Oct. 10 Day 49 Lansing, Michigan
We arrived at the Capitol and walked thru a dimly lit hallway entrance on the Lower Level that reminded me of a dungeon. The next tour was at 12:30. We watched an interesting film while waiting. At 12:30 we discovered there was a large bus tour, so we decided to wait and go at 1:00. Bad decision! At the 1:00 tour, we were joined by 31 third-graders, and the docent gave us a very simplified tour targeted at 8-year-olds. Most of what I write, I learned reading pamphlets.
Each capitol we've visited has its own uniqueness, and Dean says Lansing is "The Best Restored Capitol." When Michigan was admitted to the Union in 1837, Detroit was the first capitol, with an expiration date of 1847. There was a lot of debate because each legislator wanted it to be in his district. A speculator talked the governor and legislators into naming Lansing Township, while horrified observers, noting that not even a village existed, called it a "howling wilderness." They threw up a quick temporary capitol, and it was called "Michigan, Michigan." (I have to wonder what may have caused such a irrational decision--political corruption???) It has served as Michigan's capital since 1847, but didn't become a city until 1859. They had to wait for the Civil War to end before they could build a better capitol.
In 1872, they started making plans for the capitol. They chose the best materials for the best price, and showed no favoritism to Michigan materials. The final cost was $1.4 million, which was relatively very inexpensive. It was completed in 1879. The exterior is made of Ohio sandstone. "Most of the Capitol's woodwork is inexpensive Michigan pine carefully hand painted (not stained!) to mimic costly walnut. Called 'wood graining', this technique involves applying seven layers of paint, all by hand. Every line of grain is carefully hand painted--even the pores in the wood." (Picture 1) Sometimes they mimicked maple.
None of the hall's "marble" columns were actually marble. "Hand painted to fool the eye, the columns are cast iron, the pilasters are plaster." They painted plaster over bricks so the columns look like marble. They were able to make these "faux" materials for a fraction of the cost of real marble, walnut and maple.
Over the years, the population grew, so they took those rooms with 20' high ceilings, and divided the floors into two 10' high floors, doubling the square footage. By putting in these half floors or "overfloors", they covered up the architecture and painted over decor.
When the building turned 100 years old in 1979, it was obvious that it needed attention. It had been overtaxed, and really needed attention. Plans were made to restore the Senate lobby, and it turned out so well that they decided to restore the whole building in 1987. It would only cost 1/3 as much as building a whole new capitol. Restorers discovered that no two rooms were painted the same. "Over nine acres of hand-painted surfaces were carefully restored to look exactly as they did originally." (Picture 2) They took out the over-flooring and restored the dramatic 20' high ceilings. They installed new heating, cooling and safety systems and modernized all the functioning parts while restoring the decorative parts.
Many of the original materials were gone, so they used reproductions to replace lost antiques. Some original furnishings were returned. (Picture 3)
The original roof was made of tin and leaked. The architect had envisioned the capital having a copper roof, and it finally got one.
Our tour started on the ground floor. It was designed to be storerooms and an armory, so it is plain and unadorned. During the restoration, I'm sure they were tempted to decorate it, but they accurately returned it to its original appearance. They did make a few changes. The lighting fixtures are electric rather than gas. Gray tile that would last was substituted for original strip pine flooring. And, conspicuously absent are the hundreds of spittoons once found throughout the Capitol.
Throughout the Capitol, the walls, ceilings, and floors are built of solid brick. At the time this was built, most buildings were built of wood. This is one of the few capitols we've visited that never burned.
We took the elevator to the First Floor. At one time, all branches of the state government, including the supreme court, legislature, governor, were all housed here. But, now it's offices for the legislative leaders, the ceremonial office of the governor, lieutenant governor, and the legislature still meets here.
We looked up 160 feet to an opening at the top of the inner dome. (Picture 4) The tip top represents the starry sky. Dean says the white is clouds, but I'm not so sure. Just below the eye are eight paintings of muses, sources of inspiration, that were painted on canvas and glued directly to the inner dome. The artist's name, Tommaso Juglaris, was forgotten for over 100 years until it was rediscovered in 1992 because of the restoration. They not only did a physical restoration, but they also restored some of Michigan's history.
Michigan is really proud that they sent over half of the military-age males in the state to save the Union and abolish slavery. They have 160 replicas of the battle flags that were carried by those troops. (Picture 5) The real ones are housed in the Michigan Historical Museum.
I saw two chandeliers that I really enjoyed. They are both were originally gas and have been electrified, computerized, and restored. The one outside the governor's office is elegant. (Picture 6) The other has was a magnificent cast metal chandelier, which features a beautiful elk and shield design. (Picture 7) "It was recently discovered that they were actually cast from a mixture of several OTHER metals" (brass and zinc, but no copper). In most capitols, these would be carved; these were made of stamped steel. This is evidence of how practical they were.
Both chambers of the legislature meet officially on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays for 9 months a year. They earn $89,000/year. The representatives are limited to 6 total years, and the governor and senators are limited to 8 years.
The House of Representatives Chamber seats Democrats on the left and Republicans on the right. As of now, there are 64 Republicans and 46 Democrats. They use a voting board to record votes. "Original 1878 desks were refinished." However, in an apparent contradiction, they don't replace chairs until they wear out. You can see the mismatch. (Picture 8) They copied the authentic period design for the carpet. The ceilings in both houses used to have ruby-and-white hand-etched glass panes representing each state. "These were replaced in the House by plastic and in the Senate by plywood." When they did the restoration, they put in replicas featuring the coats of arms of all 50 states. They also got rid of the dull eggshell white and re-painted it in terra cotta and teals. "In both chambers the solid walnut members' desks...originally cost the enormous sum of $13.65 each! They have done much of the restoration based on photographs since the original chandeliers and carpeting were thrown out over the years. In fact, now all of the lights are computerized to dim somewhat at 6:00 PM and really dim at midnight in order to save money. Total cost of the restoration was $58 million.
There are 38 members of the Senate Chamber. The President of the Senate is the lieutenant governor. The Senate Chamber, which was painted eggshell white, has been repainted in the original vibrant blues and silvers. (Picture 9)
The old Supreme Court Chamber is now used by the Senate Appropriations Committee for hearings and meetings.
On the second floor, we saw the Gallery of Governors (most recent 14 governors) in the Rotunda. GOVERNORS PAY FOR THEIR OWN PORTRAITS! They give these portraits to the state when they leave office. When they "age out", their portrait is put on one of the many bare walls in the Capitol. I really liked this portrait of Governor John Swainson. It looks like the painting is damaged. However, it was painted this was on purpose. He was only 35 when he became governor, and he left office when he was 37. "The painting's unfinished appearance was intended to symbolize Swainson's then-unfinished career." I had to find out about this, since I knew that the governors here have 4-year terms. I learned that they had 2-year terms until 1966.
Nest to Gov. Swainson is the portrait of George Romney. He looks just like Mitt.
The Governor's Office and Parlor are here. (Picture 11) He uses it for press conferences, bill-signing ceremonies, and special occasions. His real office is with the legislators in the big building next door.
The current governor, Rick Snyder, is really popular because he and his Republican really severely modified the "helmet law." You don't have to wear a helmet when riding a motorcycle if you are 21 years old or more, have completed a motorcycle safety class, and have $20,000 medical insurance.
Their first female governor was Snyder's predecessor. Governor Granholm's name brought reactions which peaked my curiosity. I could feel an undercurrent. So, when we had lunch at Bob Evan's, I talked with people there, also. I then read her biography on the Internet. It sounds to me like she did a great job. There is a lot of resentment because "she is a Californian". She grew up in California, but came to Michigan when she graduated from Harvard Law School and married her Michigan-born husband. She has lived here all her adult life. She and her husband got offers to teach at UC Berkeley when she lost the election, and they accepted professorships there. Why shouldn't they? Our waitress said with disdain, "She was a Democrat, wasn't she? And she was from California." If my small sample of 6 is any measure, the Democrats are going to have a tough road to hoe this election in Michigan. (I am politically unbiased this year--I don't like either one of them!)
I love the idea of spending "the people's money" wisely. But, I hate the idea of faux anything in government. Picture 12 is of a "faux copper" (stamped steel) light, which is quite pretty. Why pretend? Just leave it the color of steel, and be honest. The faux marble really doesn't work. For one thing, chips in paint happen as people use the capitol. However, even if it were newly painted, there's no way it looks like marble or granite--only to a blind man. Of all places where honesty is necessary, government and marriage are at the top. I commend their thriftiness, and I think they should have been proud of it. Politics and trickery are a terrible combination and definitely not the example they should have set for future legislators.
Staying at Lansing Cottonwood Campground, $64/2 nights with Good Sam, 50 amps, FHU, non-working WiFi, but available at office, nice people, free fishing