Recent content by garymunson

I would try to avoid any MH that served as a live-in. Almost everything on a motorhome is engineered for less-than-everyday use. The humidity from constant human presence in an MH also does bad things to them. There are plenty of older, inexpensive MHs out there that haven't served as someone's...

I agree with having your Onan carb cleaned. Any small engine shop should be able to do it inexpensively if you don't want to give it a try. Generally, all that happens to them is the jets in the bottom of the fuel bowl gets coated with a varnish-like substance from evaporating gas. That's why...

Stay with two 6V in series. The reason that is done is that if you were to connect 2 12V in parallel, charging becomes problematic as the batteries age. One battery will charge faster shutting down the charger, then the stronger battery will begin discharging into the weaker one. Bad scene all...

I, too, had the fogging issue. Being retired, I decided my time was cheap enough to fix them myself. It's not too bad of a job and the materials aren't very expensive.

I always buy the biggest battery that will correctly fit the tray and the best grade of that size. The little extra cost moving up pays off in peace of mind.

I'm disgusted that RV manufacturers are cheapening up and reverting to the single pane bottom tip out windows. They do not allow near the cross ventilation that sliders do. My opinion is that double pane windows are far more important on motorhomes than with houses since in a motorhome you sleep...

Having had 6 RV's over the years, we have come to prefer a class A for the extra room. For some time my wife didn't think she'd be comfortable driving one but now she's fine with it, just lets me take it if we approach someplace with a lot of traffic. We've always bought used and I now prefer...

I've had good luck so far with the Ebay no-names. At less than $30 if one dies I'm not out much.. Started with one for my RV then put in both of our cars, too. All 3 (each different) have worked well. Maybe I should start buying lotto tickets?

I also had air leaks with my Fleetwood Flair. Mine were where the firewall met the sidewalls. It looked to be a tight fit but the small crack sure let in a lot of cold air. The gap was small enough I just used white caulking in a squeeze tube.

Most Ford trucks have a short piece of rubber hose on one of the transmission lines at the cooler. This is for changing fluid. You remove the hose and attach a length of clear tubing to the cooler end long enough to reach a pan under the driver's window. You start the engine and watch the fluid...

Thought I'd add my experience with fixing the fogged-up double pane windows in my Fleetwood Flair. To start with, I REALLY doubt that any of the manufacturers use any inert gas in RV windows. Even if they do, it is not necessary. The material to use can be found at Amazon by searching for 'super...

Replacing my house batteries cured the problem. Apparently the converter was creating enough load trying to charge the failed batteries that it kept the Intelltec from performing properly. All is well now.

After some more research, I'm suspecting my converter might be the cause of my problems as my batteries will need replacing soon. When I get the RV back (in for Bosch brake recall), I'll open the converter breaker and see if it fixes things! Results to follow.

I have the problem that the Intellitec will work perfectly on shore power but on the genset, neither A/C compressor will start up, the red 'shed' lamps remaining on, whether I'm attempting to run one or both. On shore power, all works as expected, if we are running both A/Cs and start the...