Water Test Kits

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Are all water test kits basically the same for the average consumer? 

I thought about testing the water in my fresh water tank, just to be sure its safe.  I am not the original owner of this RV.

I thought about trying to test for BPA but i dont want to pay $30 for a test kit. 

 
Most tests that would be worth doing involve sending a water sample out to a professional lab, and will generally cost upwards of $100.
 
A proper sanitize will sanitize the entire system!

Drain the Got Water tank.
Fill the fresh water tank, adding ? to ? cup bleach per 20 gal of water.  Using the on board pump, fill the WH and run water through EVERY faucet, hot and cold side, individually, until each puts out water with a strong chlorine odor.  Include the toilet, shower, outside shower, washer, low point drains, etc.  Refill the fresh tank and allow to sit for at least 12 hours.

EVERY PART OF YOUR FRESH WATER SYSTEM IS NOW EXPOSED TO HIGH Cl CONTENT WATER.

When done, drain the HW tank and fresh tank.  Refill and drain fresh tank. Using either shore water or fresh water tank, refill WH and run water out of each faucet as above until the chlorine odor is gone.

A water filter system of some type is highly recommended.  This can be as simple as an in line cartridge to a two or three filter cartridge system to a RO system.  This assures the water in the camper is fit to consume.
 
grashley said:
Fill the fresh water tank, adding ? to ? cup bleach per 20 gal of water.  Using the on board pump, fill the WH and run water through EVERY faucet, hot and cold side, individually, until each puts out water with a strong chlorine odor.  Include the toilet, shower, outside shower, washer, low point drains, etc.  Refill the fresh tank and allow to sit for at least 12 hours.
Click to expand...
Per NFPA 1192 Standard on RVs, use 1/4 cup of bleach per 15 gal of water (50 ppm solution) to fill your RV water tank. Run this chlorinated water through all faucets. Then let it sit for 4 hours. If you want a stronger solution, then use 1/2 cup of bleach per 15 gal of water (100 ppm solution) and let sit 1 hour. In either case, drain and flush your RV water system with fresh water.

A less toxic, but more expensive, alternative is to use Purogene:
https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/H0027.htm

grashley said:
A water filter system of some type is highly recommended.  This can be as simple as an in line cartridge to a two or three filter cartridge system to a RO system.  This assures the water in the camper is fit to consume.
Click to expand...
If you're only camping part time (weekends, etc), then one of those in-line filters is probably ok. However, typically those blue in-line filters are just sediment filters that will keep rocks out of your water system.
 
grashley said:
A proper sanitize will sanitize the entire system!

Drain the Got Water tank.
Fill the fresh water tank, adding ? to ? cup bleach per 20 gal of water. Using the on board pump, fill the WH and run water through EVERY faucet, hot and cold side, individually, until each puts out water with a strong chlorine odor. Include the toilet, shower, outside shower, washer, low point drains, etc. Refill the fresh tank and allow to sit for at least 12 hours.

EVERY PART OF YOUR FRESH WATER SYSTEM IS NOW EXPOSED TO HIGH Cl CONTENT WATER.

When done, drain the HW tank and fresh tank. Refill and drain fresh tank. Using either shore water or fresh water tank, refill WH and run water out of each faucet as above until the chlorine odor is gone.

A water filter system of some type is highly recommended orlando water testing. This can be as simple as an in line cartridge to a two or three filter cartridge system to a RO system. This assures the water in the camper is fit to consume.
Click to expand...
I am currently using the API master test kit, but wondering if there is a better kit out there I should invest in?
 
If I was in doubt about my potable water system, I would just sanitize the system. Or if I was in doubt about the quality of the water source, I'd simply add some chlorine to my fresh tank.

As for the API Master, isn't that for aquariums? Is that why you are testing? Or are you concerned about human consumption? Any of the readily available well water test kits would be suitable for that purpose.
 
Really worthwhile testing requires a lab. Common TDS tests tell you nothing unless you're maintaining a swimming pool. You could also test for sodium chloride and for "hardness," but again, those tell you nothing about safety etc.
 
milon said:
I am currently using the API master test kit,
Click to expand...
Like Gary, I investigated and find that to be for aquariums. If you have one it is probably good but if you wish to test the water you put into your RV, or the water that is in the RV tank, I strongly suggest that you get a Drinking Water Test Kit for Home Tap and Well Water or another one that is similar to it. In all of my years that I have been RVing, I have never used any type of test kit but I have used a whole house water filter on all of the water that goes into our RV via the city connection or into the potable water tank.
 
I do agree with the whole house filter. And with the "What does he wish to test for" question.
Different "Stuff" to test for, Different tests. I don't know of a home kit that tests for Bacteria but I know how to test for a whole lot of different chemicals. (Some tests are not practical for home testing however)
 
So, Milon is the new OP, but same questions........ what are you testing for? What are your concerns.

At the airline I worked for (and this is standard in the industry, we did water quality tests, largely for bacteria. If the tests came back bad, the maintenance scheduling set up the aircraft for a complete sanitize and flush. We removed the filters, then removed and faucet aerators and soaked them in a clorox water mix. the system was serviced with Purogene which is 2% Chlorine Dioxide and add a measured amount of citric acid was added and the mixture was run thru the system, then allowed to soak for a couple of hours, then drained and refilled with fresh water and lines were flushed and tank topped off and done. This is the only method Boeing and Airbus approve for sanitizing aircraft potable water systems.

Charles
61F2ngicBAL._SX342_.jpg
 
I would assume the OP isn't testing his freshwater tank to swim in it, keep gold fish in it, see if it's safe for firefighting, or process uranium to a fissile state. I suspect he wants to test it to determine if it's safe to drink, wash dishes and shower in.
A well water test kit which passes the Bill Nye standard can be had for ~ $25.00 at most any big box retailer.
 
I never drink the water in my tanks when I use it or even the water from the site that provides it. I buy allot of bottled water for the summer and usually have 2 cases per trip. However, I always use a filter at the faucet so my hose doesn't get contaminated or inside my 5th wheel. Do use it for our coffee pot but that boils the water before going into the pot. Wash dishes too with it. Never have had a issue. I do change my filter each month or sometimes after a site that I thought wasn't very good.
 
Bearcatrp said:
Do use it for our coffee pot but that boils the water before going into the pot.
Click to expand...
Most coffee makers heat to somewhere between 195° and 205°. Water needs to reach 212ºF (100ºC) and boil continuously for at least a minute to kill harmful contaminants.

While we have been using some type of water filter for all or the water into our RVs for more than 30 years now, we have always used water from the tank for cook and drinking, as well as most other purposes. We do select the filter for our whole house canister system base upon the water source taste and odor as there is a wide variety of cartridges available to choose from.
 
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