straighten traditionally and respray which is a lot more work
The aluminum can be taken to a pointless dent repair guy and worked out it won't get perfect but those guys can fix some wicked stuff that I would straighten traditionally and respray which is a lot more work
If you have more sweat than money and are willing to learn, then that is a doable project. You also need to learn to think ooutside the box. BTW, my husband worked in a mobile home factory in MI and they built the frames on the concrete floors. They had the framing pieces painted on the floor and built it there. The wood way cut to side, placed in the position on the floor then stapled together. Our old 1970's Class C was only stapled on one side, so it was likely built the same way. Also, I found that hollow core doors was the cheapest per lineal inch (width) to make an interior wall. the result was it's hard to hear someone talking at one end of the bus when you're in the other end. They also paint up nicely. Floors are laid on the trailer frame. Floor covering is next. Walls are built on top of the floor covering, cabinets & interior walls go in, roof is put on last. I suggest you put a slight curve in the roof to shed rain rather than build another flat roof. This is where you get most of the water damage starting. Although in the case of the old Class C, it was from an overly long screw run thru the face frame of one of the cabinets and thru the roof as well as the lousy roof rack and ladder that leaked.
As for costs, I spent 3 years converting the inside of a 40 ft Blue Bird All America FE school bus (never again). I kept track of costs because we were building out of pocket and I wanted to know how low I could keep things. I used a lot of stuff we already had. After three years, I was closing in on $10K. I used very little "RV" stuff. I build a "residential vehicle". But, other than than putting it into a motorized shell, I would do it again. Over insulate if possible, you won't regret it.
Ernie n Tara
Well-known member
I think you are starting to sound like me; designing and planning is great fun. Doing; not so much! I'd strongly suggest you get started on disassembly, cleanup, and some of the other tasks that are not so much fun. See how you feel after a few nights of dragging in dirty and with minor wounds all over your body.
Don't mean to be mean, Just Sayin!
Ernie
FYI I ultimately found that "doin" just required concrete rewards such as $$$ or strong attaboys. Among other things I owned and operated a garage for seven years! (But I still don't fix my own vehicles)
Don't mean to be mean, Just Sayin!
Ernie
FYI I ultimately found that "doin" just required concrete rewards such as $$$ or strong attaboys. Among other things I owned and operated a garage for seven years! (But I still don't fix my own vehicles)
O1dSoldier
Well-known member
Hi, I'm a new member and don't yet have an RV. I'm in fact finding mode right now.
I love following these kinds of restoration project and have restored a 78 CJ5, 76 Husqvarna dirt bike, 72 Jeep Commando, and am the final cosmetic repair stages of a 6-year journey to bring a 32-foot Bayliner yacht back to life. I've remodeled a couple houses as well. I have no plans to restore an RV though. Repair as needed, sure but I plan to go with something more turnkey.
Anyway, I look forward to watching your progress (post pics) but do keep in mind that in most cases you will invest more money than the project thing is worth, if you sell you likely will only recover a fraction of what you spent bringing it back to life but joy of doing it and getting it done is priceless.
I love following these kinds of restoration project and have restored a 78 CJ5, 76 Husqvarna dirt bike, 72 Jeep Commando, and am the final cosmetic repair stages of a 6-year journey to bring a 32-foot Bayliner yacht back to life. I've remodeled a couple houses as well. I have no plans to restore an RV though. Repair as needed, sure but I plan to go with something more turnkey.
Anyway, I look forward to watching your progress (post pics) but do keep in mind that in most cases you will invest more money than the project thing is worth, if you sell you likely will only recover a fraction of what you spent bringing it back to life but joy of doing it and getting it done is priceless.
