Dometic RM2351 Check Light Dim

[Shutch4251]

Hi Everyone! New(ish) to my 1966 Aristocrat. PO replaced the fridge with a Dometic RM2351 before we bought her. We have had no issues for the past year up to this week. When on AC and Auto or AC and LP mode all works well with no issue. When running on DC, in both Auto and Gas modes the Check light is goes bright and transitions to dim.

I have tried to reset by powering off and restarting, purged gas lines, and cannot seem to find the issue. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Cooper123]

I would recommend you to hire any professional vehicle electrician for that because if it would be a best option.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The fridge draws a lot of battery power in 12vdc mode, probably around 15A-20A continuous, so odds are the dimming indicator is simply low voltage. The fridge control board and panel lights are 12v powered.

Your description of the problem is a bit confusing. You state it runs fine in Auto. AC and LP mode, but then say "on DC, in both Auto and Gas modes the Check light is goes bright and transitions to dim".  If its in Auto or Gas mode, it would not be in DC mode, right? Auto could select DC mode if neither 120v or gas were available, I guess, but manual Gas mode is exclusive with 12vdc mode.

Service manual for your model can be found at http://www.fourwh.com/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf

 

[Old Blevins]

The description of the problem is a bit confusing, but I'm guessing the OP means when he has shore power, regardless of whether it's set to auto or propane, it's fine; when he doesn't, regardless of whether it's set to auto or propane, the Check light is dim.  I believe the RM2351 is a two-way fridge.

Gary's comment on low voltage sounds on target to me.  Do the other 12V systems work normally (are the lights bright, does the water pump work, does the furnace fan run okay when the Check light is dim)?  If not, your battery may be either not getting a charge, or not holding one.  If you have a meter, with the rig unplugged from shore power, check the voltage at your battery terminals.  If it's low (below 12.6 V), plug your rig in and check it again.  If that fixes the voltage reading, your battery is probably due for replacement.  If it doesn't, your converter/charger may be kaput.

With a 1966 rig, if it has the original equipment, it probably doesn't have a good 3-stage battery charger on it.  If you've left it plugged in for any length of time, it may have overcharged (read "cooked") your battery resulting in a low current condition when not plugged in.