Windows 10 Reservation made.......

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Canon printer.. Went to Control Panel,  Devices and printers, and deleted it

Then from the start menu all applications list I went to Canon utilities and did a re-install using the search and network tools.
Works fine now

Cloud storage is optional you do not need to enable it, it will, in theory, have no effect on operations, In practice not enabling it (or disabling it) will reduce your internet bandwith and may improving browsing speed since you will not be "Sharing" files with the cloud storage.

I know of no incidents of cloud accounts being hacked outside of TV shows which are fiction.  Data is generaly encrypted either at your end or at the other end.

"The Cloud" is nothing more than a server farm (Several of them depending on which service you use)  Just a remote hard drive, nothing more.

In my Motor home I have a computer that acts as a file server.. It stores files I do not often need and one that IN need daily.... (It serves this file up to multiple devices)

There are three differences between it and "The Cloud"
1: it is local.. ("The Cloud" is remote)
2: It is much much smaller (though I could increase the capacity very easily and plan to some day)
3: It is not encrypted

Storing some files on "The Cloud" (One Drive or Dropbox) means I can access them any time, anywhere, from any computer so if I leave this computer at home (10 gigs of RAM and have a terabyte of HD)  and need a photo that I stored on the HD and shared with ONE DRIVE or Dropbox on my smart phone (only 64 Gig of "HD") I have it. 

If not shared.. I do not.

RULE #1:  Never put anything on the hard drive you'd not wish to see on the 6:00 evening news.

(Reason: Many have put thousands of their favorite photos on the HD.. Only to find them described (not shown) on the evening news right after the words "Arrested after the police found thousands of photos of"... Of course you do not put THOSE photos on the cloud either.)

 
Molaker said:
I, too, upgraded a couple of days ago.  Everything went well, so far except for one thing which is turning into a PITA.  When my laptop goes to sleep due to time-out or closing the lid for a lengthy period of time, it will NOT wake up.  I have to do a forced shutdown (hold power button down) and restart.  So far nothing seems to help.  I've updated the display driver and all other drivers I can find that will update.  I tried forcing hibernation off, restarting and forcing back on.  I've tried just setting everything I can find that calls for going to sleep to "do nothing", but have trouble.  My laptop is a relatively new HP i3 Pavilion and I upgraded to Windows 10 from 8.1. 


I can usually fix such stuff, but this one has me stumped, so far.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Mystery solved...sorta.  The problem was caused by my having a USB wireless mouse connected.  I removed the mouse transmitter, rebooted and it wake up problem is no more.  The problem is repeatable.  The only thing is, I want to use a wireless mouse (I hate finger pads).

Update: Looks like I may have solved the wake-up problem.  I set "USB Selective Suspend" to "disabled" both on battery and plugged in.  That seems to have done it...at least until it doesn't.
 
Here's a few things to try:

Update your bios.

If you can find a bios setting for USB power on sleep enable it.

Update the wireless mouse driver.  It's highly probable that W10 loaded a generic driver.

Delve into the wireless mouse and/or USB settings and change the power on sleep settings if you can find them.

Try a wired mouse or a different brand of wireless.
 
8Muddypaws said:
Here's a few things to try:

Update your bios.

If you can find a bios setting for USB power on sleep enable it.

Update the wireless mouse driver.  It's highly probable that W10 loaded a generic driver.

Delve into the wireless mouse and/or USB settings and change the power on sleep settings if you can find them.

Try a wired mouse or a different brand of wireless.
Thanks.  See my update above.  Seems to be a rather obscure USB power setting.
 
Ned,
Yes, the "Updates from more than one place" item is a good one to deactivate, especially for those who use metered connections.
 
Anyone figured out how to get a copy of 10 W/O spending a months worth of data allowance (for those of us still at 5 gig per month?) Also is the 8.0 crap I bought by mistake qualified - I know "go look you lazy...."



Ernie
 
You can get an ISO of Windows 10, but it has to be downloaded using the Microsoft Media Creation Tool.  I suggest you find a library or coffee shop to do the download and burning the ISO to a DVD.

Any legitimate version of Windows 7, 8, or 8.1 is eligible for the free upgrade to Windows 10.
 
Molaker.... Interesting, I use a wireless mouse (I can't stand those @Q#$%U@#)$u pads and do not have that problem.. At all.

How to not burn up a month's data?

Visit a Free Wi-Fi Site.. McDonalds and other "gated" places will likely not work cause you may time out too fast but if you can find one not gated (RV park) for a few hours you might get lucky.. I'm going to take Computer #2 to work with me later this week (Forgot we are closed Mondays) and try it there.
 
If you do not want to log into W10, this works.

http://www.howtogeek.com/112919/how-to-make-your-windows-8-computer-logon-automatically/
 
Paul & Ann said:
You can also check if your computer is compatible with Windows 10 by clicking on the 3 lines in the upper left hand corner.  It opens a drop down box and under Getting the Upgrade you can click on the link to check for compatibility. 

Paul

If your machine runs Win 7 or 8, you'll be good for WIN 10, if YOU can afford the download!  ;D
 
Alfa38User said:
You could image the whole drive and then replace it with a new one and re-install the image.  You will have exactly what you have now but... you may have re-validate your copy of Windows though, easily enough done.

Ordinarily, I would not "update" an operating system with a new one without a format, but I will bet that Windows will make it transparent. It would not help their image at all to wipe out all your existing stuff by using the format procedure.

It is a free upgrade, what do you expect ?
If you want to reformat, just go out and buy a new WIN 10 and reinstall of of your crap. ;)
 
Has anyone noticed this...
Using MS browser a Logitech mouse (M705 in my case) the left/right scroll does not work? Updated to latest Logitech setpoint sw, no change. The function works in other apps and browsers.
Even more important, has anyone seen a resolution? I do want to give edge a chance but may stay with firefox.
 
Molaker said:
Well, the chkdsk finished (while I was away) and it found 38 bad sectors.  It may or may not have corrected the problems.  I'm running a backup now and will soon see if it can complete the backup (it could not before).


The next step is to get a new drive and get it up and running.  Then I'll see if the Windows 10 upgrade shows as already reserved or if it will accept another reserve request.

Instead of playing around with old technology like HDD, why not buy a SSD. A solid-state drive (SSD) (also known as a solid-state disk though it contains no actual disk, nor a drive motor to spin a disk) is a solid-state storage device that uses integrated circuit assemblies as memory to store data persistently.
 
My Win10 upgrade did not go well. A few days ago I downloaded the ISO file to a USB drive. I have a 6 month or so old desktop I had set up for my wife who decided she wanted another laptop instead. I did not want to keep any files or settings so I opted for a clean install. I was doing other things at my other desk while it was installing. I noticed that it was at 92 % and went back to what I was doing.
When I checked it was asking for some info I had already given. I told it English again and a couple of other things then it started what appeared to be second installation. I think now that because the USB drive was left in the slot when the installation finished the first time and rebooted, it reran the installation.


When it finished the second install I removed the USB drive and it booted up into Win 10 and a screen came up asking which OS did I want to use.
There were three choices:
1) Win 8.1  2) Windows 10 volume 4 (I think) 3) Windows 10 volume 5 (I think)
I right clicked on 3 to see if it could be deleted or some action taken. When I did that it started up without any options but said that it needed a product key. I had written down the ID number but that is not what it wanted. After some research I found a neat little  program that will retrieve the key. When I used  the retrieved key, Win 10 it said that the number was blocked by their server.


At that point I tried to use a system image I had made before starting the installation to revert back to Win 8.1. It won't accept it though because there is a difference between it and partitions on the computer.


I gave up and called Lenovo and talked to a tech. She agreed to send me a set of recovery disks at no charge  - should be here next Wed. I hope to get Win 8.1 up and running and then try for a new clean Win 10 install. Hopefully the new product key will work at that point.


For anyone interested the key retrieval program is here http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/product_cd_key_viewer.html


Belarc Advisor will also retrieve it.


I don't know for sure if either one will work with a unit that comes with Win 8.1 though. There were some posts talking about the key being in the Bios with 8.1 rather than the registry like Win 8. I had Win 8.1 on the computer but it was an upgrade so the key was in the registry.
In any case it might be a good idea to have it on hand for a clean install. It may not be needed if Win 10 is only installed once though. I suspect when I selected the second Win 10 install the existing key was dedicated to the first install and that is why it is asking for a new one and has blocked the key. It may think it has already been used.

 
The easiest and best way to get a clean install of Windows 10 is to first do the upgrade via Windows Update.  That will activate Windows 10 using your Windows 8 product key.  Then you can do a clean install of Windows 10 from the DVD or USB and it will retain the activation status from the upgrade.  If you try to do a clean install without doing the upgrade, you would need to purchase a Windows 10 license key first.
 
bobsharon said:
Has anyone noticed this...
Using MS browser a Logitech mouse (M705 in my case) the left/right scroll does not work? Updated to latest Logitech setpoint sw, no change. The function works in other apps and browsers.
Even more important, has anyone seen a resolution? I do want to give edge a chance but may stay with firefox.

Try going to Setting...Devices... Mouse
and setup your mouse.

If that does not work use the divide menu and check for a new driver.
 
Well, I scheduled my upgrade for 2300 hours tonight.  I is already downloaded.  I kinda figured that it was downloading itself in pieces when that last few weeks my computer wouldn't shut down at night without adding "new updates".

I guess I will see what it looks like in the morning.
 
What I am curious about is if you can down load Win 10 but not install just yet. Just want to get it while I can. I am still suspicious of MS as to what there ulterior motive is, they don't give anything for free, there has to be something in it for them down the line.
 
tvman44 said:
What I am curious about is if you can down load Win 10 but not install just yet. Just want to get it while I can. I am still suspicious of MS as to what there ulterior motive is, they don't give anything for free, there has to be something in it for them down the line.
Windows was becoming irrelevant. By giving it away for free they are getting rave reviews since it is their best OS yet. After one year they hope to start selling it.
 
Back
Top Bottom