LCD TV Installation

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macnkat

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Joined
May 22, 2011
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Beaumont CA
Out with the old, in with the new.  8)

We just bought a 2001 Bounder that had the old tube TV's in it...OK for DVD's, but not much else. I bought a 24" Dynex LCD from Best Buy for $249 and a wall mount bracket for $19. Then to Home Depot for some MDF, 3/4".

Here's what I was dealing with. pic 1

The problem is trying to stick a 25.5" wide TV in a 19" slot, it doesn't work. My first thought was to mount it over the existing hole with a pull away swivel/tilt TV mount, but I didn't like the idea of the TV moving while on the road. So some demo is in order. Remove the trim. pic 2

Then demo the existing brackets so you have a clean slate. pic 3

Mount the bracket to the TV. There are two options here, flush and a slight tilt down, I chose the tilt and it is perfect. pic 4

The TV is 25.5" wide, I cut the MDF to that width and tall enough to cover the hole entirely. pic 5

Attach a scrap piece of 2X4 to the back where you want to mount the bracket so the lag bolts will have something to bit into. pic 6

Mount the bracket and cut a hole for your cables. pic 7

Test fitting, looks great. pic 8

Finished product looks good. I will cover the MDF with a fabric when my wife decides what she wants there, but it looks pretty good as is with the light colored cabinets in the RV. The final step was to attach a appliance strap to the bottom of the set (not shown) and the MDF right behind the TV to keep it in place while driving...a test drive proved very successful. No rattling or squeaks like the old set and now we have HD/digital while we are on the road! pic 9 & 10




 

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Thanks guys. The appliance strap is a little strap that you can get at most RV supply places to hold down a DVD/VCR TV...whatever needs to stay put.

 

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Thanks for the good description of how you conquered this issue. Also, thanks for the photos.

My situation is a little different but I think, by following your lead, I have come up with something that'll work. At least, it does in my mind.

Our set is mounted between the driver and passenger side of the dash. Of course, is sets back into the dash and has molding around it. The only thing holding it in place (which surprise me) was some Velcro across the top and front of the set. I guess the theory is that if something jumps up it'll land in the same place if restricted.

I bought a TV with DVD on the side. So, I can't mount it in the cavity left by the other set. The width is OK but the height is less, of course. So, I think I'll put board behind the old trim piece and mount the TV on a bracket just like you did. I mean, these TVs aren't so deep. Right? I'll still have access to the DVD player on the side. I'm also thinking there will be space below the TV where a small shelf can be made to hold my note pad, sun glasses, etc.

Film at 11. (Not tonight but in a few days).

For my rear TV I plan to take the shroud off the wall and put a board across at the same angle (using some of the pieces I can take from the TV cabinet/shroud) and mount a small TV in the same manner using a bracket. It seems like that should work.

Question -- if you mounted the TV to the bracket and the bracket to the MDF, why did you feel the need for the strap? Belt and suspenders technique? It seems that four bolts into the cabinet, four bolts into the bracket and four bolts on the back of the TV should work.
 
bnsonger47 said:
Question -- if you mounted the TV to the bracket and the bracket to the MDF, why did you feel the need for the strap? Belt and suspenders technique? It seems that four bolts into the cabinet, four bolts into the bracket and four bolts on the back of the TV should work.

Thank you.

Without the strap it will come off the wall a little bit which would rattle, so I did it just for an extra measure of secure and it doesn't budge at all now. 
 
OK. Thanks. Good to know.

I plan to work up some views of what I plan to do and will post them by July 5, 2011.

A lot of us have work to do converting from the old, worthless TV to the new stuff. For those that don't watch TV it's no big deal. Since I'm almost in that league I've not been in a rush. However, when someone steps into the coach the first thing they notice is the old tube-type TV.
 
Good job, but just one word of caution. MDF tends to be a fairly soft fiber board, so beware that your fasteners don't work their way loose with the vibrations going down the road.  Both the screws holding the TV mount and the screws holding the MDF to the cabinet. 

Great idea, the new LCD will be a world of difference. 

Sarge
 
SargeW said:
Good job, but just one word of caution. MDF tends to be a fairly soft fiber board, so beware that your fasteners don't work their way loose with the vibrations going down the road.  Both the screws holding the TV mount and the screws holding the MDF to the cabinet. 

Great idea, the new LCD will be a world of difference. 

Sarge

Thanks Sarge, the lag bolts holding the TV mount are actually lagged into a piece of 2X4 on the back, so no issues there, and I made sure to get as far from the edge as possible to pre-drill the holes for the screws attaching the MDF to the cabinet. Shouldn't be a problem there either, but I'll keep an eye on them.
 
I'm thinkin I might have used plywood or steel. I hate OSB/MDF- perhaps use that MDF as a template for the tough stuff
 
Have you thought of putting a piano hinge on one side with a screen door hook in brass on the other side to keep it from swinging and then you can have a storage behind the TV.
 
Thought of it, and if I ever need the storage I will consider it, but as of now we have a great deal of unused storage as it is.  8)
 
macnkat said:
Thought of it, and if I ever need the storage I will consider it, but as of now we have a great deal of unused storage as it is.  8)
Unused storage-- when we had our previous coach, every nook and cranny was jammed with, what we thought, we would use. Took 2 weeks to unload all that stuff. Now I can say with this newer coach- we have drawers we haven't filled, "YET"- the operative word
 
We're only on our second trip...I have every confidence my DW will fill everything eventually.
 
Ernie Ekberg said:
I'm thinkin I might have used plywood or steel. I hate OSB/MDF- perhaps use that MDF as a template for the tough stuff

Amen to that.  If I ever have too much time and too much $, I'd like to replace all cabinets w/ 1/2" birch plywood (birch core, not pine core): lighter, and ~10x as strong. 

I'm doing a similar project right now, please reply-post if you know how to screw/ bolt something to an outside wall of a MH.  I found a spot in my class C where I know there's some kinda stud behind it, but have no idea whether it's steel/ aluminum/ pine2x2. 

I'm mounting a 32" 20lb  LCD HDTV in the overhead bunk (Class C) during the daytime, then moving it at bedtime.  I'm flipping the removable padded portion of the overhead bunk over, and bolting throught the TV metal stand to the OSB underside of that padded bed-peice.  The padding on the underside will provide some anti-vibration protection, I hope. 

Then for backup, I (my wife) sewed a "seat belt" of 1-1/2 nylon strap that encases the TV on all sides, w/o obscuring the screen, and I'm mounting that in 4 places around the TV, to provide more emergency (wreck) support, and help keep it from tipping/ flopping/ etc.

Problem is, I need to attach to the walls at 1 points, just forward of the forward-most cabinets.  I thought about bolting strap-holders to the cabinets, but while I'm at it, why not go for some extra strength and bolt the strap-holders to the "studs", as the cabinets are low density wimpy "glued sawdust"? 

Any advise on how to attach to the walls of a Class C MH, *or* how I could find out what the camper-frame is build out it?  It's a 4-winds Chateau sport (22') 2004.
 
I just finished a similar project in our 2006 (new to us) Bounder. Took out the 27" CRT TV @120 lbs! I removed the trim (picture frame style) then took some 2x4s and lagged them into the existing TV opening. I found a piece of 1/4" maple plywood and stained and sealed to match the surrounding woodwork (trial and error..mostly error) and mounted that to the 2x4s. Re-installed the trim. I opted to go with a larger TV. 37" LCD. I used a swing out bracket lag bolted to the 2x4s that are behind the 1/4" plywood. The TV won't be mounted as we travel. I'll post some pics when I can.

Edited to add picture link

https://picasaweb.google.com/115836034194494502540/BounderTV?authuser=0&feat=directlink
 
I've considered that for in ours. Taking the LCD down for traveling. My thoughts were laying it down on the bedding in the bunk area.
 
my idea exactly: when we're not using the "overbunk TV". lay it face down on the overhead bunk.  Even at 32". it only weighs 20 lbs, and I'm installing stuff to strap it in place anyway I can secure it with.  I anything less then a rollover, it can't cause us harm.

I'm new to mods (only had our Class C ~1 month) and have no idea what I'm doing.  I'be designed adn build furniture and have a decnt home workshop, but I'm new to RVing. 

2 things I need advice on:
The "installnig stuff" in the 1st paragraph: I'm installing a thin, strong metal plate with a bolt under it to both sides of the overhead bunk, but the wood screws I'm putting in either sink right in or get stuck, hitting something metal.  Any ideas what I'll find if I tear off the trim?  I'm contemplating drilling a 3/32" holes through whatever it is, but not sure what it could lead to.

other thing: I planned to bolt through the end of the forwardmost cabinet for additional straps, with large metal brackets or washers on both sides, but the end of the last cabinet, I found out last night, is double thick and hollow.  I can't tighten an nut-n-bolt on it or it will callapse.  The wall was structure behind it at the same place, but as stated above, I don't know what it is.  I will take some pics now and add on.

Any advice welcome!

2004 four winds chateau sport 22' class C
 

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